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Roodni

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Posts posted by Roodni


  1. Happy new year Beach :wave:

     

    I did an indoor run recently (unusual for me) and my Choc rain looked v similar. Took over with its vigorous wimpy branches (had to snap the main stem and tie 90 degrees twice) and yielded nicely!

    It's got a super pleasant high that I find satisfying even though it doesn't hit me like most strains do, so it's good for working or "stealth situations" with canna-disapproving relatives and such :P

     

    Everything looks superb as always! :dribble:

    • Like 1

  2. All the best to you Sannie, I hope things go more smoothly.

     

    I've read about your SSH being rough to clone before, but it must be worth it.

    SP, SZ and SF are all heavyweight strains in all depts, and the SSH phenos contain so much of some terpene that it condenses on the inside of the jars that contain them :o this terpene makes the BHO made from them v unstable (sticky/gooey) :P


  3. Looking great dude!

     

    It probably depends on your soil and environment, but I would put them all in minimum 2 L pots for sexing personally. You may find the pots you're in restrict their growth if you wait for them to show sex before up-potting, but if all goes smoothly it'll probably be fine.

     

    One of my two Jackberry phenos was probably my all-time favourite plant effects-wise. Wish I could have some to compare with Anesthesia, 'cos I think it's similar but sliiightly more satty. Definitely keen to buy more Jackberry seeds and try the Madberry in the future :D

    • Like 1

  4. @Shoeless do you have any experience with other coil-style vapes/could you give a comparison?

     

    I have a KISS cartridge for stealthy vaping but it doesn't do it for me. Think I must be doing something wrong though cos people claim it to be almost as good as a rig...

     

    @Hillcrest nice one. I actually thought I'd wasted my money after trying the Mighty for the first time, but it just took a bit of getting used to. One thing that I find almost essential is a bubbler attachment. If I'm not vaping frequently/taken a little break, I'll cough and won't appreciate the flavour, but with the bubbler it really moistens/cools the vapour and makes the whole experience a lot more enjoyable for me.


  5. Hey Hillcrest,

     

    I am not a master BHO maker, but I went through a similar change recently by converting to vaporising and I thought you might appreciate my experiences.

     

    I recently stopped smoking my bud (~2 months) upon starting to smoke >5 spliffs/day mainly for health reasons.

    I immediately started to consume less weed because the vape high is much clearer, and I no longer got any cravings from the tobacco I added to my spliffs.

    It has ruined spliffs for me -- I can't bear to burn weed anymore unless I'm with a group of non-vapers (almost everyone sigh...).

     

    From my research into vapes, Dr Dabber is a con company that pays the High Times off for advertising them as the best vape pen. I found a site with actual user reviews of Dr Dabber pens, and everyone was there to complain -- "the only place my comments aren't deleted" "pen arrived broken" "atomizers only work when doing xyz" etc...

     

    I have 3 vapes, 2 of them being convection vapes that I love, the third a coil-style cartridge that screws into an e-cig mod. If you are vaping e-juice already, I don't see why you would buy a pen -- the KISS cartridge I have cost peanuts, and does the same thing as the pens except you have the battery life and power control of the mod. One can have possibly 50-100 sessions with a one-battery mod on such a device before having to charge.

     

    Now, I have barely used this device tbh. My original plan was to make lots of both an indica-dom and sat-dom shatter (I did, but a friend with closed-loop system helped with all expertise on oil production) and get high mainly through vaping oil. My first vape I purchased is the Mighty vape by Storz & Bickel (who make the Volcano), which is primarily a convection vape. This vape works v well for bud, and for concentrates you use a SS pad that absorbs the oil and releases it as it is vaped over a session. The problem is that the pad tends to hold onto the oil, making actually finishing a session difficult (so there will be some old oil/residue in the pad after a session). This need to either clean the pad, or to finish off kinda stale oil from the previous session was off-putting for me, so I pretty much just use it for bud.

    I then bought my KISS cartridge coil-style vape and e-cig mod, but for me I find this experience lacks what I enjoy about consuming cannabis recreationally. It would be perfect for someone super on-the-go who needs the medicinal benefits though. Thing is, it doesn't taste as good as the Mighty, nor put out as much vapour without increasing the harshness of the vapour.

     

    My latest vape, and should be my last purchase, is the VapeXhale Cloud Evo. This thing is the absolute master of vaping IME, and most especially for concentrates. It is like the experience of a 3-course meal finished with a chillum but in 15s and without health drawbacks. It offers greater resolution into experiencing the flavour and even effects of your bud/oil.

     

    The major factor governing the decision to opt for coil-style or convection is price and convenience of vaping. Coil-style vapes are typically 1/10 - 1/5 the price of convection style vapes, and come in smaller sizes/use less battery power. For vapour quality and overall experience though, a convection-style vape will provide a lot more satisfaction.

