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Hempyfan last won the day on November 4 2019

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About Hempyfan

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    Grow Teacher

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    I have seen God! They never tell you what to do after that. So I vape on and I vape on..
    Jah Bless!

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  1. The end answer is a lack of carbon but the reasons for that cause can be many with some debate. Most often I believe this happens from a bit too high temperatures and potentially a lack of rest of the plant combined with the age of the plant. The resting part I have seen heavily debated and in my experience I have no affirmed opinion. I do believe it is good for a plant to rest but I have seen virtually no difference in plants with a short vegetative stage before flowering once they are mature to flower. With that said, I have personally seen plants grown with ideal environments and ideal lighting and nutrition at the same time and have had hollow and others have regular stems. I have not seen any quality difference. My personal view is that it can be a variety or all of the following; stress, nutritional aspects, too weak lighting, to the removal of too many leaves at critical stages of plant development when it is bulding with carbon (stems and such) it can create this aspect. This tends to be more with hydroponic plants as they can absorb faster than soil styled medias. Also, when plants are stressed and need carbon for elsewhere, it can use the pith, regular stems, as a source. Sort of like a fat in our bodies but for use in building materials rather than energy production like us. With detailed records of environment, nutrition, ph, in and outs as applicable it may be possible to determine better management practices. overall in this regard for the average grower. Is not a big deal if the plant is healthy and happy otherwise.
  2. @Damar. Things will turn around. During times like this, I say thank you may I have another. This is not the time to be depressed or negative. There is time for that later. Things will work out. Maybe not in the manner we would like but it will work out. Just do not try to force an issue. The oil job is likely not going to come back fast.
  3. That song summertime was my wife's favorite song. Thank you for the good thoughts, I needed that!
  4. Seems to me your looking for the old skunks before the Europeans started playing with them. It don't exist in regular easy to by form but I am sure in some corner somewhere someone is holding on to plants of yester years. I once ran into an LSD plant in Maine like that once. Looked nothing favorable but when you hit it. Wow! About a decade ago people put lots of work into recreating that old skunk but not quite the same. I think the fact it was more dangerous to do back then, just made it remember more. That said, I knew 1 to 2 hitter quitters all my life and I ain't young. I remember in Europe my favorite strains was citral and skunk or a super skunk crossed with whatever skunk # blah blah. Nothing came to the smell of the old American skunk. But I would not say they were bad or anything negative. I recall when White Widow came out and changed my life! Oh the good old days! Best of luck in your search. I wish I had a direction on an old school skunk for you.
  5. I got a cold, I wish I had a slice of one of those now lol. Fool on the Hill, outstanding work! I enjoy it!
  6. Hempyfan

    Seed advice

    If no other pollen than from fem hermi, you will get a fem. You will also carry the hermi but I say same as Fool on the Hill. If only a few seeds, all good. Just try to keep stress on the plant down and I would not really expect any worrying issues.
  7. The styles of growing are best suited depending on your genetics, your environment, setup, and your operation/need. I recommend learning both systems. Both have pluses and minuses. Whatever style is used that best suits the grower, that is the much better style. So what is ideal for one grower may not be the same for another depending on those aspects and there are other aspects too that can make one style more suited for another such as disabilities, time that can be spent on the plants, etc.
  8. Oh snap, I see your growing in Hempy buckets in only perlite. I love it. I grew my biggest plants with them. I actually saw a table break from the weight. You are doing well. Growing in all perlite is unforgiving but damn is it fun. Due to the high air to root ratio, you will have bigger uptake but be cautious in increasing nutrients. I wish I noticed this earlier. Just so busy I have little free time right now. Good problems to have! My name is in honor of Hempy, who is a guy who championed the hempy bucket method decade-plus ago. See those tips, that is caused by higher heat, higher humidity that negatively affects your stomata with high uptake and thus tip burn. Could be in part also due to lower K, Potassium. This is possible due to the P, Phosphorous levels and thus the potassium might of been used up too but not to an extreme point. Tip burn is not a major thing but a sign of your environment but in your case. I suspect your hempy res might need to be a bit bigger or more frequent to sooner in the day watering time frame. Your EC will be all over the place. What is it before you feed? Anyways, check this if you can. Your EC before watering, EC in, EC out. Keep those records and adjust accordingly. Hempy buckets in perlite taught me probably the most in growing. It was my most fun.
