Jump to content

Hempyfan

Members
  • Content Count

    4,995
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Hempyfan last won the day on November 4 2019

Hempyfan had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4,152 Excellent

1 Follower

About Hempyfan

  • Rank
    Grow Teacher

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    I have seen God! They never tell you what to do after that. So I vape on and I vape on..
    Jah Bless!

Recent Profile Visitors

3,170 profile views
  1. I would say that you were aggressive. I offer generic advice and have not seen the rest of your grow. I will try to look later but busy busy so take what I say now generically and apply if warranted and if not then just some rambling that won't hurt. In future, plan out the grow. I get that a person thinks they do but if you are surprised by the growth of a plant, you were not effective. Select strains that will only work well with your grow area and environment. I cannot stress this enough. Some of the biggest plants I've seen came from a 400w hps setup that was perfect for the grow area and the environment. My point, environment and correct genetics for the size you have = success. Ok, now let's talk about caring for the plant Now, you seriously shocked the plant during a stage. As a result you will only in part gain the outcome you wanted. Essentially you gave the plant a serious injury to a handicap. The result will likely end up as the buds you were not looking for. That said, not the end of the world. Expect, fluffy buds than normal. Your plants will try to make up it's loss of leaves and will do at the expense of making bud to make more leaf giving a higher than leaf to bud ratio. In addition, the plant may continue to stretch in order to gain enough light to the leaves it has remaining if it still needs but likely you will have stunted plants with looser and smaller buds. Appreciate, the plant, natural and untouched will have about 30% more leaf than it needs. This is to help ensure that as the plant grows and looses lead due to predators and environment that it can still function well. You can further over time take about another 20% shaping and molding the plant but I do not recommend more. This is saying, at the of the end the grow, your plant should still have 50% of it's leafs. Generically spoken. It is more about timing with plant stages to optimize growth for buds and care. Things to do. I would ensure that they get good environment, care and nutrition at each stage of development to come. Think anti fungal. Looser buds with stress are highly susceptible. Reduce NPK 1/4 until the plant shows it's coming out of stress. Maybe 1 to 2 weeks. Strong genetics can bounce back faster but the issues I stated remain. If plant shows signs of low NPK slowly increase, not all at once. Do not add in more nitrogen than normal for your stage. Generically. I would at this point out out a screen/net over it. And make an even canopy so as many of the bud sites get as much light as appropriate. Think scrog, screen of green. You said this already. In future, think of using bending techniques/lst, low stress training for high reaching plants. Hope that helps, not end of world. Great learning opportunity too. This is how we learn and we all been in situations and positions we would rather not be in. You can still get good potency but expect low yield I will do my best to watch your grow. Hempyfan!!
  2. I recommend making a space that you exhaust your grow room into with rated filter and fan for that area. Too big is an issue as it is with too small. I have seen many times people use a barely rated fan and it essentially is underpowered in reality for their situation. More angles and such with ventilation can cause this easy. - grow room filters into another area. - that room is then filtered again as it is exhausted outside. In periphery areas add ozone or ona smell products or whatnot. Good for entry areas and such. I would change my filters every 1/2 year to 3/4 year. I never pushed it. Keep grow area clean as possible. Check for dust build ups such as ontop of lights and such. If dusty there, that's caked in your filter too. This is more important than most appreciate.
  3. Maybe a phosphorus issue. Edited later. Looks more P issue. If so, try to learn from it. I recommend to grow out and if you have same genetic that was grown without issue, then you can do a side by side and have an illustration and effect between the two crops. This can help you gain a deeper appreciation of what those differences mean. While that specific grow will not be ideal the potential to gain from it in other ways that can directly help future grows and may in a way be far more valuable than a great grow. We remember the bad ones and the ones we learn from. I suspect P issue. Hungry plants. I would try to figure out first why. If that's it, build up nutrients slowly for the appropriate time frame. Not a big ec jump at once. If soil, do an amended mix and treat like adding a top compost layer. Make sure you water very well and no dry pockets in media but not crazy either. If it is fungus among us, treat best you can. See about reducing humidity when lights go off. Treat room after plants are done. I like sulphur burners, ceramic but cheap ones work same, just more user friendly and better materials. Peroxide baths/Spray until coating and dripping but but not crazy. normal strength not crazy. Let dry with week fan and not with plants touching. I would recommend treating in one location, clean grow area real good and then put dry plants back in. Dont due sulphur burners in flower. I ran between grows. Hope that helps. Hempyfan!
  4. Does my heart well to see you and with such wonderful plants in great health! I am so very happy for you! Karma Up! Hempyfan!
  5. using a fem in breeding is basically a dna wild card. It opens up a lot more options in a generation that makes it more difficult to predict but depending on the style of breeding this may or maynot be an issue. For most. I do not believe it is especially after a few generations. I look at using fems as like an F2 in similar use but a bit wilder in genetic combinations. Keep the good ones and work from there, so and so forth.
