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The Joker

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  1. This is not intended to be mean, just honest . 1. When Overgrow started , social media was new... no Facebook, IG, only Cannabis World and Overgrow . It was the first time truly master growers came out to share info that had been previously only been passed person to person. It was exciting! ICMag split off to create a business model: Give free seeds out, glorify people who make seeds, people get followers and shill for seed makers. When there were 2-3 weed sites and no social media it was fantastic. 2. Flash forward to today: Hundreds of pot sites , hundreds of social media outlets, thousands of threads about Every aspect of growing. If you ask a forum question , it's because you are too lazy to do research and want others to Do the work for you. During Overgrow , it was illegal and everything was small scale unless you had brass balls. No one cares about small grows as the warehouse crews are on a different level. I've been at the grown shop when people are loading flatbed trucks with supplies and buying 150 bulbs. 3. When Opengrow started , it was already late to the game. In addition , the genetics are subpar. When I was a mod, I had A killer collection of elite moms. I started to grow the gear from here and it sucked big time ( Eskobar excepted)I was conflicted Because I felt obligated to grow it . Cost me money because here in CA no one wanted mediocre Dutch genetics when the local stuff was so much better. Seeds from my friends were superior than what I found here. Reviews outside this site about the gear here subpar. I gave away almost all my Dutch seeds. With mediocre reviews and an over saturated social media supply not a lot of people are going to jump Onboard. I was growing Blueberry Sat, Pure Kush and Chemd, why the hell should I grow this mediocre gear? I've been making my own seeds for a few years and they are better . 4. That leaves the newbs. There isn't a lot of useful grow info here. With thread titles begging people to look , it's become an attention thing vs.an education thing. Can't remember the last time I saw a side by side. I do it a few times a year just to see. It's also time Consuming to make threads. The LED threads here are the exception, those people try new things. 5. In addition, there are fantastic horticulture and garden sites . Have a grow problem ? If you go to a cannabis site , you will see dumb ass answers to grow problems. ( have mites , vacuum your plants!) Go to a university site and get the answer you need. I had stem nematodes which cause dudding. Search THC farmer and ICMag and you'll be told their is no cure. One call to an organic pest management company and I got Rid of them. 6. Private sites: I belong to two private sites that are great sources of info and useful tips. Almost all threads are side By sides, how to's or just amazing. No beliefs , just methods that work. This site has been deader then a door nail since day one. I can tell you that my attempts to prop it up cost me quality time in my life I can't get back.
  2. The thing was, everyone was telling me how great it was and that I must be doing something wrong. Yes, it's true, I had been growing "elite clones" , but I also grew a lot of seeds. To be fair I only grew about 15 seeds over time. Scone was saying KF was up there with the elites he was growing and I guess I didn't find those phenos. I still love seed runs and you can make oils or lotions with the phenos that don't make the cut. KF would probably make a very nice lotion with pain relieving qualities. Beaned in Boston: Good luck with your grow. Maybe you'll get the golden ticket and get the phenome I never found. Sorry for the hijack.
  3. Prepare to be underwhelmed. Very pretty, easy to grow, big yielding. Greasy with resin. No taste , no smell. I grew from seed regular and feminized. Grew a clone a member swore was great . I ran hydro, organic with teas, bottle nutes , Sannies tabs and bacto. I tried it a number of ways thinking I must be doing something wrong. No. Went back to California genetics where I didn't have to try so hard to get a good flavor. I didn't have to try at all , it was there in the genetics . I grew this a long time ago. It was the first strain I grew that no dispensary wanted. It's when I realized the vast difference between what I was reading on this site and what I was experiencing in the grow room. Everyone told me I was doing something wrong. I grew Chemdog D , Bubba and Cherry Pie the same way and the results were vastly different. If a strain has a strong flavor and smell , it should not be a struggle to make it come out no matter what the grow method. It was crazy because it smelled pretty good in flower, just after cure, it was gone.