  9. Working this in while waiting on uber. The environment is number one factor. Lighting, media and nutrition are next. In your case they all interweave a bit to explain your issue. I am going with a bit high too temps, uptake a bit high with higher then desired humidity but I dont think consistently so maybe it was spikes for a week or so like that than duration. If your keeping track of your temp/humidity/nutrition or what have you records determine the period in time of the plant growth so you can better account next time. The plant wont yield like you want but wont suck either. You may notice a bit more leaf in the buds as it tries to account for loss of viable leaf for energy. By taking into account next time you can harden those up and make a bit bigger likely.
  10. Looks good. Bump p on the smaller one a bit too.
  11. I will get back to this but very busy busy. Its a P issue and I see mostly. Check out https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/phosphorus-deficiency I will spend a bit of time when I can here a bit. If you dont hear from me. Say hey hey, just busy but I will help best I can.
  12. I see no issues at grocery stores in the area live in. I make the energy that sends groceries to many many grocery stores on the east coast area. there are no shortages on our end. Never was. In times when we were short people, the store was contacted and asked to lower their orders so that we could meet the shipping deadline but they chose what they took off, not us. A vast many of the issues are people not going to work and not real shortages. You have many people who are taking advantage of the situation but this is what happens when you pay the lower wages to these jobs. Some kind of benefit needs to come to these workers. I am paid well so I cannot complain but most "essential" employees in the food industry are paid low and we all see how much they risk. In the end, it will be a shut up and get back to work for most. Next year this time I do think we will be talking about the economic booms. It will turn around but we need a song for all the lost people, businesses, and properties that are gone or now owned by others. The meat processors might be a bad bump. Some big major ones shut down for a minute or two but I think they are opened back up. Not sure what to expect on that one. For meat, that is like us shutting down. You will go hungry and wipe again with unconventional things lol. I think more online shopping is going to be a bigger choice for more people than before the corona.
  13. To effectively kill fungus you need to be very close to the fungus and move extremely slow if this is the UV light used for sanitizing and sterilizing some areas such as surgical equipment and similar sensitive tools etc. I do like the idea of them being used at weak infection points. I like this discussion.
  14. I hope this helps. I have one major suggestion, depending on how bad it is, just take it as a learning experience as the crop is surely going to be reduced. However, not the end of the world and does not mean your end product will suck. I just say to appreciate what you have at the end of it by expecting the worse. This makes it less harsh, at least in my mind. I will need to know: the current status of the infestation such as early, middle and heavy populations. Growth stage of plants, veg, transition, early flower, mid flower, later flower. State of plants, little visible damage, moderate damage, heavy damage. Your environment for day and night. What have you tried already and separately what have you tried in the previous grows? I suggest you take the direction of understanding the pest's life cycle and infestation stages, how to effectively go after the pests in each stage and how to proactively work against future infestations. This site in link is the best I have seen for pests information. Take a look at this information, come up with a plan with the products you can get or have access too and I am sure many here will give input on. Pasted from: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/how-to-get-rid-of-spider-mites#proven-spider-mite-remedies Click on that link to see below but also the whole writing on spider mites. It is excellent. How To Get Rid of a Spider Mite Infestation Step 1: Kill Them! Step 2: Follow Up Again in 2-3 Days Step 3: Repeat if Necessary Step 4: Protect Your Plants Step 1: Kill Every Spider Mite You Can Kill the spider mites! Here’s a list of proven spider mite remedies for cannabis plants (from home remedies to organic repellents to serious chemical pesticides)… Before your first treatment…. Cut down their numbers! Control the heat Have lots of air blowing over the plants and top of growing medium Spray spider mites off the plants if you can Spider mites like the heat and hate a windy environment. A cool breezy grow space won’t get rid of spider mites, but it makes it harder for them to reproduce so your other control methods are more effective. If it’s possible for you to bring your plants outside or somewhere safe, you might even consider spraying off as many spider mites as you can, to get their numbers down before you start your main treatments. Get a fan blowing over the plants and top of growing medium Not only do plants grow better with a breeze, great air circulation is great for pest prevention. Spider mites love heat and stagnant, non-moving air. They can’t mate in windy conditions so a strong fan can help keep the infestation from getting worse. A breeze also helps pest treatments go better because fans help spray treatments dry on the plant. Azamax is a time-tested way to rid your grow room of spider mites. Spray plants 15 minutes before lights out, making sure to drench the foliage under the leaves as well as the top of your soil. Use a fan to blow on your leaves to help things dry. Treat your room more than once, even if you believe the spider mites are gone. You can also add small amounts of Azamax when watering your plants, as it will not hurt your roots but will kill spider mites in the soil. