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I do not fault any man/woman for what they do with their property/creation/what have you. I also give positive vibes all around and especially those who I call friend!

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Don't jump down the guys throat because he asked the question. It's very typical. I was just as much off topic.

 

Back to nutrient formulas!!! Have you seen Useless's schedule for GH and MOAB?

 

Anyone else have a recipe that works for them? Or one that did not work for them? How did you use it and why did it work?

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We did very extensive testing on General Hydroponics products. In fact when I started my web forum back in 2005 its main goal at the time was to try and sort through all the market hype and thousands of products all claiming the same thing and TRY and find the best products. We have tested extensivly almost every major brand on the market over the years and are currently STILL working on this very project. We have even worked with nutrient companies testing un-released new upcoming formulas and have gained much insight by this experience.

 

But anyways with GH products we found that using there additives was well worth the extra money. We were able to double and sometimes triple yields by using the GH 3 part along with floracious plus and liquid koolbloom and dry powder koolbloom as a finisher. The Subculture products are VERY important to use as well with GH nutrient regiments. Products that did not seem to make much difference were things like Diamond Nector and Florablend which is just a VERY weak compost tea additive. Florakleen also did not perform well in any of the test when compared to similar products. There worst product is there PH up and down. The concentrations are just way to weak with these products.

 

Please let me know if you guys have any specific questions regarding GH products. Would be glad to and try and help.

 

Peace!

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Jbarth what was your formulation for veg/flower that was successful using the 3 part, with floracious and kool bloom?

I am currently using the three part myself, and deffinatly looking to perfect.

 

Joker, I just read useless's GL vs GH thread and am trying it out on a couple Afgan X ChemD, that I just put into flower a few days ago, he doesn't recomend floracious or any additives besides kool bloom (week 5). I was using the fomula in post one, which caused major stretching and burning to the plants. I wouldn't say it was just the formula, I also was feeding every watering to. LOL, I think that was the main cause.

 

 

P.S. I wasn't trying to be mean to SLB, sorry if I offended, just trying to help him out with the way the forums work. I don't think there is a bad question, just certian places, for certain questions.

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A good blooming combo we just completed tested on was Emerald triangle Snow Storm Utlra and Gravity. WOW! These 2 products used together produced some AMAZING results! We compared the combo to products like Bloombastic by Atami and MOAB from the Mad Farmer line and they were both blown away by SSU and Gravity used in conjunction together. Great care must taken when using these products or disaster will result. You have to prep the plant to prepare it for a treatment of Gravity. SSU must also be used with care until you find the right dosage for the strain your growing. The biggest problem with these products is timing becuase you MUST apply them at the right time, its CRITICAL with these products, and also the fact every strain we tested reacted differently to Gravity and required a slightly different dose.

 

We also have log'd extensive documentation on the above mentioned products. If you have questions please let me know. I will post the pdf feed charts we followed for the testing, I will just have to dig them up as it was a while ago.

 

Peace!

 

 

 

 

 

Focal-X- Yes sir, we used the 3 part with floracious plus and started liquid koolbloom from day 1 of flower all the way to the end of flower. We then added the powder koolbloom to the mix (still using liquid koolbloom as well) starting about week 7 of a 10 week strain and flushing for week 11.

 

We followed the GH feed chart as far as when to apply the products. We altered dosage using about 25% less than recomended. We also used both Subculture products as well for bacterial/fungi inoculations.

 

Peace!

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I have 4 plants using organics in week 5 of flower. I also have two nearly full containers of MOAB and Koolbloom powder. Was wondering if a half strength dose of KB would pump up the volume.

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Back to nutrient formulas!!! Have you seen Useless's schedule for GH and MOAB?

 

Anyone else have a recipe that works for them? Or one that did not work for them? How did you use it and why did it work?

 

I used Miracle Gro on my first grow w/ satisfactory results. I was still learning how to read the plant at that time. The next two grows I used the Botanicare lineup also w/ good results. This grow I'm using Useless' regimen but I'm only a couple weeks along.

 

I like to experiment and I believe that most reasonably formulated ferts work. When the root hair accepts a nutrient ion it doesn't know or care a whit whether it organic or chemical. But Joker makes the salient points: organic is idiot proof and it is slow. I'm not a hydro guy (yet) but if you have a good feel for your plants health and vigor then I think chem is the way to go.

