Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About SpaceCase

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Country
    United States
  1. Hello everybody, I haven't posted here in a long while and figured I'd say hi here I used the information in the Bugs, Pests, and Disease Forum to identify and to Safely and Surely Eradicate Hemp Russet Mites. Its been a full year and there's no sight of any mites of any breed at all.
  2. It could of been better (and easier lol) but sometimes ya just gotta be happy with whatcha get. I'll be picking these in the next day or two.
  3. Did you scope those discolored spots on the stem?
  4. Yep, without a total shutdown it seems unlikely to get rid of these shitty little monsters. And even then, if you have to walk through or past any vegetation to get to your indoor grow, its likely one of the little bastards will hitch a ride into your grow rooms. You would need a decontamination chamber with some serious knock down gas to be completely safe, but that doesn't sound real affordable Since I have to walk about 50 yards to my out building which contains my grow rooms I think I am going to sulfur and pyrethrum that stretch of grass in hopes to limit the chance of transfer. The pyrethrum spray I have is time released so treating any areas that are hard to get completely sealed off in the building itself, like entryways, with that every week or so will also help I think / hope lol Probably even a good idea to get some hospital scrubs to put on before entering the grow area, that or do all your indoor gardening naked
  5. Thanks hiwatt , your video link didn't show tho for some reason, but I have watched a few videos on these ugly buggers lol. Man, why on Earth does there have to be something like these guys. Thanks too you too buddy, I'll keep that in mind for the future. I'm not watering them anymore because harvest is soon. I'd probably go somewhere between 100 mg and 315 mg, or maybe start on the low end first lol. That is just shitty about cooking the soil and killing all the good micro bugs with the bad. I like making kelp tea with Dr. Earth kelp meal as a compost starter because it has a bunch of good bacteria like nitrogen and phos. fixers and such. I hope that doesn't have broads or hemp russet mites in it. But I'm pretty sure I got the bugs by storing plants in my garden last summer. Thanks for taking the time to comment The Joker. I think I seen some of those very same questions in hiwatts thread lol, and there good questions to be asked. I got the mites by being an idiot. Storing plants outside by the tomatoes, potatoes, and grapes, of all the places; all of which have there own variety of Eriophyd Mite. For years I never had problems with bugs indoors, and I think I got a little careless about following some of the fundamentals of pest management. Like I said before storing plants outside, and going straight from the outdoor garden to the indoor garden. Smart Stuff, Right? Luckily what I have going now isn't in my primary grow area, what youv'e seen is an over winter garden underneath my living room , I have an out building seperated into two rooms, if I had mites in that building it was damn few because I didn't notice any damage and yields were almost right on. But I'm not taking any chances, I used two gallons of bleach diluted into a 15% mixture and soaked everything, caulked the shit out of everything, hit both rooms with a pyrethrum bomb, and just to be safe, even though I didn't want to do it, I sprayed a thick coat of Avid and followed up with a thick coat of Forbid a few dayas later. (Don't worry, I protected myself with a haz-mat suit, thick gloves and a gas mask, and made sure none of the solution leaked out of the rooms. And I'll never use the same miticide consecutively.) There won't be any plants there for at least another month and the seedlings I have going now haven't showed any stress so I'm kind of holding my breath hoping for the best until it is warm enough to move everything. Do you think I should do a sulfur treatment on the rooms as well? I've heard that slufur burns are hard on electronics becuase itl eaves a coat on the boards inside and causes them to fail prematurely so I think I would use a spray. And then I'll have to be more careful not to track pests into my rooms from the garden or the yard now that I know that they are around if thats possible lol And follow up with at least a couple times a week with an intergrated pest mangement system switching between neem oil, OG biowar, and essentria IC 3. I really don't want to use Avid or Forbid on a plant but I might dunk the seedlings once right before they go to make sure I start as clean as possible and then just hope for the best and be careful to be as clean as possible. I got almost, maybe all, of these ideas from reading the forums on OpenGrow and especially from hiwatt and The Joker. Thanks again guys!
  6. Nice looking flowers and plants hiwatt!. Lots of nice chunky buds for a short plant! Im glad to see your IPM worked.. Hiwatt and the Joker, thank you very much, your ideas saved my garden. Very nice blend of organic control and chemical eradication ideas here. You guys are Fucking Awesome lol
  7. I make my own soil with composted cowshit, peat moss, wormshit, sand, perlite, and a little soil from the woods. I definitely could be picking this pest up from one or all of the additives I have been using. I guess I have even more work to do sterlizing soil to make sure I am not bothered by this pest next grow. I've read about that aspirin tip before but have never tried it. Do have some sort of mixing ratio that you use like mg per gal or something?