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly. Spinosad Products (safe & organic) – Spinosad products are organic and unlike many other spider mite pesticides, completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Unlike many insecticides, you can spray spinosad heavily on leaves and roots with basically no negative effects. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill spider mites on contact, but can also be used when watering plants to systematically kill spider mites via the roots. Spinosad can also be effective at fighting caterpillars, thrips, and many other marijuana pests. Can be used both as a topical spray like Azamax and Mighty Wash, and can also be used directly at the roots. Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills spider mites via ingestion or contact by affecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to spider mites, but is less toxic to many beneficial arthropods. Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly. Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad Essentria IC3 (organic) Essentria IC3 Insecticide is a mix of various horticultural oils which are organic and safe for humans. It is often marketed as a “bed bug killer” but it can be effective against many bugs, including spider mties, when the plants are treated regularly. Unfortunately, it only stays effective on the plant for about 8-12 hours so you will want to either apply this daily or (better idea) combine with other options. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves evenly. Insecticidal soaps Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps weaken the outer shell of spider mites but are safe for humans and don’t leave much of a residue. With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds so it doesn’t affect the taste/smell! Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout Spray This spray is hard on spider mites, but the main ingredient Pyrethrum can also be hard on plants, especially in tight spaces without much ventilation, so keep it as a last resort if possible. Use with extreme care around humans as the ingredients can be toxic. Never use Pyrethrum-based products on your plants while your grow lights are on as it can burn your plants. Avoid using Pyrethrum products on young or sensitive plants as they can get burned even when the lights are left off. Do cover your grow lights and vents when bombing your plants with Pyrethrum and make sure you give the area at least 24 hours to air out before you try to breathe the air. This spray can work well for a couple of plants, but you’ll want a Pyrethrum fogger if you have a lot of plants to treat. Outdoors, Pyrethrum can kill beneficial insects too, so keep that in mind if you’re using natural predators to control pests (like ladybugs). All that being said, this spray will work to get rid of most spider mites, and it kills them on contact. Pyrethrum kills spider mites but not their eggs, so this product usually needs to be used 2-4 times (once every 2-3 days) to stop the breeding cycle and get rid of the toughest infestations. NoPest Strips These emit a vapor that kills spider mites but do NOT use these if you will be breathing air from your grow room as the vapor they give off is toxic to humans and other mammals. These are only suitable if you’re growing somewhere that is NOT your living space but can be an effective way to get rid of spider mites. Floramite – Strong stuff with harsh chemicals, incredibly expensive, but it can often do the job when everything else fails. Use as directed and only as a last resort! Bleach solution (1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of 95°F, pH balanced, water in a spray bottle or mister) – make sure to clean all surfaces of your room, and bleach them too if possible. Alcohol and Water mixed together (9 parts water to 1 part alcohol) will also kill the bugs on contact and shouldn’t hurt the plant. You will want to use a spray bottle or mister. SM-90 mixed with water (1 part SM-90 to 5 parts water) kills spider mites on contact and is organic (it even smells good!). You will need a mister to get nice even coverage on all the leaves with SM-90. Note: SM-90 has been temporarily discontinued. See this article for more info Neem Oil works in a similar way to SM-90, though Neem oil doesn’t smell as nice and will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants. There’s some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! Just as with SM-90, you will need a mister to get all the leaves evenly, especially since neem oil and water will separate easily. Insect predators – there are also insect predators such as ladybugs and predatory mites that can provide some control and reduce your spider mite numbers, but it is unlikely these will get rid of your spider mites on their own. Insect predators can be effective if you have a small problem or if you need to get to harvest and chemical sprays are not a good option. Diatomaceous Earth – Basically, this is fossil dust – sprinkle on the top of your soil, and anywhere else in your room (window sills, doorways, etc). This powder-like substance is harmless to mammals and plants but is incredibly sharp at the microscopic level. Therefore it will tear and dehydrate spider mites on physical contact. This will not get rid of an infestation but can help control and slow things down when used effectively. Treat Entire Grow Area With Insecticide, Not Just Plants! – Treat complete room with broad-spectrum insecticide (only do this for a really bad problem or one that keeps coming back) – avoid this if you can! Note: Many growers try to avoid chemical sprays or miticides which contain Abamectin or lindane because these are harmful to humans. Please take a look at anything you use to treat your grow room, follow the directions closely, and heed all warnings. Some treatments will work for some setups or types of mites, but not for others. As mentioned earlier, if you got your spider mites from another marijuana grower, chances are you may need to resort to extreme measures to get rid of your infestation. Step 2: Follow up in 2-3 days with a different method to kill them (you should also re-apply your first method) Follow