  4. I got rid of most of my genetics as they were subpar for a variety of reasons. It's The main one being inbreeding. I've got 3 very old mothers that were bred from landrace outdoors decades ago. They have survived everything. They are mold resistant, mite resistant and disease resistant. The plants that were the weakest were Girl Scout Cookies , Cookie Monster and Sour D. All polyhybrids bred indoors. Weak plants. The weakest was a fem plant. Good smoke but as a plant it was garbage. The old moms are more powerful highs, just as flavorful and easy to clone. We've been crossing new Strains to the old stuff and some afghan and Paki indicas to reintroduce strength and vigor to the plants . New polyhybrids are weak, they've lost something essential. We are hoping that the crosses are stronger. I won't name my old moms as when I do I get PMs asking for cuts and seeds. Please don't.
  5. These are the words of my teacher, whose direct instructions have worked for me. I have read Krisnamurti, but have made no connection to either his lineage or their methods. The method above ( just a small part of developing concentration) are from a section of the first Point of the 7 Point Mind Training that goes back to Atisha ( 950 AD). It along with the mahamudra preparations ( ngondro), have allowed me to be less of an asshole. "If you work really hard, for a very long time, very slowly, things begin to change." -Jigme Rinpoche... Best piece of advise I ever got. There are intellectual lineages for people whose personality responds better to academic approaches ( Gelugpa), strict lineages for people who need structure ( Zen). I seem to do better from the Tibetan practice lineages of the Kagyu/Nyigma who are the yogi lineages. That's my personality type. More practice, less reading. I saw the title, thought I would throw some perspective in as to the meaning of loving kindness and compassion as a tool for enlightenment. There are many , many methods of developing these qualities. But the most important thing is that by developing this, you become happier and so do all the people around you. It's quite wonderful. Whatever works for people in a positive way to cultivate happiness for themselves and others, it's most important to practice it every day. It doesn't work if one only does it once in a while. I stopped posting and found a lot more time to spend on the cushion and volunteer to help the homeless once a month. It was amazing to see how just a little more free time opened up the door for other things.
  6. “Once you have received instruction and learned to stabilize your mind, you can practice other forms of shamatha. Remedy for Anger: Concentration on compassion and loving-kindness The most effective way to remedy anger is to cultivate loving kindness and compassion. In order to cultivate compassion, you must concentrate on the suffering ( dissatisfaction) that permeates the mind of all sentient beings. There are three types of suffering that exist in the minds of all sentient beings: suffering, sadness and disappointment ( dissatisfaction). Suffering mind is the mind that is constantly suffering from one thing or another. This can be caused by physical pain, for example. A sad mind is principally caused by thinking in a particular way: what you needed did not happen, what you did not need happened etc. Anything that contributes to this sadness and depression is part of the sad mind. Unlike suffering and sadness that comes from the inside, disappointment comes from the outside. Whoever and whatever hurts or harms you, disappoints you. That is disappointment. First think about the three kinds of suffering that afflict the mind. Now think about how others suffer from these three types of suffering. First concentrate on the tiniest creatures- ants, earthworms etc. Think about how each and every individual ant has a mind, and how every mind, no matter how small, is afflicted by these three kinds of suffering. Try to really feel how they feel their suffering. Now gradually consider bigger and bigger sentient beings: dogs, cows, etc. concentrating on how each living creature has a mind, that mind is afflicted by the three kinds of suffering, and try to feel their pain. This continues up until you consider the minds of humans. Feeling how others feel this constant