     

    I actually prefer vaping bud a lot of the time cos it's just a fresher, whole/minimally-processed product and as such carries subtleties lost in the oil production process. Also, my oils are mixes of strains, and I have favourite strains :)

    • Like 2

  6. I recently purchased a Mighty portable vape after starting to smoke too many spliffs too often for my liking (health-wise). The Mighty cost a small fortune (especially for us saffers) and I was so bleak with my first few sessions - got me high, but it just wasn't tasty or super effective.

     

    However, I persevered quickly got to using it properly, and I have only rolled two spliffs since buying it ~1.5-2 months ago. I just can't comprehend burning my beautiful weed anymore. I have never been able to taste weed properly when burned; some weed just tasted less bad, and at best had a note of a dominant terp. In the vape, I can actually taste the full spectrum of terps, and it even changes slightly over a session as the more volatile terps are vaped off.

    I quickly returned to our vape store and bought a bubbler attachment, which vastly improved the experience. Because the vapour from the Mighty is quite hot -- especially due to it being a convection-style vape where the air you draw is heated and vapes the cannabinoids -- the bubbler cools it down by using energy to vaporise some water which then irritates your throat less due to the higher humidity and lower temp. There is some slight sacrifice in flavour with the bubbler, but it is worth it for comfort, as you can't enjoy the flavour as much if you are coughing :D

     

    My most recent purchase is a desktop vape, the Vapexhale Cloud Evo, with their own style of glassware attachment (the Hydratube :lol:)

     

    gallery_4870_6046_1320430.jpg

    From left to right: Bubbler attachment for Mighty, the Mighty, Hydratube attachment for Vapexhale, Vapexhale Cloud Evo

     

    The Vapexhale is the best cannabis experience I've had to date. The amazing power means you can draw air through the unit -- which is essentially a glass tube heated from the outside -- and Hydratube with the same ease as a nice bong (I never did bongs, only spliffs..). The Hydratube fills with dense vapour that is so perfectly "moisture conditioned" that it is a pure flavour sensation. Strong, intense flavour that almost changes throughout an exhalation with its complexity.

     

    Laughing at the idea of smoking 0.5g bubble chillums when dabbing 0.03g of shatter too. Also, since I struggle to tolerate the idea of combusting my cannabis and terps now I much prefer the convection vape which heats the dab up evenly and without burning it as I have found the titanium nails do. Each dab is kinda like one big puff, and is beautiful. The last bit is always a bit burnt, but even if inhaled will be overwhelmed by the sweet/savour flavours of the oil.

     

    The vapes are at least twice as efficient as combusting in a well-rolled spliff as well, so they are investments that pay off in the long run.

    • Like 4

  7. Yo Damar,

     

    Didn't get a chance to read everything but what I did read and see is really fantastic!

    Amazing to put in so much consistent work and carry out such a plan and have it go so well :)

     

    Dig the organic approach, just been too lazy to actually put my PVC pipes n joints and get a proper pump together to brew a tea :P but there is much to be said for dank compost and layering with worm castings when anything goes bad ^_^

    • Like 1

  8. Lookin' fantastic dude.

    I'd also be keen on a nice piney strain. Only one I've ever had super piney was LA Confidential. Tasted awesome...

     

    I've been having the chase the resident squirrels away - sneaky fuckers trying to bury their nuts in my pots :D Kinda worried they're going to seriously screw up my gal's root systems!

    • Like 1

  9. My yucca extract from Sannie ran out a a couple of weeks ago and I've been using fresh aloe from the plant instead.

    Stuff works great---it definitely helps the soil to accept and retain moisture, and my plants seem to really be digging it after about 3 waterings...

     

    Question is, how much fresh leaf should I be using per say 10 L (2.5 gal)?

     

    So far I've been winging it at around ~6 cm (2.4 inches) of a fat section of leaf/10 L (or double that for the skinnier tips) at every watering.

    The cocopeat/wormcastings/perlite-based mix that I'm using seems to make overwatering rather easy, and leaving it too long between waterings causes it to become hydrophobic, hence using the aloe at every watering.

     

    Also, the juices are quite a mission to crush and extract from inside the leaf. Kinda difficult to get the snotty stuff dispersed in the liquid too. Any suggestions...?


  10. Doesn't sound half bad Hobbs.

     

    I am fortunate to have been more blessed in this ridiculous system we live in, and bought the fancy equipment while renting. While I can say that the control of indoors is fun, I have packed away my tents and put the girls outside. So much less paranoid now that I won't be caught with a canna 'lab', and I love the outdoors; beats sitting inside looking at girls under a funny colour light with glasses on anyday! Also, all that electricity comes from mining and burning coal... What a fucked up world...

