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Philips HPS lamps (the difference in uMol output)

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keep in mind that whazzup is a gavita employee,that chart is like advertisement,not an independent test.

 

no offence though cause its still some info on the micro moll output of some lamps :)

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well i know whazz is from gavita, this i no problem as this is a small industry really, every body nows each other,

if bulbs are good for some friend then they are good bulb. normally you might want to buy cheap bulb and sell at a higher price, it depends on what you know. even new company don't have some testing equipment that gavita and philips might have.

 

and really if you look at all the main player philips osrama, etc there bulbs are made by company that produce for them. dont be fouled.

that is life,,,, philips if they did all the work would not be as big as they are today.

 

merchant business.

 

all the best

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I invite every lamp manufacturer or re-seller in the world to come with their own factory specified or their own calibrated Ulbricht Spere measurements. That would be much easier to compare (and of course to verify).

 

I don't really understand your post inkog, what are you trying to say??

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whazz ,,, just saying that not everybody even if they are new to manufacturing ballest etc, have all the correct equipment, this doe not mean that they can not make a ballest run at maximum.

 

calibrated Ulbricht Spere, yes i agree, although i know a couple for sure.

 

whazzz you know that large company don't do all the leg work,

there are many little companys that make many thing for the larger companys.

 

 

we seem to just trust the ones we have heard of. i.e. the larger brands. this is not to say that the smaller companie dont produce top quality.

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G' day to you all!

 

I have learned from I guy that lives in Holland and has been growing for 25 years now. And the reputation on the web is that he is one of the best growers in Holland! And I have been surfing the web now for 10 years about growing the weed. And I have till this day NEVER seen enybody that can achieve what he does whit the plant!

 

So to my point he said to me that the Philips Green Power bulps is for growing tomatoes and not bud!!! Thay are good for veging and mother plants but not buding!

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well then he disagrees with many other respectable growers who I know personally. I would also not recommend a greenpower for vegging. But that's the nice thing about a difference of opinion: You can have one. I agree that seeing the result is always the best reference, but my best references are still the GreenPowers, and not only on tomatoes ;).

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So to my point he said to me that the Philips Green Power bulps is for growing tomatoes and not bud!!! Thay are good for veging and mother plants but not buding!

Huuuummm .... I'm not by far the most experienced growers here, nor a Light engineer, but i've some skills, for more than 10 years, and i didn't know i was growing tomatoes . Except the last three month where i add a HPI-T+ to my GreenPower in my set up, i exclusively grew from seed to harvest with the Philips pride. Before it exists, i used son-t pia master, hps too. And if i add an HPI-T for early flo , it is to enhanced what GP bulb gives naturally : I.E more blue spectrum than other standard HPS.

 

 

Some tomatoes ? :P

 

gallery_992_2898_2159480.jpg

Edited by LaVieEnRose

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That is some big buds for sure. Good work!

 

I wonder if thay will have been so big whit out the HPI-T+?

 

Bc what I have been told is that it's the GreenPower makes good leafs and stems and a bit bud grow.

And the HPI-T+ is good on making buds and ok whit making leafs and stem.

 

It can be right and it can be wrong :spliff:

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@whazzup : it is one of the most blueish HPS, isn't she ?

@inkog : thx for charts . For people who read too quickly, the GP table vertical axis is 3 times bigger than Son-T and blue wavelenght have more intensity it looks like at first view if you don't see that yu have to triple the height of the GP values :)

The HPI-T + spectrum to be complete with this discussion :)

gallery_992_2346_57474.jpg

 

I wonder if thay will have been so big whit out the HPI-T+?can be right and it can be wrong

yes, they would have been bigger without the HPI-T, but less resinous and dense

Check my profile, you'll find my jobs, don't want to pollute this technical topic with my babes ;)

But with all the precautionary words i should use, you and your friend are wrong ;)

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LaVieEnRose nice one....

 

i am told the best bulb is not always the one that gives the most lux, but more par,,,,

 

and so i will be using green power philips, i am aslo told the Sylvia bulbs very good.

Grolux bulbs are sodium bulbs that contain 15% more blue than a standard sodium which allows you to use them through both the growing and flowering periods

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i am told the best bulb is not always the one that gives the most lux, but more par,,,,

Yes, micromol (does anybody knows the shortcut for micron symbol in Apple MBP ? :lol:) is the right way to compare, whazzup try for years to teach us that, i did my homeworks, i know it :lol:

 

I have a question about the table above, about efficiency and wattage, and what are the reason micromol output is different upon the wattage. I have difficulty to figure if it comes from intensity or frequency

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Ok I guess I have to try the GP one day then.

 

Lavieenrose: What is that about: The Great Mapito Test. I tried to search for it here on the site but nothing. Do you have a link to it if it is a topic here or somewher els?

 

 

Best regards!

Kitepot.

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I did find you'r Mapito grow. Just so you know the guy I was talking about is the same guy that learned Eskobar how to grow on Mapito.