pain, just like you, you can really experience their pain. Feeling their pain as strongly as your own, you can now cultivate the wish that all beings should be free from these three types of suffering. Now consider the nature of this suffering, what is it? Where does it come from? Think about where suffering occurs: in the mind. Suffering permeates every moment of mind, every moment of mind carries sadness, disappointment, and subtle suffering. This is the real truth of the first noble truth: there is suffering ( dissatisfaction). The mind never has a moment of peace. Now consider how if there is no suffering in an individuals mind, there is in fact no suffering at all. So what is mind? Investigate it closely and you will see that every moment of mind is impermanent, not solid or lasting. Moment to moment it changes, without a single , solid essence underlying it. Through this sincere investigation , you will discover that the mind is in fact empty, that underlying it there is no such thing as self. So in fact it is the mistaken belief in a self, the mistaken belief in the permanence of the mind, that underlies the experience of each of these three kinds of suffering. Now with the understanding that all beings- including yourself- suffer equally, and with the understanding that there is no self to suffer, that mind is empty, raise up the intense desire that all beings be freed from their suffering. Wishing that they be free from suffering is compassion. After you have generated the sincere wish that all beings be free from suffering, cultivate an equally intense wish for all sentient beings to experience happiness. Do this by calling to mind the fact that each living being has the same desire for happiness as you do, and then concentrate on generating the profound wish that every sentient being experience true joy. That is loving kindness, This concentration is limitlessly meritorious. It produces limitless merit. This meditation is something you can practice for weeks, until you can sit comfortably and smoothly concentrate the moment you sit down for meditation: all beings suffer exactly as I do, suffering is in the mind, each moment of the mind does not exist; the mind stream is therefore empty and there is nothing to cling to; may all beings realize this and be free from suffering. All beings wish for happiness exactly as I do: may all beings experience true joy.”
  7. Yeah. I should stop posting . Really , it's time. Last tag ! You 're it! Bye all. Imagine all the good I could have done in the world instead of posting here! Let's start now. Thanks man.
  8. I would not smoke those plants . Forbid kills eggs but stays in the plant . Forbid should have a 24 hr dark period and a rinse or your plants will fry. Mother plants only . For all who think ONE application of ONE product will work, you are incorrect. All you will do is create a mite resistant to that product . Guaranteed. 3-4 products in rotation . I did a one and done with 4 products every. 5 days nearly 3 years ago, no broads since. You can't in good conscience spray pesticides on flowering plants. Transliminar pesticides can stay in a plant 30-60 days . Treat your moms , take cuts , grow new moms, take cuts and grow those . It's not just the plants, it's your entire grow environment that needs treatment. Every thing you use has to be sterilized Hope you had a chemical suit, full face respirator, chemical gloves and a hood when you sprayed and did not re-enter for 12-24 hrs. There are a lot of morons in California who sprayed Avid again and again only to create a super mite. I got two spotted mites last year and hit them with Avid. Nada, No effect . Luckily, regular mites are easy if you are methodical and use an atomizer. Neem oil and insect soap did the trick over the course of 2 weeks . That's all I use and spinosad once in a while The quality of Caps is hit and miss now. You can get Botanigard . I've been using OG Special Sauce microbial tea and innoculant. Just like Sannie bacto but cheaper here wholesale. 908 grams for 32 bucks local in CA. $50 online .
  9. I have posted no information that can lead to my arrest as a legal grower among thousands in my area. It's a combination of greed , laziness , a sense of entitlement and the realities that people will try to set you up. Big Fucking Smile!