 

Until I started to study cannabis I didn't think anything could have has many cultivars as daylillies :P I'm wondering if because cannabis is so extensively and selectively bred (and cross bred) that a different nutrient profile would apply across some strains. Just a thought.

 

Phyto

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Focal—Forgot to respond in the spirit your topic requested.

 

I used Botannicare PBP Grow and Bloom supplemented with Liquid Karma. according to the directions on the label. I vegged for 4 weeks and upped the dose weekly. Botanicare provides for several phases: seedling, young veg, mid veg, mature veg,, transition and flowering. They recommend feeding with every watering although I fed twice, ph’d water once using LK every time. Vigor was generally good. A few times they looked a little tired and I would give them a little jolt with Miracle Gro ¼ strength. I didn’t use any other additives.

 

My last grow yielded 223 grams of dried bud under a 250W – 2.5 gal pots, commercial grade potting mix w/ no nutes added. I’m not averse to enhanced mixes; I use them for annuals and vegetables all the time. It was just what I had at the time.

 

Phyto

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@The Joker- I think a half strenght dose would definatly be a good idea bro. Even if you just did one or two applications of it IMHO. Just watch for burn...maybe even try 1/4 strength first , then bump to half strength dose..ect..

 

Note: I probably would not use MOAB and powder koolbloom together but you probably already knew that....:P

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this thread is getting good yum, yum.

 

i have touted CNS-17 as a K.I.S.S. 1 PART NUTE. yup i used it myself, and still have some. will i get more? damn straight.

 

i followed the direction on the top of the cap which told the user to back off of the strength. i did so and all went well

 

seems the original version was commercial/industrial strength so you got a great price and used less on top of it. for an economically challenged grower it fit my needs

perfectly. for those with more bucks why spend it if you don't have to?

 

CNS-17 has a new formula line up that i have not used. others who have say it works well too. i'll stick with the cheaper to use original as long as i can find it.

i'm interested in trying dutch master one too. i think this was made for direct competition to the old CNS-17. i'll try to see who has used it as well as there results.

i'll check the name to make sure i have it right so bear with me ok. thx.

 

p.s. i must say that i started with miracle grow & peters professional. mole used to use Mg and his buds tasted & smoked real good.

 

also used alaska fish with good results since age old was more expensive lol. gotta run

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I have some Humbolt Gravity left over from a Hydro DWC project, and that stuff made a slimey mess of the resivior.

 

JBarth, are you using SSU and Gravity as foliar spray or as additive to nutes? What are your formula's for using them together?

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To use in a DWC with aeration in your tanks (airstones) and IF your running bacteria or a live res instead of a dead res, then you add SSU at the end of a res change, meaning add it on 2 to 3 days before you are about to change your water (SSU does not need to always be in the nutrient tank and 2 to 3 day treatments with breaks in between by using this method works best).

 

Start SSU applications as described at 2 weeks BEFORE you begin the flower cycle at 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. You use it all the way through to the end of flower. You can also do foliar sprays with it up until about week 3 or 4 in flower. If you are adding to your tank foliar is not needed but can be used; just only apply maybe 3 foliar treatments total, again only up until week 4 of flower with foliar treatments.

 

You can also add SSU to your favorite cloning solution for AWESOME results as well!

 

Gravity is applied as a finisher and if your using SSU with it, cut out all other nutrients and additives. Just use Gravity starting at about 1ml per 5 gallons in DWC. Run it for about 3 or 4 days then add SSU and run for 2 more days then change the tank and repeat for about the last 3 weeks of flower. If your strain can handle it and does not show signs of burn, you can SLOWLY add back your bloom base nutrients after the first week of starting the Gravity.

 

Gravity is VERY potent and I have never used more than 2ml per 5 gallons. Also when using Gravity lower your SSU dosage to about 3ml-5ml per gallon depending on how the plants look. If no signs of stress after the first week, you can slowly up the dose of SSU.

 

Please let me know if you have specific questions. If done correctly, these 2 products alone will show you some SERIOUS resin and crystals.....

 

Peace!

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Forgot to mention also, you can tell if SSU has gone aerobic on you in your nutrient tank by the smell. AFter adding SSU, wait about 12 hours and start to take some really good wiffs of your solution. Get your nose as close to the roots and water as you can get it (without snorting water) and if you start to smell something rotten or notice a "weird" change in overall smell, SSU is turning aerobic on you for some reason. We tested SSU extensivly for a year and ONLY noticed SSU turning aerobic on 2 occasion, the 1st was when water temp exceeded 73F which allowed the pathogens to breed and the second was due to and old bottle of SSU plus the fact of pathogens already being present in the solution in VERY high numbers BEFORE SSU was added.

