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ledm8

2x120W LED / DR60 / 4x Shackzilla in SCROG

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Dear OpenGrow members, here is my micro grow diary. My plants are at flowering day 42 when I started posting, so expect to see plenty of pics below. I will try to provide updates every week. Advices are appreciated as I'm rather inexperienced as a grower.

 

DR60 (60x60x160cm)

2x 120W LED 6-band (660nm, 630nm, 450nm, 430nm, 410nm, 3500k white, shop unknown)

180m³/h active carbon filter + Noctua 120mm NF-P12 (1300rpm, 92.3 m³/h)

4x Shackzilla in SCROG

4x 15 liter PlantinBag + soil

BioBizz: Grow, Root Juice, Bloom, Top Max

 

Temperature: Lights on +25'C, Lights off +22'C

RH: 40-60%

 

Vegatative period

- Started when seeds developed

- Lighting 24/0

- Lasted 38 days

 

Flowering stage

- Started after 38 days of vegetation

- Lighting 12/12

- Will last 80-100 days

 

SZ#1

- Topped x1 on veg day 12

- Topped x4 on veg day 27

 

SZ#2

- Topped x1 on veg day 12

- Topped x2 on veg day 27

 

SZ#3

- Topped x1 on veg day 12

- Topped x2 on veg day 27

- Probably the biggest plant

 

SZ#x

- I had only 3 seeds, so the 4th plant has to be grown from a cut. Unfortunately I just don't remember from which one. Anyway this is the smallest plant.

- Topped x1 (FIM)

 

i18394_oaegfaadk.jpg

 

i18395_oaeggaadk.jpg

 

 

Veg day 33

 

i18399_paegfaadk.jpg

 

i18398_paegcaadk.jpg

 

i18401_paeghaadk.jpg

 

i18400_paeggaadk.jpg

 

i18402_paegiaadk.jpg

 

 

Flowering day 8

 

i18409_baehcaadk.jpg

 

 

Flowering day 14

 

i18410_baehdaadk.jpg

 

 

Flowering day 18

 

i18411_baehiaadk.jpg

 

 

Flowering day 22

 

i18415_baehmaadk.jpg

 

i18416_baehnaadk.jpg

SZ#2

 

i18417_baehoaadk.jpg

 

i18418_baehpaadk.jpg

 

 

Flowering day 28

 

i18419_faehiaadk.jpg

 

i18420_faehjaadk.jpg

 

i18421_faehkaadk.jpg

SZ#2

 

 

Flowering day 30

 

i18422_faehlaadk.jpg

 

 

Flowering day 34

 

i18427_gaehaaadk.jpg

 

i18423_faehmaadk.jpg

SZ#1

 

i18424_faehnaadk.jpg

SZ#2

 

i18426_faehoaadk.jpg

SZ#3

 

i18431_iaehaaadk.jpg

SZ#x

 

 

Flowering day 37

 

i18428_gaehbaadk.jpg

 

i18429_gaehcaadk.jpg

SZ#2 + SZ#x

 

i18432_iaehiaadk.jpg

SZ#2

 

 

Flowering day 40

 

i18433_iaehkaadk.jpg

 

i18434_iaehlaadk.jpg

 

i18435_iaehmaadk.jpg

 

i18436_iaehoaadk.jpg

SZ#2

 

i18437_jaehaaadk.jpg

SZ#2

 

i18438_jaehbaadk.jpg

SZ#3

 

i18439_jaehdaadk.jpg

SZ#3

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Nutrients Table (flowering period)

 

- I have digital EC meter, but I haven't tried it because it seems to be a big hassle

- Nutrients are given by instinct, I adjust only pH values

- The table will be updated in this post

 

>Day (12/12)  Water (l)  Grow/Bloom/TopMax (ml per water litre)

 3		  4	   2/2/2
 7		  5	   2/2/2
 9		  5	   2/2/2
11		  3	   2/2/2
13		  3	   2/2/2

15		  3	   2/2/2
17		  5	   2/2/2
20		  4	   2/2/2
22		  4	   2/2/2
24		  4	   2/2/2

25		  4	   2/2/2
28		  4	   2/2/2
30		  4	   2/3/3
32		  4	   2/3/3
34		  4	   2/3/3

36		  4	   2/3/3
38		  4	   2/2/2
40		  4	   2/3/2
42		  4	   2/3/2

 

 

Flowering day 42

 

Some pics with leds off and 30W CFL on for photoshoot lighting. Please let me know if you see any problems.