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Philips recommends to use HPI lamps in conjunction with its greenpower lamps because they emit so little bue light (about 4%). You have to see everything in comparison. The Philips Agro lamp has more blue but is seldom used any more because of the lower output.

 

Lamps run at optimal efficiency at 100%. When you dim them the efficiency reduces.

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Hey Whazzup, I read about ballast testing on another forum (see quote below) and I wonder if you found

core & coil ballasts to be dramatically less than electronic ballasts. Thank you.

 

QUOTE:Solis-Tek are excellent ballasts--a true high frequency ballast, running at ~84Khz. An online grow shop called growershouse does some useful tests. Their latest one was a PAR comparison between 9 major digital ballasts, and 1 core & coil. All ran a 1000w Hortilux HPS in the same reflector. Measurements were taken at set points on a grid laid out on the floor. The winner: Solis-Tek, which produced about 4% more Par than the no.2 ballast, the Lumatek air cooled, which beat no. 3, the Lumatek non air cooled, and so on. The Phantom was 4th, all the way down to the core & coil. Get this: the Solis-tek produced about 39% more PAR light than the core & coil!!!

 

yes, I would recommend that for the philips ballast. It is also a lamp that is specifically made for a ballast. The Gavita Pro 600 SE powers this lamp.

 

With a remote ballast you can use it in any reflector you prefer, but I would recommend the HortiStar reflector, which has an efficiency of 96%.

 

 

Here are our measurements in the Ulbricht sphere of some common North American lamps compared to our 1000W double ended Philips and our own Gavita single ended 1000W lamp.

 

These measurements were done using a calibrated Ulbricht sphere and a high frequency electronic ballast that was modified to tune the output to the exact value optimal for the lamp tested. Some lamps did not reach their full power on the used ballast, so in order to make a fair comparison we tuned the output of the ballast to every individual lamp so all lamps got exactly the same power. This means that though this is a fair comparison for the lamps (they all received exactly the same energy) it is not a guarantee that these values will be reached in any other ballast, as different ballasts / lamp combinations result in different output powers. Ballast losses were not calculated because every ballast has different losses.

 

If you measure the energy used (W, not amps!) by your ballast and it is less than the manufacturer specified value, that is an indication that the output specified is not reached (if the ballast manufacturers specifications were correct!).

 

Every lamp manufacturer or light lab that has a calibrated Ulbricht sphere, a high frequency tune-able ballast and a high frequency power analyzer can repeat these measurements for verification.

 

These were all new lamps, sourced from our distributors and some just bought in shops.

 

So here's something for the weekend to study. As you see the difference can be a stunning 30% more light using a different lamp and even more with a ballast that is tuned to the lamp.

 

post-59-1319218055_thumb.jpg

 

I do hope this will motivate other lamp suppliers to publish their specifications in ppf so they can be compared.

 

We also have tests on the way for light maintenance but as you can imagine those take a while (6 months to a year to be exact)

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I'm not sure why you quote me there, but 39% more light is bull crap. Good magnetic ballasts from respectable manufacturers such as advance, philips and tridonic do fine and at a reasonable efficiency. The power factor is a bit higher and there is a bit more overhead. Also you need to maintain the capacitor of course.

 

It's the lamp/ballast combination that counts. Not all lamps perform the same on all ballasts. Many are under-powering the lamps. You need to make ballasts to lamp specifications. A Philips (50 Hz) Greenpower compatible magnetic ballast outputs about 615W at nominal input voltage. So an electronic ballast outputting exactly 600W would under-run the lamp by a few % and you would probably see the same or even a higher output from the magnetic ballast, at a higher overhead of course.

 

Magnetic ballasts are the most reliable ballasts, electronic ballasts, when used with the correct lamps, are the safest and most efficient and most of all their output power is not depending on the input voltage.

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I suspect the Gavita Enhanced 600 would fit your chart at just

above Hortilux on a magnetic ballast, for a lot less money, so the

low budget can still get a strong lamp & only about 5% less than

electronic ballast.

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It's more than 5% and there is also the matter of energy consumption, output maintenance over time and output stability. You will use more power using magnetic ballasts, a bit depending on the type you use, and the output is basically depending on the stability and quality of your mains voltage supply.

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Hi Whazzup,

 

Here some shops are selling lumatek 600W ballast with the greenpower 600W EL 400V, i thought that only one ballast could drive this bulb, the Gavita Pro line 600W.

 

Is it Ok the lumatek + GP600W EL? i have the lumatek and i need a new bulb, usually i go only with the sylvania grolux in SL

 

thanks

Grtz

Silva

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Being an electrical engineer in ship design I have designed some lighting systems in my day, but controls of machinery is where I prefer to be. Still, I grow indoors and should devote some of my time to the study of light.

 

Every situation is different and there are many variables. The successful one will be he that can dismiss the most unrelated variables.

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