  10. Okay, this is a public forum with a variety of personalities. We have smart people , we have dumb people, we have normal well adjusted people and crazy motherfuckers. All types. About twice a year I have a complete stranger pm me and ask me to commit a felony. Would a normal , intelligent person walk up to a stranger and demand they buy them lunch? Even better, would they ask that person to steal them lunch? Sounds idiotic right? But it happens on the boards. I got an email from a person with no posts, no pics and no participation asking me to send him cuts to France. When I politely declined, he then asked to be Facebook friends and reveal our real world information so we can be real friends. I gave a two word reply starting with F. I'm assuming this is a cop or a moron. Use common sense. None of us are friends. I don't know any of you. You have no idea who the fuck I am . It's an imaginary community. Don't risk your freedom. Annually, we hear about people getting busted and being recruited by cops to set up growers through the Forums. Ask Joe Shmoe about how he went to jail sending what he thought was medicine to a so called cancer patient. I've gotten all these as requests multiple times: "You don't know me, but my dad has cancer, can you send me some weed for him?" -or- .... I read chemd is a good form of cancer treatment, can you send me that cut? "Hey man, you have GSC right, give it to me, I've been a big contributor to the forums." "Hi, would you drive hours to buy seeds for me from in Santa Cruz that I can't get here in England and then mail them to me?" "We are friends right? I've read your posts and you've read my posts, that makes us friends. Please buy me these hard to get nutrients and mail them to me. I'll pay you for your time." "Hi, I don't know you, but I plan on going to California. I was wondering if I could stay with you for a week or two. I don't have a credit card so I can't rent a car, would you mind driving me around as well?" It's fucking nuts. Use common sense and don't be anyone's fool. FWIW, I've never asked anyone for any clones and I've never gotten them from a dispensary . They have been given to me from people I know and trust. If someone wants to give you something, you'll be the first to know. We had a grower create a handle to pretend to be his daughter with cancer and ask for cuts. ( Big V) , A grower sent a few lbs of weed to a crazy person on the boards named Oxirous who referred to himself as "we". As soon as he got all the weed, he kept it, never sent the money and stopped posting under that handle. The person who sent it was an adult. The recipient was an 18 year old living with his parents pretending to be older. The person you imagine the handle to be is fiction. Sometimes , sad motherfuckers , create a bullshit online persona to compensate for what they are not. There was a moderator on this forum whose entire life he shared with his "friends" was a complete fabrication until his world fell apart. He also had multiple handles pretending to be friends of his. Crazy shit. The morbidly obese guy who brags about all the women in his life..... I could go on. USE COMMON SENSE.
  11. I looked it up and found some really interesting links... we have a winner. http://www.ncbi.nlm....les/PMC2914298/ the best one.... Basically, they say by the time you see damage, your fucked. it's conditional, but he's right. If you shut down, just go down to mothers, sterilize, repaint , repeatedly clean everything with bleach. Trim your moms to look like asparagus and then continue with the predators for a few months, it may work. Studies on greenhouses are inconclusive because they can get around on whiteflies etc. But if you stick all your moms in a single cab with predators, while sterilizing the entire environment repeatedly, you may have a chance. This is another good link: http://www.oardc.ohi...10-10_Mites.pdf I soak all pots in bleach after each grow. I spray bleach on tools and floors and walls at least once a week. Mid grow, I also take all plants out, spray walls and floors with 10% bleach and put them back. Sounds obsessive but I haven't had anything bad in a year. Before that another year. All my pests were from cuts from a single friend who had broads, two spotted mites, nematodes and .... a bacterial infection. Yep. Good times. Last round of cuts, I isolated, treated and got a bacterial infection anyway. That's another subject... Management Broad mites require a food source for survival, so implementing sanitation practices, such as cleaning greenhouses prior to introducing new plants and disinfecting benches will help to alleviate problems with broad mites. Broad mite populations are difficult to suppress with contact miticides because they are located in the meristematic tissues. Miticides with translaminar properties may be more effective and typically have broad mites on the label. Translaminar means that, after a foliar application, the material penetrates leaf tissues and new terminal growth; forming a reservoir of active ingredient within the leaf or new growing points. As a result, these miticides are more likely to come in contact with broad mites feeding in the meristematic tissues. Those miticides labeled for suppression of broad mite populations are presented in Table 1. Preventative applications may be required; particularly on highly susceptible crops because once damage is evident it is too late to initiate practices that may have suppressed populations of broad mites. As such, it is recommended to rouge out and immediately dispose of plants exhibiting symptoms, and those adjacent to symptomatic plants in order to prevent the spread of broad mite populations. file:///page3image20640 file:///page3image20800 Table 1. Miticides (active ingredient and trade name) that have broad mite on the label, and activity (translaminar and/or contact). ______________________________________________________________________________ Common Name (active ingredient) Trade Name Activity ______________________________________________________________________ Abamectin Chlorfenapyr Fenpyroximate Pyridaben Spiromesifen ______________________________________________________________________________ Avid Translaminar and contact Pylon Translaminar and contact Akari Contact Sanmite Contact Judo Translaminar and contact Biological control of broad mite is another management option and involves the use of commercially-available predatory mites. The predatory mite, Neoseiulus barkeri has been successfully used in suppressing broad mite populations, and the predatory mites, Neoseiulus (=Amblyseius) cucumeris and N. californicus may be utilized against broad mite populations on certain greenhouse-grown crops including vegetables. It is important to apply predatory mites early in the crop production cycle before broad mites become established. Hot water treatments are another potential management option that has been suggested as a means of dealing with broad mites. In fact, it has been shown that exposure times between 15 and 45 minutes at temperatures between 105oF (40oC) and 110oF (43oC) are effective in killing broad mites. Plants have to be immersed in the hot water long enough to allow penetration into areas such as the meristematic tissues where the mites are located, and at the same time not damage plants. Producers may consider implementing this procedure; however, this is a short-term solution with no residual affect as plants placed back among crops can be infested.
