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About Phyto

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    Learning Grower
  • Birthday 11/18/1953

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  1. Nice work Fuzz. I'm a fan of 250W grows. Perfect size for personal use w/ reasonable investment. No odor control? Phyto
  2. Oldbootz: Thanks. Gotta love LST. Sannie: It's been a great cab - homemade. Real stealth. I've had the furnace guy and plumber in the same room, no worries. Phyto
  3. Phyto

    Phyto's Den

  4. Wish I could have posted more frequently on this report. Family affairs - way too busy. The plants have filled out nicely. I've been following Useless' 3 part regimen fed once per week and have to say it works very well across these 3 strains. In week 4 they looked a little hungry so they were fed twice. Lately it looks like I could cut back on the N a little but they still look good. The Extrema sprouted a good week after the Shackzilla and Lady Cane but after 2 weeks I fed all from the same formulation. The 2 Shackzilla are in the foreground. The Extrema and Lady Cane in in back, left and right respectively. They went into 12/12 on April 11. Buds are beginning to put on weight and and leaves are starting to show crystals. This is my 4th grow and it is the best so far. I attribute that to Useless' formula and some quality seeds. Previous grows were from bag crap. Thanks for reading my grow report Phyto
  5. Thanks for all your replies Use. Looking over my posts, it may seem as if I'm being critical. Not my intent at all. Thinking about all that oxygenated water- I bet the solution temps could withstand a fair increase with no harmful consequence. Not that you want to... I'm just sayin' Regards, Phyto
  6. Good info on the air pump watt(s)/gal. Have not seen that before. I didn't make myself clear on the pump question; sometimes I don't write too good Your reply confirmed that you're recirculating the solution 9x/hr. Is that a reasonable rate? Intuitively it seems like a lot for that size footprint but just don't know. I suppose all that action helps with dissolved O. Any thoughts? I have background as a CE but spent career as a geodetic surveyor. Now retired. Regards, Phyto
  7. You make it seem all so easy Useless. Thanks for sharing Few questions though (I'm a dirt grower but trying to learn about hydro) The connector pipes seem to be a couple inches above the bottom of the tote thereby leaving a fair amount of solution remaining after res pumpout/change. That's not a concern? I like the idea of this setup on a little smaller scale. Is there a rule of thumb of how much air to incorporate per given amount of solution? Likewise a pump size per given amount of solution. I figure you've got about 90 gal of capacity with maybe half that displaced by the buckets. I can do the math from your gear description but it sounds as if you're using stuff already on hand. What is the temp of the air on the intake side. I'm almost amazed that you can keep the solution cool with infused air. As I think about it, that's probably a parameter to my question about how much air to incorporate. Finally, could one use this setup continuously through veg and flower? (Hope that's not a dumb question) Thanks Phyto Edit: I like to drill plastic with forstner bits backed up by a wood block. Real clean hole. You can get a 1 13/16" at Woodworkers Supply for $11- Catalog no. 828-951.
  8. I just went through that calculation exercise for a 600 watt 3x4x6 enclosed cabinet that I am considering. In my case I considered the desired temp difference between incoming and exhausting air (using a ducted hood), and the static pressure loss imposed by the filter and ducting. I found that the can fan 4"HO and can 33 filter (with ducting) will deliver 109 cfm of filtered air. That should equate to a 20 degree temp difference, which I believe good to cool the light and will exchange the cab air 1.5 times/min. Matching the filter to the fan is one of the most important things you can do if odor control is important. Too fast and there isn't sufficient contact time for the carbon to 'wash' the air. Too slow and you compromise cooling. With a 1000W light a can 6" with a can 33 filter will deliver 156 cfm of filtered air. Your ducting scheme will reduce that maybe 0.3"of sp loss to 115 cfm. The calculation I use results in a temp difference of 10 degrees. You have plenty of capacity to turn it down as webeblzr says and may even have room to go to a lower size fan. It's all about the individual fan performance curve. I'm not promoting Can; they're just the one who provide matching data. All my calculations are from various web sources, some anecdotal, others well documented. It worked very well for my 250W cabinet but not sure how well it extrapolates to 600 or 1000W setups. I won't have any data to truth it out for a couple months.
