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DonQuichotte

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About DonQuichotte

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  1. DonQuichotte

    GK vs BB

    Thanks for your answer Wonton. Verry interesting answer and I am verry interested to see if the "add on's" will work out as hoped for. I'll be keeping an eye on ya. And thanks for doing this test btw, I apreciate it.
  2. DonQuichotte

    GK vs BB

    yups, One question comming up Wonton. At first I was totally happy about this thread when I noticed that you were about to compare BB with GK But now I see that you use totally different products from BB as that I use to do. Years ago, trough matter of coincidence I ended up feeding the 4 bottle combination from BB ; Bio grow, Bio bloom, Alg-a-mic and Topmax. It came with a chart that prooved totally useless when it came to the right Ec levels, but at least it seemed to be correct on trying to get the different ratio's at different times right. ( wich I eventually simplified by giving same ratio's at all times since there were no seemingly big consequences.) On my terms of Ec levels I grow buds that are bigger then anyone else with these BB products, So now I am mostly curious why you choose to invest In almost all the Bio Bizz products that I never even tested? Or in short: Why did you choose the BB products that you happened to choose?
  3. I don't see much white pistills left on that one Stonie, and since it already relies on its leafes to extract nutrition I reckon it won't have much power left to continue doing some more foxtailing.
  4. It is supposed to go hand in hand phil, look at the 3e pic from above. That one will be ready for chop already now.
  5. Donno about that 9 days thingy Stonie. They most definatly could handle some more time still. > Wich is ofcourse a good thing for the sheer amount of bud that you're gonna pull, but a bad thing for the patience you still got to endure. He he. Nicely continue to feed clean water still untill the end, and you are right on that the leafes should turn more yellowish first before it will be time to chop em down. I'd say that this grow will be more productive as the previous one, but with a little less frequent feed they would have got even bigger as they are already. This is what they call: "the dialing in" of your strain. But I'm positively sure that by now, also YOU will be capable of telling by looking at the colour of the leafes when too much (oft) is to much (oft), right? Sure you want to have nice deep green shiny leafes, but just not THIS dark. If this was the road to perfection, then now your other grow that you are simultaniously running will become the ultimate NIRVANA with no more roads to travel I believe. . Job well done Stonie. I bet you learned a lot, and by now I'm sure you will be able doing it again with eyes blind folded and with hands tied to your back. Concrats man.
  6. Dry weight will be verry close to 200 gr indeed, but just and just not. Tho with all experience you have now... and assuming you would have the same setup and ingredients next time too... I will be anticipating your next harvest to be somewhere between 250 and 300 gram. For Fucking sure man ! Ps. If you want to make it yourselves real easy next time> shop for some prime grade earth worm castings and add some 30 to 40 % of it to the total mix. I am sure shackzilla can handle it.
  7. Fans aimed directly at the buds in a monotonous motion is pretty much never a good idea. Always better to let the airflow swing in an oscillating motion while aiming the most intense airflow a bit over the buds. No oscillating fans AT ALL will cause still standing air inbetween buds, inviting BRD for sure. BRD spores are everywhere already anyways, so to provide healthy circumstances for your plants to cope with them is the most efficient deterent/precaution.
  8. Right, well understood stoney, no need to be anxious tho, cuzz there will always remain some bud moldfree, no matter how wild it spreads, hehe. This question I did not understand well, could you please rephrase it? > But what Mg are you talking about ,its most of the time and and with addin??
  9. As a matter of fact it may be a Mg LOCKOUT at rootslevel that's resulting in a deficiency higher up. There may be too many salts interfering with the Mg uptake just, so hence the tip to quit feeding and let your microbial life work on the "clean up" first. In the stage you are at right now, a Mg lockout won't show out in the leafes any longer but certainly affects your fast growing buds that are beeing prone to it when not supplied as supposed to be. I've seen this happening a lot on peat based mediums. Mg acts like building blocks in an exo sceleton. > Without it there will be weak spots in your "bud cell tissue" enabling spores to grab a hold and settle themselves in, causing bud rot. It is as if the plant all of a sudden decides to only cut off SOME parts of it's bud from the Mg supply, but usually not it's most essential parts. Hence, budrot is usually beeing detected higher up on the bud, since the upperpart of the bud has the lowest priority for the plant to mature. The calyxes (imaginary seeds) down below will get priority to ripen first, so that part will usually become secured off immediatly with plenty of Mg, but the part thats mostly starting some 10 cm below the upper rim of the bud appears verry prone to it, because of the more "prioritised" parts down below "intercepting" it all. ________________________________________________________________________________ I mentioned to administre the solution from under, hence I thought it to be clear it not to be administered along the blumat lines. Or is it that you have no option to water your tubs from under in this new setup? in that case you could just administer it by hand and from above ofcourse. ________________________________________________________________________________ @ Ink, Quote: @DonQuichotte dude make a nice interesting read, didn't think to disolve sannie tabs to buffer the soil , mg problems,,, etc. best wishes. End quote. Thanks mate. just trying to do my best to get Stonie back on track again. Normally I would advice to administer calmag, magnesium tabs or even wood ash for this purpose, but ever since I figured out what goes into buffertabs I feel that that would be the safer choise to go about in Stonies case.