  12. Warning... looks like Guardian Mite Spray was tested and the reason it worked was that it had Avermectin in it which is the main ingredient in Avid. Big news in the Emerald Cup this year was how many submissions failed for pesticide. Looks like they may have been fooled by the makers of Guardian that it was organic. Everyone was questioning how an ORGANIC cup had most submittals rejected after testing. I have recommended this product to a few people and have even tested it myself. I'm a bit pissed because I did not wear safety equipment and I would not have used it at all had I known. Apologies. So now, back to square one. There is no organic spray solution to getting rid of broads. Yes, you can soak your plants in hot water if you can figure out how to do that. I don't think people want to power wash the inside of their grows, lights, etc with scalding water. How do you eradicate your entire grow space without chemicals? http://www.oregonlive.com/marijuana/index.ssf/2016/01/oregon_flags_potential_problem.html
  13. From weed that I've grown... Pure Kush... Cherry Pie... Sour D... Chemd ... Bubba Kush and Romulan Joe's Indica... Pine OG. I've loved a bunch of other strains, but those are the ones I wish I could grow again. From seed , I really got lucky with Chocolate Rain. Grape Krush and Coco Kush from DJ Short. Blue Satellite 2.2, Blockhead and Sweet Tooth no. 3 from Spice of Life. I lost a few moms to broad mites. I still have Pure Kush, Amnesia Haze, Girl Scout Cookies, Romulan Indica, Cookie Monster, Sour Diesel and Grape Krush x Pure Kush that I made. Been loving the Sour d, very nice smoke. How about you?
  14. I am always looking for ease and efficiency. What is the simplest way to get the best product with the least problems in my environment. It's still a ton of work. The idea of having to replace 20 bulbs every 6 months instead of just one doesn't suit me. I'm also a big sprayer, neem oil, aact, antibacterial. Side lighting would be coated with oil. I cover the bulb with a paper bag when I spray. How do I not get oil onto side lighting and 20 bulbs? Intrinsic on Overgrow used to pull huge buds off this floro pyramid thing in an attic that conformed to the angles of the ceiling. I'm working with some very old school genetics right now. I'm on a pollen run with a lot of pollen to be produced that will be desiccated and used on a few different strains in the next few months. All genetics from North America and Canada except for one which is kind of European but derived from American genetics. We'll see. Not always so easy.
  15. If you need to use 20 florescent bulbs and all those ballasts, doesn't it seem more intelligent to just use one bulb and one ballast? It seems like a laborious and inefficient way of doing things. You won't be saving electricity, set up labor, heat or money. You have to do all that work to get the same PAR as a simple 400 watt bulb. So why not just get one bulb? I can walk out the door of lumatek with a 400 watt ballast and bulb for 150 bucks. You can get this 600w digital ballast for $150.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221893745226?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82. a 4' 8 bulb T-5 set up is $187.00 https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/91568/GROW-FLP48.html?utm_source=SmartFeedGoogleBase&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=GROW-FLP48&utm_content=T5+Reflectors+-+8+Lamp&utm_campaign=SmartFeedGoogleBaseShopping&gclid=Cj0KEQiAq920BRC8-efn57XrotYBEiQAlVlMQ61-wzCQ9WCdFAK0VHTBPsuxW4njY9D7fLnAOzB5mRoaAudH8P8HAQ The subject was that you need more light to have healthy plants and yes, if you got 20 -50 4 ' T5 bulbs it would be equal to a single 400 watt or 1K. But why bother with all that? Good Luck with your seeds.