 

i18728_kaeohaadk.jpg

 

i18729_kaeojaadk.jpg

 

i18730_kaeomaadk.jpg

SZ#2 center, SZ#1 left, SZ#3 right, SZ#x front right

 

i18731_kaeopaadk.jpg

SZ#3

 

i18732_laeoaaadk.jpg

SZ#2 left side and SZ#3 right side

 

i18733_laeocaadk.jpg

SZ#2

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Welcome to OpenGrow ledm8. If you can you might stop by and say hello to everyone in the introductry forum.

You have a nice looking grow going there. The only problem that I can see with it is that it is in your grow space and not mine. I'd be happy with that grow anytime. I'll stick around here and watch you finish this one up for sure. Good grow mate.

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This is excellent. That's quite an opener!

 

Thanks for all the purple LED pics - they're really nice to look at :verrygood and those white-tip clusters are so cool, too.

 

I like that you used chicken wire. The plants look beautiful and the canopy is evenly packed with buds B) . Did you have to do a lot of bending, or did the tight honeycombs of the chicken wire do a lot of the work for you?

 

... Welcome to OpenGrow

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hey ledm8,

 

Nice grow!

 

I would like to say, with 6 band of leds and 240W in 0.36m² you can't be disapointed. With a very efficient last generation led panel you can go with half power (360W/m²).

 

Could you tell us more about the panels? lenses, no lenses, brand, price, distance leds/plants...

 

660nm, 630nm, 450nm, 430nm, 410nm, 3500k white... not bad spectrum at all! the 410, 430 and 450nm will probably generate extra thc, but this is an anusual combination of blue wavelength. Very probably your buds will be very powerfull.

 

Is it your first grow with these led panels?

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beautiful wish led's were better priced but you did a great job with em

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I'm familiar with the biobizz series and noticed from your chart that you re a bit on the " too liberal side" with the TOPMAX.

 

I'm used to the series: bio bloom, bio grow, algea-mic, top max.

 

According to my chart, it should be 1 : 1 : 1 : 1/3, whereas 1/3 is topmax.

 

As far as I remember(haven't worked with it for a while), 10 ml x3, plus 3 ml topmax on 10 liter water would give an ec reading of 1.0 ms, your solution will look like light coffee or dark tea.

 

(wich in your situation with leds should be the maximal amount to feed.)

 

Bio grow gives the highest EC reading btw, gotto watch out with it.

 

I hope you get that EC reader of yours going mate, (you only need a 5 euro bottle of callibration liquid, available at aliens) since it's a real pleasure to know exactly about the amount of positive ions you are dumping on them and to see what they can handle.

 

Better disregard the info of whats reading on the bottles, cannabis ain't no tomatoes! (tomatoes would do real nice when given like that at every watering, but cannabis most definatly can't handle it.)

 

Once a week 33 ml on 10 liter water should do, and plenty of clean water inbetween works best for your indicas.

 

You been feeding them already way to much for a while so I reckon it's time to keep the cork on the bottles for at least a week.

 

Hmm, you got too much rubbish built up in your medium atm wich is hard to undo without causing lots of damage(eg flushing)

Try to invest in sannies bacto, so germs will be able to encapsule some of it. You'd winn maybe 10 or 20 % of what you would get otherwise, but at least for next grow its great to have around.

 

Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the warmest welcomes! Now to the business.

 

I've acquired 5 ml of this bacteria: http://www.nomercysupply.nl/nomercy/en/node/114

 

What do you think should I use it now? Is there any risks?

 

I like that you used chicken wire. The plants look beautiful and the canopy is evenly packed with buds :P . Did you have to do a lot of bending, or did the tight honeycombs of the chicken wire do a lot of the work for you?

At first the chicken wire did the work for me, I just placed any branch that popped up back under the net. But when the stretch continued I had to start using pieces of wire to bend the branches evenly. I used total of ~75 pieces of wire. I didn't have to break any branches in purpose, but 3 of them had to face that "accident". They got recovered ofc and are now at the same size as the other buds if not even bigger.

 

I think the net could be lower. I will probably put it 5-10cm lower in next grow (if there will be one) and start bending at veg week 3 or 4.