  10. I am with the others, but also would like to add that you should get your humidity at around 50% Rh. That just happens to be the optimal humidity level for your plants, enabling them to continue to evaporise moist most optimally. Too low a humidity will cause them to close up their stomata, and too high a humidity will ofcourse make it more difficult for them to release surplus moist too. Your intuition on what nutes to use best resonates fairly well with me. Not that I mean to shove myself up Sannie's ass, but if you use Sannies products I suggest to stick to just his products only and to not add anything else. It could only disrupt his system negatively. ( > As this is exactly what is happening atm. > better not to feed anything for a while now untill there is progress to see again... But do continue to administer BAC's microbial life still, but not the nutes yet ) Since your buds are develloping this exponentially fast, they might be in dire need of minerals like Mg. (often the first cause of top/bud rot is Mg deficiency related) Try dissolving one of his tablets in 30 to 40 liters of water so the active ingredients will be faster acting down at roots level. Administre this feed from under to accomplish it's purpose. Try keeping your tensio readings between 150 mb to 180 mb. No need to worry either when it hits the 200 mb every once a while. (These numbers are especially to respect down at roots level. Higher up the mb indications might fluctuate some more a bit.)
  11. Looking real promising all Stonie, and this grow will most certainly exceed the previous grow. Tho carefull with those nutes a bit now please. I can tell from the texture and colour of your leafes that you are feeding them to the max now. With a bit more time inbetween feeding you could stick to the same dosage as you've been doing this far.
  12. Those buds that are now shaping your upper canopy are not gonna grow bigger anylonger, but the immature buds downbelow them most certainly will. You could opt for cutting out the buds that are situated in the upper layer of your canopy. Cut em all out at an even level I'd say, to allow the light to shine on your lower buddies. That way I am with weedstiti who says that you could get some 5 % more outa it, but count with an extended flowering time of at least 3 weeks to actually get this 5% done. @ Weedstiti, yes they would have grown still a bit, if it weren't for the condition of the roots that have been too wet and caused the upper buds to stunt. Some individual white pistills in the upper buds would still allow their calyxes to mature, adding maybe up to not even one promile of it's total weight. The plants however are in no shape to be able to pull off some foxtailing. (I reckon that was the thing you expected them to do, but for that they need to be in tip-top shape first.) Under more healthy conditions they sure would have went a long way still.
  13. I donno about Final solution cuzz I never worked with it, but yes, it is definatly time to stop giving the Bac-bloom, and continue doing the Bacto as usually.
  14. Damn interesting Stonie. Thanks for the trouble, there's lots to learn now. Too bad that there is a difference in angle when the pics were token, but what I can see is that this time you got more stretch inbetween internodes and that buds are slightly bigger already. That little headstart you got now will largely show out later when they grow into full maturity. This is the stage in wich they will double up their number of calyxes, so on a large "base" (the bud)... there will be lots of "foothold" for them to expand. Like if you think in terms of husbandry > from a large herd you can take lots of animals by the end of season whereas from a small herd you can only take a little bit. (whereas the number of replicating individual members in the herd are comparitive to the number of your individual calyxes in that context.) I donno if you can put those lamps higher still a bit, but at some point when they are bigger they are not gonna like it to be this close to the lamps all the time. Maybe got to bend them down already, wich they are totally gonna like. Get them main cola's to grow horizontal I'd say, but the ones at the edges and in the middle inbetween 2 lamps can be upright as they are. It is just the 60 cm sphere ( half circle) straight underneath the lamps that they don't like to be in. It's the ultra red radiation in combination with a too low humidity that impacts a half spherical area of about 50 to 60 cm underneath your 600's , and that's a type of heat and drought that you cannot just blow away with a fan
  15. Yups, I guess that's how we all had to learn how to do it right. But ok, nothing's lost and I am more then confident that next time things will turn out better for ya. You seem to be dedicated enough to wanna get this done correctly, and besides, that tensio meter will show you the way next time.
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