  6. I like aero cloners but do your self a favor. Get a timer. Generically I ran 15 min on and 15 off. Get a thermometer so you will know your water temps. Check it initially throughout the day and adjust as appropriate. Such as adding ice, adjusting time on and off. Now let's talk placement of cloner. If possible, put in cooler area. A light bulb is sufficient. You want to be aware of ambient heat that adds heat slower over time. Think like an Amish heater that slowly heats the room. Your lights could be doing that or if you have very small spaces. You want to find stability in water temperature. Use good water too. I have seen more issues with hard water. Such from wells. I personally prefer air cloners but most HD uses traditional cloning. Pluses and minuses for both and from time to time even the much experienced growers all of a sudden run into issues. About a half year ago I traveled to help with a similar odd issue. All of a sudden the clones would not root and/or stop rooting. All things were common competent and no reason was noticeable. So I started from scratch and due diligence. Cleaned everything, pump (holy nasty filter batman). Pvc pipe, pucks and sprayers. The pvc interior coated with an off color stain that would clean off. I think this was a build up of hard water and microbes. Cleaned with sanitizing soak and easy wipe. Area around lid and the lid had a ring and was closed. Was not easy to see and likely played no role. Pucks we're dirty where they hold the plant, poor cleaning ineffective cleaning prior. Still likely not a factor. I believe sometimes a perfect storm situation happens that raises the temps or causes harmful fluctuations in water temperature and the downsides that comes with that. I also believe that in some situations the cause of the problem occurs over time and when it finally reaches a critical point it is a shock/surprise. Seeming that things are going well and boom nothing as if hitting a wall. In the case above. It moderately fixed the issue. I am more working with their mother care which is another story but is very important but is not the cause. In short, when you can't figure it out. Start over from beginning and as new as you can. Follow every rule. The ice bottle works well to cool the water but be advised on shocking the water temperature. Using a thermometer will help with that. Also adjusting the water bottle size, smaller or larger to help maintain stability may be a consideration. I also see black cloners. Black absorbs heat. I like white. Hope that helps.
  7. The stomata are unhappy. Typically environmental, humidity and temps with over watering. Plant uptakes but stomata doesn't open correctly. Puffy leaves. I would reduce watering. If applicable, get environment in check. Wind might be a bit strong too. The plant will normalize once stomata function normally again.
  8. All things goes thru changes, just sometimes and often times those changes are when we don't want. This is mostly about nostalgia and like speaking and reading a few but we are few and more silents by the day.
  9. sorry for the delay. You can generally cut back pretty drastically. Depends on how stable the genetic and mother is. I would do this, providing that the mother plants are stable. trim to the desired length/shape. repot when repotting, trim roots, about 1/2 to an inch deep. It is ok to go deeper but not crazy. The plant just went through surgery. treat it as such. ensure calcium and magnesium are correct and give some silicon if not already in nutrition. Is not necessary to add extra silicon if it is already in the nutrition or media. careful to not overwater initially. the plant will not uptake well for a minute or two. The plant will come back but might take around a month. Manipulate the plant as wanted.
  10. Gardenartis. Your good people. Care not for the words of those who seek to diminish your work. I have been called an angel and a devil. Generally those that called me devil do not know my perspective at least to a point of appreciation/effective understanding. Teach/explain to those you can. To the rest that don't accept science and experience. They only want to fight and hurt without genuine merit. Those people do not matter. Don't let them hurt feelings as they are without standing and true justification. Keep on keeping on! You do good and we need you!
  11. Just got back online today. Fun times... For a hempy you want the holes a bit up on the sides of the pot so that it makes a reservoir. On the media, I used big perlite mostly. Perlite/stones and coco are my favorite due to wicking. birds nest type. All the media should last for a very long time but a replenishment % is common. What essentially is happening. You generally start with a clone, because we want to populate the media roots as fast as possible. Once the clone is established in the new pot I like to reduce water/nutrient input for a week. This increases the plant to aggressively go after that water source at the bottom of the container. We want to help the plant drink well about the time it hits that container. About a week. Now if you used a wicking ingredient in your media this helps. An example of birds nest style coco, the stringy stuff and not ground so much. I actually like both in media but for hempy buckets, I ensure I put in a healthy amount. Be careful to not hit with heavy nutrients after that first week, It will be an unpleasant shock to the plant and likely lead to a burn. The issue with hempy buckets is when you get to high a concentration of nutrients on the reservoir of the pot and that can cause significant issues over time. So go low and slow build-up and be sure to test your in and outs as this will help you keep in an acceptable range. Also, with hempy buckets because of nutrient concentration on the bottom of the reservoir with this style. I do advocate flushing at flip, weeks 3 to 5, and towards the end. This with this type of schedule, feed - water - feed - water - feed - water. Is what sets Hempy growth apart is when roots growth is optimized to begin energy into uptake rather than searching for water and nutrients. This when tapered with the timing for its growth period seriously speeds up growth. Not that it speeds up but that when all clicks into place it is ready and raring to go at the starting line compared to not quite prepared but at the starting line. I evolved from hempy buckets to basically fabric containers on a flood and drain table. I have done all types of media on it for the most part. My name hempy comes from hempy buckets and in appreciation of the original Hempy!
  12. I tend to dislike Western medicine that is geared to insurance companies rather than the patient. With that said, I would be dead if not for modern surgery. I take no medications but I should. Now, for something different.
  13. Yes, if the environment is stable and light and everything is spot on. Then I suspect it is Sativa genes doing their thing. Generally, it won't be a big deal towards potency as it is with stress-induced growth typically like. Think of it like this, a Sativa wants to live old and long and the weather is a paradise for her. She is in no hurry to finish and wants to go slowly. She does not typically finish like an indica, that is more all at one-time frame instead of some growth, maturity, smaller growth, maturity and so and so forth. slowly adjusting the temperature and humidity to mimic spring, summer and fall "might" help but I would not be concerned overly if not from stress and would consider it normal growth if I am correct on the genetics having sativa genes. My guess is in part a co-dependent or similar type of gene that under the right conditions can still come through. Nutrition is also a potential factor but I do not speak on that as I assume all things competent with its nutrition, meaning no nitrogen to very little nitrogen in flower.
×
×
  • Create New...