  16. We've been having a discussion at another site regarding plant health, plant stress , plants immune systems and light levels. We've all been dealing with the same problems as we all got it from the same source . The person who is having the hardest time getting his mothers to recover keeps them under floros. Those of us who rotated our mothers under brighter lights and larger pots noticed a huge difference in plant health, vigor and immunity. I grow both bonsai and small mothers in 3 gallon Geopots in cabs. The bonsai are under a 150 watt and are a lot more work to keep healthy vs the mothers under a 250 or 400. The lower wattage plants are more prone to both fungal and bacterial infections which we got from both 2 spotted spider mites and harmful nematodes. Pests are gone but we are eradicating secondary infections . 100% organic as chemical fed plants would have already died. When sprayed , the lower wattage plants need a weaker dose as they don't have the root system or lights to handle it. I had some plants respond negatively to a treatment under a 150. Popped them under a 250 and they bounced back. Plants under higher wattage lights with the same treatments are perfectly fine. When either growing for pollen or for making seeds, I am only using 600-1k. The healthier your plants , the healthier your cuttings or seed. I've made seed under floros and they are fine, but if you are talking optimum , I'm just putting this out there. My plants currently under a 1k are symptom free and going gang busters. You have to be gentler with the plants under the lower wattage lights. My experience . Not an expert as I've only been playing with this for a year.
  17. Use the dosages reccomended but many have ph requirements. I have it somewhere written. Some were 5.6 , some were 6.2. No need to increase dosage . I also left them in the dark for 12-24 hrs after applications because you can fry the leaves .
  18. I tried Merit 75 , which by the way kills bees, so please don't use it outside or even dump it. No it does not work. Will kill root aphids. If I were to do it again, I would start with Guardian which is some kind of lavender oil that only works on soft bodied insects. I still have Avid , Akari, and Forbid all of which were applied only one time each 5 days apart. I got Pylon as well since Avid has been misused so many mites are immune. You need to rotate or you will breed resistant mites. Floramite does not work on broads. You have to be careful spraying plants as the stomata need to breathe. Give them breaks . I sprayed AACT between pesticides . Once the plants recovered I've learned to treat with liquid copper for bacterial and fungal infection. Plant damage attributed to pests is sometimes the result of a bacterial or fungal infection brought from pests, especially nematodes. Obviously don't spray Chems on something someone will smoke . The heat thing doesn't help your ducting , lights , tools , fans , walls etc. In addition to my plants I sprayed 100% of everything even inside cabinets and drawers . Ceilings , I wiped bulbs down. Cleaned the fan blades .... Every single thing. I caulked all my cabinets, baseboards , any crack I could find. If you don't seal your area , they will just hide , wait out the sprays and come back. Repainted too .
