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  1. This thread is to express the sheer extent of frustration i've been facing regarding growing for the past 9-10 months. 10 months ago, i was growing happily outdoors, growing big indian landraces, massive yielding plants, strains from mandala seeds, mr.nice, etc. i grew organic but didn't give too much heed to what went into the potting mix. i'd dump a visually measured mix of coco peat, vermicompost, bone meal (certainly went overboard with the bone meal, as the rats showed me with their presence) and either perlite or sand. and the plants grew beautiful. no nutrient problems or anything. then, suddenly, one day all the new seeds i sowed stopped growing after a few days of popping out of the soil. i thought it was a slow starting strain. then they didn't grow at all for days. the more beans i popped, the more displayed this issue - seed sprouts, either damps off and dies or stays above ground and just almost stops growing after the second node or so. the ones that did grow further would wilt and die very quick. as i began to handle the problem by elimination, as nobody anywhere seemed to know what was going on, i tried pesticides, fungicides, etc. Nothing had any effect. Then i tried organic bio agents. Trichoderma Harzanium, VAM (myco), pseudomonas flourescens, tricherma viride. to no effect. then i had to move to a different city for work. and i'm now growing indoors. and i'm pleased to say that i don't seem to be experiencing the 'disease of immediate wilt and death'. however, the seedlings seem to be growing so so so slowly. after 3 weeks, i'm hardly two inches above the ground and i've got tiny little cotyledon sized leaves at the nodes, considering there's only three nodes. i stopped feeding. i've tried using a lighter or a stronger mix. this current mix is coco:perlite:cow manure compost:vermicompost in a ratio of 7:1:1:1. i've tried as much as 4:1:2:3 and as little as 9:⅓:⅓:⅓. i'm just trying advanced nutrients grow to see if it works. i hate chemicals but i hate failure more. i did manage to grow out a bagseed to give me a small runty plant that's hardly even a foot tall and probably won't give me more than 8-10 grams of bud, using AN bloom and micro from the 4th week of flowering, and it's now just about a week from finishing.. and basically, i want to know, WHAT CAN I DO TO GET MY PLANTS GROWING AGAIN, WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?! grow room temps : 80-85 R/H: 70-95% Flowering : 1 hps x 400w (bare bulb) [i have space for 6 hps bulbs in total but what's the point if i can't get my bloody seedlings up?) veg : 4 x 28w T5 seedlings for 21 days since sprouting…just sad i would really appreciate any advice or experience with stunted growth…as i'm nearing my wits end i don't know what to do any further... These are my african landraces - v scrog- from ethiopia. what causes downward leaf curling? i read that it was excess N, cause this is not an overwatered/underwatered plant i can guarantee that... this is the poor photography of the old wilt disease my plants began to face…wilt, necrotic leaves, death. can somebody tell me anything about what they think is going on? i'm bamboozled and i don't like knowing that for whatever reason i can't grow my herb!!! and money is just being wasted in the effort…pics of seedlings soon...
  2. Hey over there! So this is my first post here, glad to say "hello" now! I'm growing for two years now, with heavy interest in biological and chemistry aspects (actually studying chemistry). Apart from that I love the plants we care about, no clue ;-) While I've always been in another board till now, I started to look for something else and hope to find a place here. Seems to be a friendly, active and interesting community here. Now I hope that I'm able to contribute something and want to share the plan of my "mothership" with you. Last year I decided that I want my own motherplants - not just that it's practical, this is also a great precondition for crossbreeding later (hopefully this year). I) What did I want? Stability! Perfect for my OWN necessities! Style! (I literally hate those ready-to-go homeboxes) That means: A rollable box with the measurements 40x60x80 (depth, width, heigh - unit is cm, I'm not that familiar with inch etc.). Material is wood, 1,9cm thick (stable & less noise). Finish is a nice coat, I chose dark green laquer. My shopping list: + Chipboards (1,9cm thick, measurements see below) + Woodscrews (4cm & 1,9cm length, I chose brass - looks better, doesn't has to be filled afterwards) + 4 Rolls (take care when buying, max. weight is usually declared) + Doorknob (I chose brass too, perfect addition to the dark green) + Hinge (for the door) + Laquer (for inside (matt white) & outside) + Light trap (staying stealth, pvc tube with 90 degree angle in it, see below) + Screw hooks + 2 magnets (strong one, e.g. Neodym, for the door) + Joint filler (I chose acrylic for bath, anti-mold) + Thin wood or carton (3mm thick is enough, two times [60cm-1,9cm]x5cm, as door-lighttrap, see below) + 2C-Adhesive (2 components..) My equipment for this box (the things that should find placer in it): + 345m3 fan + Step-down transformer for the fan + Thermostat + 180m3 Industry ACF + 2x36W fluorescent tubes The Plan: Small/additional stuff: I made the holes for air condition (light traps for fresh air and the hole for the fan) with an end mill, diameter 12,5cm (fan) and 10cm (light traps, per hole). So, with the tailored wood we can prepare it for the laquer. Let's grind the surface and esp. the edges! II) Laquer - Inside After all holes are made (You can see an additional small dot below the big hole for the fan - this is for the cable, don't forget), we can cout the inside. I chose matt white, best option in my opinion. Chipboards can swallow a lot of paint, esp. in the inside it may be necessary to coat two times to get a perfect reflecting white! Also be sure to let it dry COMPLETELY. III) Getting things together First I screwed together sidewalls with floor&ceiling. Just make sure that it's a 90° angle, then the rest will fit like a charm Important: Put the sidewalls BETWEEN ceiling and floor - not beside it. This was way you can still put some weight on the box without being afraid of lack of stability. IV) Fine-tuning and outside-laquer Before applying the laquer, you should make sure to have a perfect, smooth surface. This way it will become a great looking box. Becoming a edgy, blotchy box is not what I wanted to get. After coating the rolls have to be applied. V) The Door Mechanism of shutting: For me this was a serious question, because my box should be as stealth as possible without looking gross. This way shutting should be "automatic" and seamless. Best option for me: magnets! One in one corner of the door (just choose a borring bit the size of your - round - magnet and drill a small hole. With the 2C-Adhesive place the magnet inside this hole) and one on the inner side of the door-lighttrap, see below. Now we can screw the hinge with the box and the door with the hinge. Pay attention that you place the hinge absolutely seamless and "on-angle". This way no light will be able to escape on the hinge-side. Apple the door-knob for sure. VI) Light Trap Before putting in the tubes wrap some very close-meshed garment about the holes (e.g. pantyhose or doubled fly screen). This way insects, dust and dirt will stay out. Now.. That's it, the rest is up to you. Sorry for my middle-rate english, I'm working on it! I hope this helps as inspiration or whatever. I love my box and like to share my ideas. Below a picture of my equipped box, extended with a seperate fan-box, filled with insulating material. Like this my box is absolutely calm and I can work right beside it. So far, Wild Edit: Screwed up the images, fixed it, sorry
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