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DocGee

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About DocGee

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  1. Yeah, not a lot of call for it in coastal SoCal, apparently. I could drive 20 miles inland, where there's more farming.
  2. Finally just went to my hydro store when I couldn't find food grade DE listed in stock anywhere local. The clerk, good guy who always helps me out, walked me around and we couldn't find any. (The shop just moved, so he's still learning where everything is now, too.) Then he suggested I try Gnat Nix and even cut me a deal on it. The Gnat Nix is just a top dressing that acts as a barrier to females laying eggs and to pupae emerging. It's not actively shredding both adults and young like DE does. But it also does not stay wet and it stays on top of the soil as long as you water gently through it. Not wanting to wait for an online shipment of DE, I'm trying the Gnat Nix. But the DE is also cheap, so I'll add it on Amazon when I need to round out an order for free shipping. I've probably already knocked out most of the infestation with the other things I've done. Mostly I'm just sad to see my mother plant, the worst infestation, not yet turning around.
  3. Oh crap, I didn't know they would go after buds like that. Is this when they are still growing or later when they're drying? Lots of gnat management errands tomorrow....
  4. Yes, sand is another recommended approach, a layer of 1/4" or so. It dries out quickly so is a poor host medium, and it provides a barrier that prevents adults from burrowing into the moist soil below to lay eggs. I even saw someone mention to use colored aquarium sand just for fun.
  5. (Duplicate post removed)
  6. These are by far not the first gnats I have had in a grow, but in the past it was usually one or two at a time. This reinforced my misperception that they were harmless. This is the first time I have diagnosed an infestation killing a plant, and the first time I have seen them flying in larger numbers for many days. I suspect, however, that I have missed less severe infestations in the past, mistaking them for a nutrient or pH issue. The clones that were effected showed damage I will now recognize in the future: I probably had four with light infestations, but the good news with clones is you can see very clearly when they turn around. They green up, firm up, and their vigor returns much more quickly. As I searched away for various natural and on-hand remedies, I have now also sprinkled cinnamon and cayenne on the soil, so when I stir up the top layer few if any gnats fly out. They seemed to hang out at the ceiling, not having anywhere to reproduce, and then found the fly ribbons overnight. I also tried the vinegar jar trap, but screwed that up. I only had white vinegar on hand, where the usual recommendation is cider vinegar. Then I had the brainstorm of adding a spoonfull of apple butter from the far back of my fridge. Should have read the label first to see the cinnamon. My fallback now is the partial bottle of EcoSmart Garden Insect Killer that I forgot I had, but I may not need it. It worked very nicely in spider mites a couple years ago, and my reading says the combination of oils both repels adults and kills larvae. Long term I think I'll plan to include distomaceous earth in future grows. That sounds like a great, safe preventative for any insect infestation of soil... As long as you don't use beneficial insects, which the stuff will shred just as easily as it does gnats. Mordanius, that macro photo is just blurred, making the trichs look cloudy. I just do not have a steady hand for max enlargement iPhone shots. They are still almost 100% clear under a loupe. Even the oldest generations of buds I crammed my head into. Soon I face the choice of chopping her in time to be dry enough for curing jars, letting her hang drying a week extra, or letting her keep going while I am away for Thanksgiving. With such dense buds, and beach humidity, they should not get crunchy from hanging a solid 10 days. At least the leaves are finally yellowing after two flushes in two weeks.