 

This means in DWC you need to keep a tight running ship and keep temps in order and everything VERY clean! Out of range PH can also cause pathogens to breed as well and is often the culprit yet some additive the grower is using will usually get the blame for the outbreak instead. These things are MUST anyhow IMHO for a succesful DWC grow anyhow.........

 

Peace!

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Good stuff JBarth wish I would have had your input back when I was running DWC, but now I have switched to using Pro Mix HP in 1.5 gal squares. Should I run as directed on the label for soil? Can I start using a regiment starting week 3 of flower?

 

I am about out of grow, and was thinking of switching to GH Flora Nova for the veg cycle, and then eventually to Flora Nova Bloom as well. anyone use the Nova line up with as mutch success as the Flora series

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Definatly can use it in soil Focal, in fact it works great in soil and you dont have to worry about anything except adding to much of course. I would start at adding about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon per gallon to your nutrient mix and use with every feed till harvest. You will need to use less nutrients in your mix and I would recomend cutting back your nutrient base by about 15 to 25% until you see how much the plants can handle. You can increase both your nutrient base and SSU dosage after about a week and no signs of stress. Thats one of the best things about using SSU is that you get increased resin production and over all yield yet needing to use less nutrients to get there..

 

If your going to use Gravity in soil, make sure you give your plants water ONLY the week BEFORE you are going to give them Gravity. Then give them Gravity ONLY on first application. After a week if no signs of stress, you can proceed. I would water only in between a SSU + Gravity feed in soil to keep from salt concentration from building up in the soil.

 

Peace!

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Thanks for the info JBarth! I will try it on one to see how it works. Also one more question, what is your formula and schedule for foliar sprays? I don't have the snow either I just have Purple Max and Gravity.

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I do not use Gravity for foliar sprays nor would I recomend that. You should do yourself a favor and get a small bottle of SSU to try with your gravity. Using either product by itself really did not do all that much that we could notice. Its when combining these 2 products together (SSU+Gravity).....the magic starts happening.....I was NOT impressed when testing either product by itself really.......I guess Gravity is a VERY good finishing product to make your buds dense and hard like baseballs.....

 

Are you talking about a particular foliar product?

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well the Purple Max has instructions "un-official" that state some users use at a tsp. per gal as a foliar spray and have seen increased resin production as well as some purple coloring effects in some cases. I was just wondering what your spray consit of and when you use it? And if you have ever tried purple max by humbolt?

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RIGO209 = poster ( the link to the thread is here = http://www.gardenscure.com/420/plant-food-...xx-gravity.html == more info on folks results using this stuff)

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

WHAT AM I SUPPOSSED TO USE THE PURPLE MAXX? THE HYDRO GUY TOL ME I SHOULD GO WITHOUT THE BUSHMASTER UNLESS I REALLY NEED IT IT. TRAINING IS ENOUGH. BUSHMASTER EFFECTS YOUR YIELD AND POTENCY, THUS IS THE REASON FOR THE PURPLE MAXX. HE SAID THAT IT IS IMPORTANT TO USE THE PURPLE MAX IF YOU USED THE BUSHMASTER TO GAIN WHAT YOU LOST BUT IF YOU DID NOT USE THE BUSHMASTER YOU WILL HAVE MORE CRYSTALATION THAN NORMAL.

 

sorry bout the caps.

 

what is the best way to apply the purple maxx to get the most productivity out of the product. myself i am a soil grower. i perfer the taste.

 

he hooked me up with a shitload of samples of all three products so that i will nat have to actually buy the products for a long ass time.

 

I FOUND THIS THREAD WITH A LITTLE MORE INPUT ON PURPLE MAXX over at the rag 5 pages, but worth a quick read imho. http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=44831 maybe this will help someone here.

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I think purple max is a version of snow storm so I am going to try it with the gravity on one of my plants. I actualy started yesterday and I started the dose at 1.5mm per gal of gravity, and 2mm per gal of Purple max. when the lights turned on today I see no signs of burn, and I will water with straight water over the next 3 days as needed and if no burn or stress, I will resume nutrients. Then maybe I will use the above formula for the watering periiods in between feedings. Would this be a decent program to start with JBarth?