  19. 1. Those are great links. Fungus is a great way to control most insects. There are only a few strains that work. The google link says nothing about broad or cyclamen, just a general topic on controlling insects with fungus. I've been using OG Biowar for a few years and got rid of two spotted mites, fungus gnats but it didn't help with broads. 2. Spider mites are easy to get rid of and are completely different from broads and cyclamen. Absolutely , completely different. It's easy to get rid of spider mites with fungus. Absolutely. BROAD MITES ARE LIKE THE MUTANT SUPER MITES COMPLETELY DIFFERENT FROM REGULAR MITES. Again, you have no idea how lucky you are to not know about broads. The worst way to learn about Broad mites is to get them. Ask anyone who has had them, 3. My heart skipped a beat when I clicked the second link... could it be... but no. It's a great site with some great products... They talk about control of Broads or Cyclamen but not eradication. I'm not being a dick. If you click the link they have for the broads.... http://www.everwoodf...and_Broad_Mites it has some great advise on identification and the life cycle which is very important. However, the products listed won't eradicate them. Botanigard is an excellent product. Won't kill them. The Jury is out on heat treatments. I didn't try it. A few did, it's very difficult to get your heat all of your gear. Greenhouses will steam clean after they throw away all plants and equipment. Diotemaceous earth won't kill them, but I still mix into all my soil. The products they recommend are in a lot of products and it's great BioWorks Cease: Bacillus subtilis (strain QST 713) but it won't kill the broads. It's in Caps and in a few others. So is this Beauveria bassiana, strain GHA . Also a great product. Won't eradicate broads. I used all the products they recommend specifically for BROAD MITES. What that site is doing is conning you into buying ALOT of product that they admit will not eradicate Broad mites. My experience with fungus was that it seemed amazing. My plants bounced back. I scoped and scoped and could not find a single broad mite! DE in the soil. As previously stated, I stopped spraying as soon as buds formed, but I kept using the two fungi they mentioned as a drench as they are in CAPS. Come week 5 ... mite explosion. They even admit that: "Russet and Broad mite symptoms usually show up after you are in bloom! Timing is critical here so schedule your Beneficial Insect application immediately after your last foliar application of Beauveria bassiana, and again before bloom, or you will be fighting an uphill battle requiring contact pesticides. We typically use slow release sachets, which contain adults and juveniles that will exit the sachet over a two or three week period. Two or three applications, 3 weeks apart is, usually sufficient for the season. " However... from Chimera Introducing predators to a flowering (12/12 light cycle) chamber is essentially futile according to leading cannabis researchers... the predators seem to just go to sleep. They are more suited to the longer light cycle in a veg room. What they are telling you is that none of their products will get rid of broads, but by attacking them on all fronts, you can reduce their numbers to a level where you get some kind of harvest. Let me tell you what kind of harvest you will get. Your buds will be about 1/8 to 1/4 the size of normal buds. They will have greatly diminished smell and no taste. That's what you'll get . Again, I'm not being a dick, but you do not realize the tremendous difference between regular two spotted or spider mites and broads. ​You can buy three to 4 products and completely get rid of your mites in 12-15 days or you can buy 6-8 products from them and apply them over a period of months and still have broad mites. Guardian Spray is pricey , but it's a single product and it will ERADICATE broads in 9-12 days. So what do you want... to eradicate them or spend the next few years fighting them? I'll up the ante. If you can show documented proof that you yourself or anyone else has else has ERADICATED Broad or Cyclamen mites with fungus I'll not only give up 10 Grape Krush x Cherry Pie seeds, I'll add 10 Grape Krush x The White seeds which was released as White Krush. Organic methods whether oils, bacteria, fungus , DE or beneficial insects will knock them back, but will not eradicate. I'm a 100% organic. I use several strains of bacillus subtillis to both boost plants immune system and kill bugs. Shit does not work on broads.