  8. I'm thinking the same thing about the premature flowering Hatter. And it doesn't seem to take a very big infestation for these little assholes to really hurt your yields. I have never seen an infestation on my plants like some of the infestations other folks on the cannabis forums have been talking about. I haven't seen them gathering in rust colored colonies on leaf stems or anywhere else as a matter of fact. There are never more than around 10 per square inch, yet all the flowers are noticeably smaller. I just checked under my fancy microscope (I was using a cheap handheld before), a lot of dead mite bodies which is good, but there are still enough of them moving around to piss me off a little lol. At least I'll get something out of this batch, heres some pics of after 38 days of flowering. A lot of the top buds are fucking ridiculously small and pistils are turning way to early, but they are frosting out quite nicely. From what I've read it doesn't matter what kind of plant tissue it is, pistils, trichomes, leafs, stems; hemp russets eat it all. I really hope there wrong about the trichomes One of the major bummers about these fuckers is they are so small and that they like to get down deep into bud crevices making it almost impossible to get them with regular spraying methods. I don't know where I read it it but on one of the cannabis forums a guy was talking about using an atomizer after tenting the garden with plastic and letting the plants sit in the tent for 12 hours. Sounds like a good way to get mold but it sounds liked it would definetley get the shit where you want it to go. Just an idea.
  9. Probably not going to use sulfur this time, and I appreciate the work ya'll did to provide information. Something that caught my eye while I was trying to figure out which products I want to use for the next couple weeks was the FAQs on the Flying Skulls website. If you can trust what they say, there just might be a non toxic way to severely curtail broad, russet, and claymen mite damage. The following is from the Flying Skulls website: "New methods of eradicating Russet, Cyclamen or Broad mites. Flying Skull is constantly looking into new and creative ways to improve your success in pest management. Nuke em has been found effective in treating Broad mites but now having said that, it is important to realize that that these little guys are really tough to kill because you have to completely cover them with spray. You will need three applications of Nuke em if you are in infestation stage, they can be on the same day as long as you let each application dry before you apply the next spray. Nuke em should used as a preventative or maintenance spray. A weekly application of the standard strength really works well for our commercial and greenhouse growers. In some reports coming from our outdoor growers, maintenance sprays at 0.5 ounces to 31.5 ounces of water applied weekly kept the growers from having powdery mildew in areas that were prone to attack. 0.5 ounces of Nuke em to 31.5 ounces of water is also a good deterrent for broad mites. One gallon of nuke em at 0.5 ounces of concentrate to 31 ounces of water will yield 64 gallons of ready to use spray at about $2.75 per gallon. If the 0.5 to 31.5 rations is not working use a stronger strength. One of the things that we have learned is Nuke em is quite effective in breaching the exoskeleton of the Broad mite. Once the exoskeleton has been breached, we can deliver bacteria and fungi into the wound before the Broad mite can repair itself. Once the bacteria enters into the vascular system it quickly colonizes and the Broad mite dies an awful death. Flying Skull is currently experimenting with specific bacteria and fungi to be part two of a perfect two part knock out punch, specifically blended for Broad mites. It will be on the market in a few months time and available from your local distributor. Thanks to all of our customers who have helped us with suggestions and BETA testing to eliminate Broad mites safely without harm to the sick and elderly people among us." - http://flyingskull.net If what they say is true about penetrating the exoskeleton and allowing bact. and fungi to enter their system, Flying Skull Nuke 'em used before OG Biowar Foilar might be the ticket. Two days ago I followed the directions on the Flying Skulls website for an infestation: 2 oz Nuke 'em per 30 oz.water, sprayed it all over, both under leaves and over buds, let dry and repeat twice with HID off and I haven't noticed any negative signs yet. I'm having a hell of a time finding any mites now so it must have worked My biggest concern now is that a lot of the lower bud pistils have turned orange/brown but that was starting to happen before the Nuke 'em application. Also, a lot of the trichomes on these buds have started to turn milky white so maybe the plant is just ripening early. I'll post some pics on this reply or another but I have to restart my PC first bcuz I can't import pictures at the moment.
  10. Thanks for the idea, 35 days into flowering a sulfur spray seems like it would leave a bad taste on the buds. Have you tried it so late into the cycle?
  11. I don't see any deformations as of yet, the only thing I am noticing is that a lot of the pistils on the lower flowers are turning brown prematurely, and some of the top flowers are showing the same signs. Also, pistil production is seemingly standing still. I scoped a couple of these early browning buds yesterday and sure enough, hemp russets had invaded them. I then I mixed up a batch of Captain Jacks Dead Bug (active ingredient Spinosad) as per the instructions and sprayed a couple of the buds with the browning pistils. Today when I scoped the same buds, the little mfers were still alive, giving me the finger and laughing at me. Now I am unsure what to do. Possibly a hiwatt garlic special for the little guys. Maybe some Mighty Wash or Flying Skull Nuke 'em. Maybe all three. Fuckers are getting me a little worried now, I have 21 days left which is starting to seem like an eternity. Ill post again to see if my next treatment of choice has any effect, positive or negative.
  12. The bug "expert" told me they were thrips LMFAO Ill look for deformations and post some pics if I see any hiwatt.
  • Create New...