  7. Mordanius, what are you seeing that says over-watering, except for the clawed leaf tips? None of these plants have ever had the over-broad leaves I usually see from over-watering, and I often wait to water until the plant is drooping a tiny bit. (And dry for two inches or so in the large pots. It's a little harder with new clones to let them dry out quite that much.) The mother was a gorgeous and lush plant until it started showing sort of rumpled, slightly twisted leaves. (All of these flowering plants were taken from her at least three months ago when she was flourishing.) Shortly after, I realized I was seeing too many gnats and went to school on that problem. I've had a couple gnats now and then, but never an infestation. Her roots are clearly in bad shape, but foliar spray with plain water is keeping her alive and actually producing some growth while I get the adults and larvae killed off. (I started off with a liquid BT, bacillus thurengiensis, than switched to ground up Mosquito Dunks after reading comments saying they work better than the liquid.) I don't doubt the single leaves in the bud are due to stress. That small plant clearly did experience excess nitrogen, just not for as long as her older sister. Nothing in my flower room has any indication of pests, though, and before I understood the clawing I was all over the leaves with a magnifier. (More recently the soil, as well, at least in the veg room.) Though it does not show well in that picture, the cola is approaching 3 inches in diameter, 6 inches in length, and going strong with lots of new pistils. Honestly she should be wicked pot bound by now: she's a way better plant than I deserve, especially as I almost tossed her to make room in my veg space. Relative humidity here by the beach is typically 55 to 65. My new hygrometer read 56 straight from the package a few days ago. Temperatures are pretty comfortable in the grow room, since about half my lighting is LED's. Probably high 70's during the day, maybe 80 within a few inches of the fluorescent tubes, but absolutely comfortable on the hand. Nights are just starting to go into the high 60's sometimes, but mostly it's about 70 when I wake up. Fresh air circulates constantly from a fan. I only worry about heat stress during the summer, but this summer was mostly mild so these plants have seen no more than 3-5 days of heat stress in their lives. Medipuffs, I have to respect your status as a "Super Grower," but I'm also about 10 days into the BT for larvae and fly ribbons for flying adults. I think the flyers are slowing down, but I also know more will keep emerging if they were past Stage 1 larvae when I started the BT. I'll have to keep up the BT for several weeks. Do you have any insight about how your drench compares? I'm hesitant to switch approaches now, but if I ever let things get this far out of hand again, I'll keep yours in mind.
  8. I have been growing out Mad Scientist (feminized) since June of 2016, and am pretty happy with her so far. I have a beautiful mother, or had, until the fungus gnat problem in my veg room became obvious. I think / hope I'm winning now. So far my flowering room is clear, but I'm going hardcore preventive in there. (Five gnats on the fly ribbon in five days does not worry me, but she's still getting BT with eqch watering.) When I put my first plant into flower in mid-August, it eventually was clear that she had been exposed to too much nitrogen, given the dark green and the clawing leaves. My flowering nutes had caused her pH to drift down, too. (Note to self: check water pH after adding nutes, not before.) Both of those are fixed now and the plant is finishing well enough: modest anticipated yield of dense, frosty buds, though smaller than her sister a few weeks younger. Her lower leaves are finally yellowing after two good flushes and no more nutes. (She's already into overtime, at 11+ weeks, but the pistils keep emerging and the trichs are still clear.) Now my sea of green, four Mad Scientist in one 5 gallon pot, has shown the clawed leaf tips, too. She does not have the intense green. I am sure: she has had little added nitrogen; she never had a pH problem; and I don't believe I have over-watered her (though the gnats in my veg room might suggest I have a heavy hand at times). In fact, I have been so sparing with nitrogen that these plants have claws on the upper leaves while the lower leaves are yellowing. My questions for any who have grown this strain: Is Mad Scientist oversensitive to nitrogen? Does she just claw naturally? I'm using a good soil recommended at the shop (Malibu composted potting soil), but perhaps it can be a little hot? https://www.opengrow.com/uploads/gallery/album_5744/gallery_6227_5744_86331.jpeg https://www.opengrow.com/uploads/gallery/album_5744/gallery_6227_5744_45856.jpg https://www.opengrow.com/uploads/gallery/album_5744/gallery_6227_5744_684415.jpeg
  9. Early on, when I was just trying things out to learn, I grew several rounds of autoflowering dwarf species in a very primitive setup that included a tote and LCD's. It was big enough for about six plants, so smaller than the one you have in mind, I think. Tended properly, you get a nice little 18" tall sea of green - like a screen of green, but made up of multiple plants - without a whole lot of trimming or training. At best I got 3 ounces that I was pretty pleased with from one grow. For those who mentioned computer tower grows, this what they use. I enjoyed playing with these dwarfs, and the autoflowering trait means your entire plant's lifecycle - not just the flowering cycle - is 10-ish weeks. It compressed a lot of experience for me, but I also learned soil and pest issues the hard way: with a short-lived plant, there is very little time to recover once a plant shows symptoms. Good luck.
