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Blue B

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About Blue B

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    Just Sprouted

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    Norway
  1. How do you know your last engines are working better? What is working better about them exactly? Are you growing the same strain with the new engines? Which leds did you use for your last engines, brand, wattage, wavelength etc. I've now built a few led lights myself and have been experimenting. I've tried the LedEngin leds and so far your configuration has proven to be the best. I haven't tried exactly what you have only because I'm curious about trying other wavelength combinations that haven't been done yet. Where do you get your 7 led engine pcb boards and lenses at? I found a place but they are a little on the pricey side. The 10w emitters I've been using are not as efficient, but ease of setup is great. So far my flowering led light isn't working. It consists of 1 blue 460nm in the middle, 4 warm white(contains 630nm, and 4 deep red 660nm. The plants are not reacting to the light at all even after 2 weeks. Any guesses as to why? I figured there wasn't enough blue in the mix, but I do not know for sure. The veg light I have is working quite well. It is just red and blue leds, but I also have a 50w cfl off to the side and it helps. I'm starting to think that my strains are just not adapted to led spectra. Is this possible? Where are you at in your experiments? My next light I will be using the same white/red/deep red ratio as you did with the Luxeon Rebel leds. I want to see if I get similar plant reactions or see if it's possible the strains I have are not adapted well. How did you know the Critical's you grew would do so nicely under leds? Peace
  2. Hey that's cool, I just finished crossing the Lemon Skunk and NYCD as well! I just saw your post here for the first time. It will be interesting to see how my buds compare with yours. I purchased 15 NYCD seeds and half of them didn't sprout and the rest were males. So I kept the pollen and crossed it with Reserva Privada Sour Diesel, Lemon Skunk, DJS Blueberry, I think that's it. Anyway, I'm super excited to see how everything turns out. I love the blueberry, but it could have more terpene flavor so I'm hoping the nice terpene profile of the NYCD will get into the Blueberry and make it real nice.
  3. SS, I just wanted to give you a link to a site where Weezard has been using blue and red leds and getting amazing results with a bi-spectrum light fixture. He did say that a couple of strains he tried did not do well in flower under the red/blue only spectrum, but the strain he grows mostly loves the light spectrum for veg AND flower. Here is the link to the forum, it's only a page long. I also included a link to his photos of a finished plant and veg plant. forum: http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-lighting/198437-need-help-wavelength-spectrum-led.html veg plant: http://boards.cannabis.com/attachments/indoor-lighting/277335d1311109794-need-help-wavelength-spectrum-led-ledlit.jpg finished plant: http://boards.cannabis.com/attachments/indoor-lighting/277338d1311109818-need-help-wavelength-spectrum-led-pin-up.jpg so as you can see, some strains do very well under red/blue only spectrums. it's just not a good option for creating a "universal light spectrum" that would work for all plants. After seeing this guy's grows, I got inspired to make my own red/blue only light spectrum, but I will be adding some warm whites as you suggested to get the other wavelengths in there to balance out the spectrum a bit more and try to emulate that "universal spectrum" I am going for in order to grow whatever strain or plant I want to.
  4. If cost of the LEDs was not of imporance, and you could fine tune a DIY LED light to have 660nm + all the spectrum which is highly absorbed for photosynthesis at 600w, it does seem like a HPS would be beat. One nice thing LEDs have over a HPS lamp is they will last up to 10 years. HPS lamps only last 1 year of use. 10 years x average cost of HPS($75) = $750 Finely tuned $750, 600w LED light will have more useful light energy for the plants, so "in theory" should beat a HPS despite the lumenosity difference. If plants absorb 660nm better than 590nm then really lumenosity is of less importance to wavelength? HPS peaks around 590nm and even though the plants can adapt to using that wavelength for both Chloro A and Chloro B, 660nm is still much more efficiently absorbed? This seems to hold true in theory anyway. Your buds under the white/red LEDs look way better than any HPS grown buds that I've seen anyway. I would say that lumens do not matter as much as wavelength.
  5. ^^^^^^^^^^^ The efficiency part is very nice about LEDs in general. The reason I'm using the higher wattage, less efficient ones for now is just ease of wiring since fewer LEDs, also they are so much more efficient overall than a HPS or MH and create much less heat. I'm sure some day I will convert to the more efficient ones as they come out. Maybe sooner than later. Mainly, I am focusing on light spectrum right now and what it does to different strains and varieties of plants. I think that your Neutral/Red/Deepred mix is pretty dang close to perfect after seeing page 2 on here. Unless your arms are just really tiny and that's what makes the buds look huge. LOL I'm going to run with the extra Deep Reds and the pure blues that you suggested before with the warm whites for now. I may even add some pure red to the mix after reading about Quantum Yield energy being higher there. I was thinking the Warm Whites have some much yellow in them that they would have a high Quantum Yield as well, so not sure if the extra Red will be needed or not. What was your reasoning behind using the 630nm red? B
  6. Maybe you would have an increase in yield with a bump in LED power. 50w may just not have enough penetration to really get the density you are looking for. Not that I am in a position to give advice yet, what about trying these LEDs. They also make them in 3w and 5w. Apparently they use the same chip for all of their LEDs. Just mounted to a different board etc. Check these guys out: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LedEngin/LZ4-40R200/?qs=vmkU9SbkviTsSw07ej8hAOwXrUYDIHnYqQAQ2iT2ydY%3d http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LedEngin/LZ4-40WW00/?qs=vmkU9SbkviRNJVxOINHpdzf7N%252bjcU0k0c1sDe%252b02wOU%3d http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LedEngin/LZ4-40B200/?qs=vmkU9SbkviRo0SP3h6K5KveFDrQdOW97%252b2qmbRnrnnY%3d The lowest power I've been able to get away with so far and still keep nice tight buds is about 300w of light power using MH and LEDs mix. I get 1g/W with that mixture over a 1m x 1m area. My goal is to convert to all LEDs and keep the power under 200w. My emitters are on the way. Should be interesting! Also, without adding your lenses maybe you can get your plants closer to your lights to increase intensity. Without the lenses the light spectrum may have a chance to blend earlier up by the fixture. The LedEngine LEDs already have a lense degree of 90 and 95 degrees so you can get fairly good penetration without adding special additional lenses.