  9. I gotta believe you have a good handle on the cost/yield parameters. I'm assuming 'easier' means less work i.e., time involved. So I vote A. I don't know if there's a clear consensus on horizontal vs. vertical yet.
  10. Any pic updates? I still don't think it was tmv because they were no other sign or symptoms (that I saw) other than the yellowing leaf. You should see some blistering, curling leaf, stunted growth, malformations. However on the chance it is a virus you cannot cure it or even mitigate it. It can also infect other plants in the yard, mostly in the Solanacae family. It can vector through insects, gardening tools, propagation and even seeds. It won't spread by air transmission but it can persist in the soil for many years. If you see any of the above signs or symptoms you should burn it. Phyto
  11. UFO-- Have you considered drip irrigation. Very inexpensive. I can buy 1/2 gal/hr emitters for 25 cents apiece. Tubing cost is minimal. They are pressure compensating so output is equal for up to 200 emitters. Use a garden hose from the water supply. You do have to use a pressure reducing valve; they are about $20 USD. Put a timer on it and you can have an automated system for about $60. Do a search on 'drip irrigation'. Plenty of tutorials out there. Put your pots in a tray over overflow. I just had a tray made up at a local sheet metal shop for $50. It's probably just as easy to buy an ebbb and flow tray- Here they are about $40 for 22" x 44". I would plumb them to drain to waste if you have a floor drain available. 56 plants in an apartment?. DQ makes a good point about the smell. Watering seems like the least of your problems. Good luck Phyto
  12. Focal-- I have a feeling your soil is going to migrate and 'silt in' the spaces in between the hydroton. You could have some roots sitting in perpetually saturated soil. If you start to see a problem I would inspect the roots immediately. It may still be salvageable. I get Sacred's point: If it ain't broke don't fix it. But sometimes, just sometimes: If it ain't broke, break it. Good luck. Phyto Edit: As I think it about it, it'll mostly be the fine particles within the hydroton. I'm not sure that will be enough to invoke a capillary action throughout promix layer. But I would keep a close eye on the moisture level.
  13. Hey Panic-- Triploid refers to three copies of chromosomes. Cannabis has 2 sets (diploid) although for a complete life cycle involving sexual reproduction it will alternate between haploid (one set) and diploid, as do all plants. Plant geneticists cause polyploidism in a lot of cultivated plants because they are larger and higher yielding (but evidently not so with cannabis as Useless points out). They're also sterile and do not bear seeds. I had no idea this had been tried with cannabis. Phyto
  14. I haven't any direct experience but there was an exhaustive thread a while back on icmag http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=93829 Once you get past the bickering there was decent science explained but not a lot of emperical data. What I got from it: UVB is dangerous! Tissue damage occurs quickly and is cumulative, notably retinal damage and skin cancer. Have your light(s) switched so you can enter the cabinet or room safely. There is compelling evidence of the efficacy of UVB spectrum as a supplement to HID lighting. The exception is CMH lighting which already contains useful amounts of the UVB wavelength. The light must be in the 290-320 nm range to be effective. More is not better: Maximum is 225 microwatts per cm2, minimum is 50 microwatts per cm2. The UVB source can be externally ballasted but they are expensive. A widely available effective flouro lamp is the Reptisun; which come in two outputs, 5 and 10 %. There is some disagreement about how close the lamps need to be mounted to be effective. In my mind this is the single most unresolved issue. I'm interested in how these details compare with others who are using it. Regards, Phyto
  15. Focal—Forgot to respond in the spirit your topic requested. I used Botannicare PBP Grow and Bloom supplemented with Liquid Karma. according to the directions on the label. I vegged for 4 weeks and upped the dose weekly. Botanicare provides for several phases: seedling, young veg, mid veg, mature veg,, transition and flowering. They recommend feeding with every watering although I fed twice, ph’d water once using LK every time. Vigor was generally good. A few times they looked a little tired and I would give them a little jolt with Miracle Gro ¼ strength. I didn’t use any other additives. My last grow yielded 223 grams of dried bud under a 250W – 2.5 gal pots, commercial grade potting mix w/ no nutes added. I’m not averse to enhanced mixes; I use them for annuals and vegetables all the time. It was just what I had at the time. Phyto
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