  10. The color shows up a little too green in my images, so the plant looks better off than it is. She's still basically okay (a "B-" grade, IMHO, but she was an "A" plant previously). She'll probably improve in the next couple weeks, but she's not "pretty great" at the moment. In hindsight I enjoyed a lot of beginners' luck on this plant, both during her first grow and getting her into reveg easily. I have had a few more attempts since this one that did not go/are not going so well. A couple failed outright and fairly quickly. One that I was about to give up on has taken about 6 weeks to show its first "mutant" leaf. That has only appeared after a last-ditch effort to get the plant closer and under more light than the first successful one (same strain) needed. None of those plants were as hardy during their first cycles as this one currently in reveg. On a couple of these failures I may have shocked the plants too much (or infected them) during harvest by pruning off some major limbs (1/8 to 1/4 inch stalks) instead of just taking their individual buds and smaller branches. One may be the end of the line for my Sannie's Jack, but at least I have an ounce curing from the first harvest, and I still hope to find a few seeds there.
  11. I've been lazy about updates on this thread, but here's where things are currently: The first photo shows a bad close-up of trichomes at 3 weeks into revegetation... you can just see that mine went purple instead of amber, which was pretty cool. The rest are current views of the plant at about 6 weeks into flower now. She's had some setbacks, but appears to be on an okay - not outstanding - path now. I tried to flush her, both to address a low pH issue and get rid of accumulated salts from the first grow, a couple weeks after she was clearly doing well in reflower. Unfortunately, I dropped her big clay pot in the bathtub and had to scramble to repot her with something I had on hand. Total root volume is probably 85% of previous, and I did a pretty shoddy job tearing off excess root ball by hand as I stood in a muddy tub to get her into the new pot. Strictly speaking, I know she would like a bigger home, more root ball trimmed, then some additional new soil. Realistically I think that will all wait for the next cycle. It's going to take at least one more full, deep watering cycle to get her pH back in range, but she's doing pretty well for a plant that has undergone so much stress already.
  12. Really pleased with my first grow of a Sannie's Freebie, Killing Fields Chinese x Killing Fields F7, I'm trying to get her to produce through a new cycle. This is my first re-veg effort. She's been on 24/0 light since mid-April and is showing some nearly normal growth after the "mutant" stuff that comes out of the remaining buds in early re-veg. The plan is to continue tying her down to keep her spreading, which worked out great in her first life. I also need some clones to keep my perpetual grow going: I'll harvest these from the top of the plant to keep her final size under control again.
  13. In my own limited experience, early samples (this is WAY early, like 8 weeks into flower for a plant that is supposed to take 12) yielded a very sativa, almost too-wired high. That sativa plant matured into a much more balanced high, without a serious edge like the early samples, but still very clearly sativa. My "first harvest" of some pretty mature upper buds from one plant was at about 10 weeks. All other signs (growth rate; fully wilted/retracted pistils; leaves yellowing off in maturity) said the bud was ready, but it still had mostly clear trichomes with few or no amber. I harvested the rest of that plant over the following 2 weeks, without having seen a very appreciable increase in frosted/amber trichomes. The biggest difference in taste/aroma has come through extended curing, really showing off splendidly after about 8 weeks. I'd like to think my nice aromatic bud also got more potent, but I've been delighted with the results all along and honestly don't know if I could tell the difference between newer top shelf bud and more aged stuff from the same plant. I put the same plant back into reveg and, even with the extended time for the small buds left behind, it probably took another 3-4 weeks under 24/0 for them to start showing significant amounts of "amber" trichomes... except that particular plant went to purple trichs.
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