up in 2-3 days with something different that will also kill their eggs and any surviving adults. The adults at this point will already be more resistant to your original method so you’ll get the best results using something else for the second treatment. Step 3: Repeat Step 1 & 2 at least one more time – always treat grow area at least once after you think spider mites are completely gone Repeat steps 1 & 2 at least one more time to ensure that you have really cleaned out your grow room. Some species of spider mite can take days or weeks to mature and will reappear in the grow room stronger than ever. Because of this, you should treat your area at least once after you are almost certain that all the spider mites are gone. Using a mix of several different methods seems to work best for getting rid of spider mites. Some spider mites are more resistant to some methods than others. If you can see spider mites with your eyes, it means you probably have millions in the room waiting to hatch. Step 4: Prevention: thoroughly inspect and proof your grow area against future attacks Once spider mites are gone, you need to worry about prevention. With spider mites, the best offense is a good defense! Stop spider mites from ever getting hold of your grow room with good prevention…. Indoor Spider Mite Prevention The best spider mite remedy is prevention! If you’ve had spider mite attack your grow room in the past, you might be unintentionally doing something to encourage or attract them. There are many preventative products such as sprays which make plants less tasty to annoying spider mites. However, these should only be used as a supplement to good gardening practices. The most important aspect of spider mite (or any marijuana pest) prevention when growing indoors is a clean and secure grow room. Never Bring Spider Mites into Your Grow Room! Many indoor growers get spider mites from bringing in cannabis clones that are infected, or from visiting another grower or grow room with spider mites. Even just a few eggs on a clone or a few spider mites on your clothes is all it takes to start a full-fledged infestation. This is the most common way people get spider mites, especially the marijuana-specialist spider mites (“the borg”) which can be almost impossible to kill! Most importantly, never move plants or clones from the outside world into your grow room without treating and quarantining them. If you get a new plant, keep that plant away from your other plants until you know that it’s clean. For every new plant or clone: Get a handheld microscope and use it to look for bugs on new plants. Check closely for tiny spots on the leaves which could be spider mite bites. Also, check for eggs and tiny bugs underneath the leaves. It’s easiest to find bugs when the plant is at its smallest. Dip new clones or small plants in room temperature water treated with Safer Soap or Mighty Wash If you can’t dip the plant, spray with a proven spider mite cure. Keep new plants in quarantine for at least a week and check regularly to ensure they have no bugs before you bring them around your other plants. Never go directly into the grow room from outdoors to avoid tracking in bugs. If you’ve visited another grower or grow room, it’s especially important to change your clothes and possibly shower before going to check on your plants. You don’t want to infect your plants with spider mites that are cannabis specialists! One of the cool things about growing with seeds is you never have to worry that they come with bugs! Keep a Clean Grow Space Try to keep everything clean and tidy. Not only does this help prevent bugs but it protects buds so they don’t have fibers and dust all over them! Collect any dead leaves or other plant matter regularly and remove them from your growing space. It doesn’t count if you put them in a neat pile or trash can in the corner, you need to keep dead plant matter out of your grow room. Make sure that you or anyone who comes into your contact space is clean (don’t let anyone walk into your grow room directly from outside). Be especially cautious if the person has recently visited another grow space. No dogs, cats, rabbits or any other pets in your grow space. In addition to shedding and possibly bringing in bugs, some cats will happily chew on your leaves and buds, so double reason not to let them anywhere near your plants! Wipe up and sterilize everything in between grows. Maintain a Great Growing Environment Spider mites do better in some environments than others. Luckily the conditions that make your plants happy are not that great for spider mites. So if you’re taking care of your plant’s environment, you’re also helping to prevent bugs and mold. Make sure you have great airflow in your room because spider mites thrive in stagnant air. Creating lots of air movement will not only help prevent spider mites, fungus gnats and mold, but your plants love it too! Spider mites like hot, dry weather. Maintaining a comfortable room temperature and a moderate amount of humidity in the grow room will help prevent or slow down a spider mite infestation. If you have an air intake from outside, make sure you have some sort of filter to keep bugs from getting in Sprinkle Diatomaceous Earth on top of your soil and all around your grow room – this all-natural remedy is safe for humans (we can even eat it) and works because it is very jagged on the microscopic level. Tiny spider mites get ripped apart by diatomaceous earth while plants grow through it happily Keep a close watch on your plants, and react quickly at the FIRST site of spider mites!!!! If you’re growing just a small amount of marijuana for personal use and are really worried about spider mites, you might consider starting with seeds instead of clones. That way you don’t have to worry about accidentally getting cannabis zombie mites when starting from seed (plus you can choose to grow any strain you want!). Another way to help prevent some pests is to grow hydroponically, since spider mites and most pests are much less likely to thrive in a soilless environment!
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