 

 

Don't sound like many people like that Purple Max from the threads I read there Sacred. We will just have to see for ourselves if its hype or butt wype. LOL

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This is my first grow and I chose Humboldt Nutrients Master A & B (Hydroponic) feeding schedule. Before I go further I need to mention my lack of knowledge concerning biologicals in a recirculating hydro setup. I have been battling algae nasty crap from week one. After talking to the Humboldt guys they said, oh well don't use anything but Master A & B and Ginormous. Of course now I own a bunch of crap I don't need.

 

Ok so I accept my responsibility with regards to what I put in my tank. I just so happened to notice little floating nasty crap in both Master A & B. When I spoke to the Humboldt guys I specifically asked about nutrients going bad, their response was no that never happens and not to worry about it. I purchased the nutrients at a fairly busy local hydro store so you would expect the nutes to be good at least fresh. Of course they replaced my nutrients only to have the same problem. I have been changing my reservoir at least once a week and sometimes more.

 

My experience has not been a good one. I know others will have no problems especially in soil. I definitely do not recommend HN for recirculating hydro. I just happened to score some House and Garden Aqua Flakes. My first impression was how clean HG appears vs. HN.

 

I know this is just one example, and many others will have good results with HN it just wasn't right for my system. I was at a indoor gardening expo this last weekend and there were quite a lot of nutrient guys pushing biological stuff. If only I used their product with the right schedule and suppliments they would fix me right up, no thanks.

 

Just my 2 cents,

 

Skoman

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i can't really speak on purple max or gravity but i used snow storm ultra below recommended dosage and it burnt my plant it was savable but i won't use it again i do just fine with the true humboldt nutes grow micro and bloom

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Hi there !

 

Some people dont like coco because it makes nutrients behave differently but i love it in a organic mix. it helps with K and EC of light mixes. it also helps with wicking (it can spread the water around your medium evenly).

 

for my basic mix i add 3 parts coco, 2 parts perlite, 2-3 parts worm castings depending on how hungry the strain usually is. then i add some amendments per 30cm x 30cm x 30cm (cubic foot?) of mix:

2-3 grams (half handful) bone meal

4-5 grams (half handful coz its heavier) dolomite lime

1 teaspoon bat guano

 

if you have access to volcanic rock dust and crushed oyster shells, halve the lime and add some of that in small amounts.

 

if you have access to mycorrhiza and/or trichoderma this will boost the mix considerably. bear in mind you can only use mycorrhiza on the plants root zone or it will be wasted.

 

the mix can be used to plant as soon as its ready but it definitely benefits from a cure. as always make sure to water after transplanting. this mix is good for seeds too. will not burn coz its light EC.

 

then you can feed with whatever organic nutrients you want. i recommend either compost teas (but these are missions to have ready all the time) or biobizz grow and bloom. also biosevia terra range is awesome for organic.

 

remember that the mix has nutrients already so dont feed for the first 2 weeks and when you start feeding start with quarter dose and work up to half dose. for vegging a clone or seedling: grow nutes

week 1: water

week 2: water

week 3: quarter dose every second watering

week 4: half dose every second watering

- at this stage you can see the more hungry plants and i top feed with some more worm castings -

week 5: half dose every second watering

week 6: ready to flower, last slightly above half dose of grow nutrients.

 

after transplanted for flower the hungry ones get more worm casts in their mix: bloom nutes

week 1: light black strap molasses feeding

week 2: quarter dose every second watering

week 3: quarter dose every second watering + epsom salts to get the mg higher

week 4: half dose every second watering

week 5: half dose every second watering

week 6: half dose every second watering + might need some more epsom salts to get the mg higher

week 7: quarter dose every second watering

week 8: black strap molasses and 1ml/liter fulvic acid

week 9: black strap molasses and 1ml/liter fulvic acid

week 10: harvest

 

i have noticed that when using bonemeal (high in calcium) it helps to use epsom salts to get the cal / mag balance better. should have double the mag than the cal during onset of flower.

 

this method makes perfectly clean organic weed with white white ash. because of the starvation at the last two weeks the yield can be smaller than some person using GH 3 part flora series but the taste and smoking experience will be incomparable.

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remember to get quality ingredients. i have seen a lot of inferior and infected composts and casting out there. mine are pH balanced to 6.8 and come in a bag. the house hold stuff can get quite high pH but still very usable if you catch it at the right time before the nitrogen fixing bacteria have multiplied too much and given it a slimy clay lumpy consistency. but making castings is an art of its own.

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