  20. Edited because it's easier to profit off stupidity than correct it.
  21. I used OG Biowar which contains several type of fungus which grow on and consume pests. The photos show little mites covered with white fungus. In addition , it's also the best foliar spray and combined with the root pack , amazing for plant vitality . It has multiple strains of insect consuming fungus. It did not work against broad mites. Best source of beneficials I've used as it covers all bases. According to Cap ,not all ingredients are listed . The other important thing to know about fungus is that it will not kill the eggs . Broad mites have a rapid life cycle, so they lay eggs quickly. Even as the fungus is slowly consuming them, they are laying eggs . In addition , what makes broad and cyclamens unique is that at stages in their life cycle , they live INSIDE THE PLANT unlike spider mites which are only ON the plant. So a topical treatment will not work , has to be transliminar and Neem Cake doesn't cut it. That's why an ovicide is so important and disrupting the reproductive system ( Akari) is so important. Forbid 4F is some nasty shit, but it kills the eggs . Spray last. I wore a Tyvek suit, chemical gloves goggles , respirator and hood. I would like to say that I wished predatory mites worked against broad or cyclamen mites , but they simply do not. 10 seeds of Grape Krush x Cherry Pie to anyone with their own documented experience of predatory mites eradicating BROAD OR CYCLAMEN mites. The best broad mite thread is at Cannaculture.com which was a private site for experienced growers only . It's going to be open to the public which sucks as you will now have to sift through 9 pages of misinformation to find one page of information like everywhere else. The thread was written by people with broad mites or who had gotten rid of broads. All excellent growers. No guesswork or beliefs, just failures and successes. We all got nematodes too and almost all of us have rid ourselves of them too. We all used fungus re: Caps OG Biowar foliar combined with roots for a spray and a drench. It helps heal the leaves from all the Chems and gets any stragglers . Part of the reason it took me so long to realize I had them was that the fungus kept their numbers down. I used it weekly before I knew .You can't spray flowering buds without risking mold, so by week 5 , my flowering plants were destroyed. Spraying fungus on clones under a dome is also a nightmare. Your clones are covered in it and die. If you really want to help , then pointing people in the wrong direction based on wishful thinking or belief won't help. Broad mites are ao bad many growers just throw everything away and move to a new location. They are that hard to get rid of. For those of you not experience with BROAD mites, consider yourselves lucky . They are unlike any other mite as they live in the plant and are extremely difficult to eradicate . They become resistant super fast because lazy growers have repeatedly used only one pesticide . I've read reports of Avid having no effect on some as it has been misused . Never repeat . Spinosad didn't work. BT didn't work. Neem cake and oil didn't work. Merit 75 didn't work. Bleach didn't work. Fungus didn't work. Pyrethrins didn't work. Floramite didn't work. I tried a lot of stuff. I have an entire shelf of products that didn't work. I finally went nuclear. Done. Gone.
  22. It's not rocket science. If your buds feel moist, take them out of the jar and put them back in a bag for a few hour or overnight. Then put them back in the jar. Burp accordingly. Bag>jar> bag> jar if necessary.
  23. I tried the fungus using Caps. Bacillus subcillis or something. Didn't do shit as nymphs are inside the plant. Works great on root aphids and fungus gnats but won't eradicate broads. Broad mites make regular mites seem easy to get rid of. You need something that the plant can absorb to kill larvae and nymphs in the plant. You need an ovicide to kill eggs and you need something to kill adults. Avid , Akari, Forbid or Guardian are the only things I've used or seen used with success. Rev: you ever use predatory mites to get rid of broads? I never tried because all posts regarding said they were ineffective on broads and are incapable of ridding a room of any mite , only keeping them in check.They die really easily and don't help on the phases of the mite life cycle in the plants. How did you get rid of your broad mites? When I got two spotted mites it was easy to get rid of them because of the precautions. I use sulfur because plants that get bitten are prone to fungal infection. The double whammy of pests that suck and penetrate plants is that they create openings for pathogens to get in as they also weaken the immune system . A sulfur burn between runs gives your recovering plants an easy start.
  24. I forgot to write that I do sulfur burns between runs but if you spray oils sulfur will damage your leaves. I am only using neem , soap and liquid copper on moms. Vegging plants get neem and soap as a preventative. I will rotate Guardian or Spinosad or Horticultural oil as preventatives. I'm post infection and am focusing on plant health with chitins in the soil ( crab meal , defensor chitin creating bacteria) watering with uncoated aspirin , foliar sprays etc. ACT's. There are things that activate a plants immune system. The healthier your plants , the stronger it's immune system . Part of the discussion , particularly segueing into duds , is that newer hybrids don't have the immune systems of older strains closer to land race. That Guardian defense spray can be used in flower and is non toxic. I have no personal experience using it against broads. I treat all " cooking" soil with crab meal and Caps OG Biowar. Haven't used chemicals in a year and am on my 4th generation of cloning all moms. I put my worst moms outdoors and they bounced back. Something about the earth and sun. Took new cuts and started again. I fought nematodes this way.
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