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Smidge34

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About Smidge34

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    Learning Grower

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    United States
  1. I can upload pics to my gallery but it will not let me copy the codes to the right of photo in order to embed in a post. I'm not sure if the site isn't optimized for iOS devices or what the deal is. I can get my cursor in the box, but it will not let me drag and highlight the text. Oh well.
  2. I have posted pics before, but forgot the process. Thanks man, I'll get some new pics in a bit just before lights on.
  3. Yeah I've got three different phenos day 48 since the flip. I would post up results so far and pics if I could figure out how. I can post to my gallery but can't figure out how to embed in post.
  4. Should be close to finished and I'd love to see some fresh pics, maybe get a report as I'm gonna run these April 1. I meant to run them Jan 1, but they got bumped. Thanks in advance.
  5. Smidge34

    General shit

    General shit
  6. Well I'll certainly do my part to grow out the cross that I received today with my order -- thanks Sannie. Not gonna lie, I was disappointed I didn't get the chocolate cheese fem I requested as freebee, but the more I think and study this cross, the more excited I am to try it and was lucky enough to get 3 beans if this cross. I'll run it in early-January when my current crop is harvested and report back. Thanks again Sannie!
  7. Thank you sir! Excellent genetics makes it look easy.
  8. I pulled the male and destroyed him after collecting enough pollen for my purposes and now I kinda wonder if that was a bad move. Nah, I'm not set up yet nor have the room to run a serious breeding program, but man he wound have been cool to keep around for future crossing. I used the term "breed" in my op, but I meant I just chucked some pollen and got lucky with it.
  9. I haven't had a "pot hangover" in 30 years from smoking, but I vaguely remember one! This plant is so strong you can taste the THC in your mouth when u exhale a big bong rip.
  10. I mix one part peat moss, one part ewc and one part perlite. For every cubic foot of mix I add a cup of agricultural lime and a cup of each: alfalfa meal, blood meal, bone meal, epsoma plantone organic fertilizer, soft rock phosphate and greensand. If I could locally source kelp meal, I'd add it in the mix as probably item #1, as it's high in potassium and all of the trace minerals. I thoroughly water the mix until it's about as "wet as a wrung out sponge", then fill large trash barrel with the mix and cover. I don't place the "cooking" barrel of mix out in direct sun. Nice and warm, but shaded is best. It's best if you have ewc tea already brewed and ready when you initially wet your new mix, to flood the mix with billions more microorganisms than were already contained in the castings and to some extent, the peat. They say to let it cook for 1-2 months and that's the best policy to give the mix time to break down and make available all the organic amendments added, but I've used it after only 2 weeks with great success, as it will continue to cool and break down. I like to add granular mycos directly to the planting hole, so as to assure direct contact of mycos with root system of new transplant. Again, I like to have a ewc tea prepared at this point to use as a transplant drench, so as to add a new crop of workers on the scene. That's it. I add a tsp of molasses per gal of water once in early to mid-veg and once in mid bloom, with the rest being water only. I do like to keep a nice layer of mulch made of some kind of organic material in my pots and I practice no-till by not disturbing the soil surface after transplant. After harvest I ease back the mulch and cut the stalk off level with soil surface. At this point the soil mix in my airports is still plenty "hot" for another run, so I gently dig out a hole between the old stalk I just cut and the air pot's edge, removing and disturbing only enough soil to complete new transplant. I probably should add a different myco at this point, directly to roots at transplant, but the existing rootball and system already in the container will do nicely. I then add a thin layer of fresh castings, less than 1/2", and mulch thickly. I like to make and apply an SST -- seed sprout tea from barley or most any kind of seed -- to add enzymes to help further break down and make nutrients and trace elements available to the plant. I read about guys continuing to no till and continue mulching and using ewc teas for more grows, but I found a drop off after the second grow in 7.5 gallons, so I dump my old mix into my kiddie pool and re-amend the soil with all the above amendments at 1/2 cup each. I like to alternate containers at this point and some with soil that has been cooking during the last two grows, while the re-amended mix get wet down, preferably with ewc tea and sets for two cycles itself. One last note is down the road I think my base above of peat, ewc and perlite, with lime added to buffer the acidic peat, will remain constant, but I'd like to amend with alfalfa meal, kelp mean, crab meal, fish meal, neem meal, Azomite and granite dust.
  11. I've introduced myself, but this is my first real post after a few years of lurking. Here's some shots of a cross I made outdoors last year from one of my favorite JBF4 phenos crossed with a kick ass CCK male. He stunk it up even in veg and had more trichomes than I've seen on a male plant, so even though I don't normally breed, I had to collect a little of his pollen and cross it not only with the Jackberry pheno, but two different CCK phenos, making some F2 version CCKs. Anyway, this pheno of the Jackberry crossed with the CCK has completely taken over my indoor stable. She is dense and covered in trichs at day 49 and a dried sample looks, tastes and hits heavy already, but she shines at 56 days and even has better buzz reviews than at 63. I'm gonna a take one 70 days this run, just to see and sample. She's a short, sticky plant with pinky sized stalks at their terminal ends, grows slow in veg, but doubles her size in stretch. I grow with water and molasses only in an organic super soil I created.
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