  7. Based on how nice your Critical's buds are from your 3 neutral, 1 red, 3 deep red mixture per engine, I would say you found the perfect mixture bro. Those buds are the nicest I've ever seen. So colorful and happy looking. The leaves on your buds reached towards the light during your whole grow. I would say it doesn't get much better than that. Why change anything? B
  8. The 10w Leds I'm using are 2.5w x 4 per led. They run at 700mA and are much more efficient than a 5w single chip Led. They put out 20% more lumens/W than the 5w Leds of the same manufacturer. In other words they are 220% brighter than the 5w leds that are single chip. The nice thing about them is less wiring for me. The issue I want to try and resolve is if it's possible to flower nicely with red/blue only (with a touch of green). So far I have seen promising results as long as there is enough red in the mixture. My Led configuration will consist of 4 x blue 460nm, 5 x warm white, 12 deep red 660nm. If the result is poor flowering, I will add 4 more pure 630nm Leds in the corners of the panel I build. Overall, it is a 5 x 5 matrix with 21 Leds or 180w as of now, and 4 more later if needed making 25 total, or 220w. The 10w leds are running at 73.5% of full power capacity.
  9. Silver Surfer, Could you please post a photo of your new veg fixture with the 2 x 660nm, 1 x cool white, 1 royal blue leds? I'm interested in seeing the color of the overall spectrum. I really appreciate your thread! Thank you so much for sharing. More updates! I'm getting ready to build my fixture soon. I have my heatsink and drivers. The warm white leds are out of stock, so I have to wait for them. My plan is to use 12 x 660nm, 5 warm white, 4 blue 460nm leds. I am really going back and forth about the leds. I can't decide if I should use only neutral white and 660nm deep red at 50/50 mix, OR use my original idea with the 12, 5, 4. I guess I'm thinking that the 5 warm white idea is not enough leds to give enough yellow/orange light to the 12red/4blue mixture. It also seems like the spectrum might be a bit "blue heavy" overall for flowering, but may work great for vegging. It also seems like 12 x 660nm might be way too much deep red. So that's why I'm thinking of just using 50/50 Neutral white/660nm Deep Red, kind of like what you did on page 1, but without the added 630nm single led. The white leds I will use have quite a bit more 630nm wavelength than yours so that's why I don't think the added pure 630nm led is necessary. BUT, at the same time, I still think it would be ok to add a blue 460nm in there like you suggested. This is where the problem occurs. My drivers can only handle up to 9 white leds. Or it can handle a combination of white and blue leds and add up to 9 because the white and blue leds use the same forward voltage. I'm using 2 identical drivers. I can run 12 Deep Red 660nm leds off of one driver. I can only run 9 white(or white/blue) with the other driver. I would like to run the drivers at max voltage, but it's not necessary which is what I'm guessing you will say. So, if I don't run the max voltage on the drivers, could you give me a suggestion on how many blue 460nm, warm white(or neutral white), and deep red 660nm I should run altogether? My reasoning behind the 4 blue, 5 warm white, and 12 deep reds was just to be able to use the drivers to their fullest potential. I have no problem turning the voltage down however. So this opens up more possiblilities in order to balance the spectrum correctly. I can buy a new driver that can be connected to a dimmer so I could dim the 12 x deep red 660nm as well. Then I could really boost up the 660nm towards the middle part of flowering. The number of each color leds is what I'm having trouble with. It really seems that the warm white or neutral white will be the "main" part of the spectrum. But, at the same time I was thinking of using the red/blue combination as the "main part of the spectrum where the warm white leds would add as suppliment for added green, yellow, orange wavelength. This may seem a bit confusing, but I hope you can understand the message I'm trying to convey and the questions I'm asking. The thing is, I've seen some really nice grows done all the way through flowering using only blue 460nm and red 660nm leds at a ratio of 1:5 blue to red ratio. Basically in my original design I would do 1:3 blue to red ratio and then add the warm white as supplement. I know you will disagree with this, but that is ok. I can link you to the guy who had good growth with the red/blue only spectrum. He also said that the spectrum would only work for 1 of his strains. For another strain it would not work because the plants did not grow quite right. Personally I'm finding that my Sativa dominant strains are doing better under a more blue/red only spectrum which is slightly blue heavier. My Indica's are not finishing the flowering process under this light spectrum. They are in need of more yellow/orange/red type of wavelength. I would like to try and make my light adjustable to accomodate Sativa or Indica, but it may not be possible.
  10. Silver Surfer, what did you decide was your best wavelength LEDs mixture of light? The 4000K Neutral White LEDs and the Red 630nm/660nm? What was the ratio between the 3 colors you found work best? I'm thinking of doing a LEDs build project. I can't decide if I want to use only red and blue leds or if I should mix in a white led like you have. I though maybe to use a 2700k White Led to increase the orange/red 630nm without having to use a seperate 630nm led, just 2700k whites and 660nm red at a 50/50 mix. The 4000K neutral white has more of a 440nm blue wavelength where as the 2700k white has a 460nm blue wavelength. I've thought about mixing the 660nm reds, the 2700k whites and the 4000k whites together to get the best of both blue wavelengths and still have all the rest of the white spectrum while boosting the deep red area. What do you think? Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much for all the help!
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