     

    If your plan works out, you'll get to spend time with them in a forest! That's like combining two of my favourite activities :P If the soil's decent, you will probably need to worry most about pests getting to them. Our friend Saxo should have some guerrilla wisdom for you.

     

    Keep us posted.

    • Like 1

  11. Good stuff guys.

     

    Worms appear because their eggs are in the soil. if you buy castings and DON'T see worms appear, then I'd be skeptical about how 'alive' those castings are...

    pH down won't kill microbes. In most bioprocesses the pH is regulated to ensure that the pH is in the range preferred by the microbes. Doesn't matter if you use strong or weak acid/base, unless you start adding too much of elements like sodium into the soil.

     

    @just.blaze, in organic growing, the point is that the microbes should be doing the work. Proper organic growing is facilitated by a consortium of microbes that live in symbiosis with the plants and their environment, so they should be self-regulating. So like n2ishun is saying, the teeny details don't matter. Mix good soil, let it sit for a bit and check whether there's some worms in there. It could be a bit hot, or too weak, but then adjust for next time. However, if you are just using a straight soil mix and bottled nutes, you may have to be a bit more careful with things like pH, cos your community may be lacking. The strength of mixed microbial communities comes from having a large diversity, which comes from having good compost (and letting those microbes spread to the more inert soil components).

    • Like 1

  12. Thanks for the input guys!

     

    I'm relieved that the consensus is that leaving them to develop will be better. I prefer letting nature take its course, but like the rest of us I want to get the best yield of the best quality possible. I think that 'why' was pretty explicit in my post ;)

     

    That's some good info there San! Unfortunately I can't really move indoors again in my situation for winter, so I won't be able to test them so thoroughly. However, I will pollinate lower branches of all my plants with pollen from my favourite HK, Anna & CBH males' pollen in my freezer. Unfortunately the seemingly studly SJ male I had was a full blown hermie!

     

    I'll start a thread when things get interesting enough for my lazy ass to document.

    • Like 2

  13. Hi Guys, I'm back again for more advice :head_hurts_kr:

     

    I'm currently growing 6 strains outdoors (in South Africa) in 50 L pots, including Sugar Punch (I'll post up a grow journal as soon as I get some nice pics of them ;) ). The average plant height is about 1.5 m.

     

    The fuckup is that one of my Sugar Punches started flowering far earlier than expected---while I was on holiday---and while I still had a bunch of flowering males around (some amateur selection).

    She was pollinated, but thankfully rather early on, and only the preflower at each node was pollinated. Still, this means that each of her 20-odd branches have around 15 seeds developing, and judging by the early (very mild) P & K deficiencies she showed before a transplant, it's sapping a fair amount of her resources.

     

    My question is: will removing the developing seeds cause more harm than good i.e. cause her to throw male flowers?

     

    I've got a picture of a younger side branch below. Buds are still developing, but ~300 seeds is sure to be quite a drain...

     

    gallery_4870_5349_542229.jpg

     

     

    Opinions/experience?

    • Like 1

  14. Thanks for the quick reply.

     

    That really is an easy recipe :P My starting pH is usually around 7.5-8, and the last time I made a tea I tried pHing before starting. What is obvious is that the microbes buffer the pH to a large extent, which is why I'm concerned about adding a tea with a high pH to my pots. I remember my first tea was at pH of about 8. and I used about 80 drops or something ridiculous of H3PO4 solution to get it down to 7 (vs ~6 drops for the same volume of tapwater). IMO this is the evidence that the right microbes will easily buffer against the relatively low alkalinity of my tapwater.

    I think the high pH is an indicator that I've got and imbalance in the microbes present.

     

    Are you just using a bucket with an airstone in it? And for how long do you let it brew?

    I think I'll give your recipe a shot. I'm really looking forward to getting this right as I know the NPK are in my pots, but it seems that it's not always accessible. Probably also got to do with me not letting the soil cook, but I figure a tea will speed things up.


  15. Yo Dude, just wanted to say thanks for posting your drying/curing tech. I dried for the first time in my flower tent and the airflow got the outside crispy (with the stems still soft) in 6 days with temps of ~22 C/~50 %RH which got me worried, so I'm glad to have had your method to fall back on. I was wondering whether you always wait until the stems are fully dry and snap with just a little flexing before jarring?

     

    I've tried to make an ECT tea a couple of times now, but each time the pH is around 7.2-7.9 after 2 - 3 days. I get worried about giving it to my girls since the tea also ends up a lot better buffered than tap water. I've read that this is due to having too high a bacteria/fungi ratio, so the last tea I made using just humic acids, EWC and some kelp extract. The pH still ended up at ~7.2 though, any suggestions or advice? What recipe do you go by?

     

    The hybrid x's sound very interesting and are looking good!

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