 

Could you tell us more about the panels? lenses, no lenses, brand, price, distance leds/plants...

 

660nm, 630nm, 450nm, 430nm, 410nm, 3500k white... not bad spectrum at all! the 410, 430 and 450nm will probably generate extra thc, but this is an anusual combination of blue wavelength. Very probably your buds will be very powerfull.

 

Is it your first grow with these led panels?

What are lenses? I bought the led panels for a little over 200e/unit from someone. The importer doesn't have a webshop. He says that he tests every led panel to match the spectrums that NASA has found the most important for plants.

 

I used to have about 15 cm distance from leds to plants, but it is about 20 cm now. I don't have information what would be the best distance for my grow and I would appreciate if someone would share his knowledge about this.

 

This is my first grow and I haven't seen any other led grows live, so I don't have experience about leds more than I have shown you. Let's make the forums in use and learn some!

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This is my first grow and I haven't seen any other led grows live, so I don't have experience about leds more than I have shown you. Let's make the forums in use and learn some!

Well, ask saddhu, he knows a lot about Leds.. :P

Have a look at his threads... :P

Peace

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:P Very nice LED grow ledm8. After seeing what Saddhu and a few others here have done with LED's...and now you and your grow, I am getting more and more interested in LED growing. This is one of the aspects of growing I would like to learn more about. I know a guy here, where I live, that grows tomatoes with LED's...I may go pick his brain for information. Anyway, you have done very well for a relatively new grower. I will keep up with this thread.

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He, is funny you bring up the bacterial from cees, I ve been participating his forum for a long time under a different nick, been using his stuff myself for years too, it's good yeh.

 

Yes it's safe, better start with it asap.

 

You can use it daily or with every watering btw, but you got to incubate those germs in a bucket with aired water and a tea spoon of fruit suger (dextrose) per day in it.

 

The germs will attach to the bottom and the walls of the bucket and reproduce, stirr them off with a dishing brush before watering so you get more of them, after a day or so the ones left behind will have reproduced and nicely stick to the buckets inner surface again.

 

(Leave the dishing brush after stirring in the bucket or use more then one brush, it, ll enlarge the surface for your germs to grow on)

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DonQuichotte:

 

Thank you for your advices! What a lucky coincidence that I happened to get the same bacteria (or any bacteria at all). I actually read the recommendations from the bottles so you were right there too :P

 

I'm not really familiar with reading EC. Is it enough to read the water+nutrients combination or should I also be arsed to dig soil and measure EC from there? I water the plants just by pouring water to DR60's floor and let the gravel+soil suck it up so it would be literally digging up samples for measuring. Oh and I have EC calibration solution too, bought it along with the EC meter so that's not a problem.

 

I used 1ml to 1litre ratio in vegetation phase when I didn't yet have pH up solution (1:1000 ratio made the pH go down to 6.5 from 8).

 

The bacteria is now in a bucket with 4 litres of water. I had no such sugar available. Is it essential? Should I go buy it tomorrow from a store and is it already too late to apply it to the water+bacteria mix? I used 1½ teaspoons of that bacteria and I have maybe 1 teaspoonful left. The water had been in the bucket for 34 hours in dark, will that do the airing trick? I was unthoughtful and put the bacteria in non-balanced water (pH about 8) and I don't have pH down (can get it tomorrow).

 

This is probably quite a mess now, but if you are still following where I'm going could you please give instructions what should I do now. Apply quickly some BioBizz Grow so that the pH will balance? No other nutrients in next watering? What about the sugar? I can probably get some more of the bacteria if I fail the first set. Huge thanks for your help so far.

 

Ps: SZ is sativa not indica. You probably just wrote other than you thought, but let's be correct :P

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Saddhu:

 

I've read your latest led grow topic and now I know more about leds. Enlighting stuff.

 

I'm not sure who is the producer, but they are made in China.

 

Other information that I could get from an A4 brochure that came with the panels:

- Use high efficient 1W led as light source, based on 112x1W high power leds

- Wide beam angle: 120 degree

- Unique heat dissipation device: thermostatically controlled fans to keep LED light cool

- Power Factor (PF) > 0.97

- Total Harmonic Distortion < 15%

- Ratio 8(red):1(blue)

 

Thermostatically controlled fans hehe. I think they blow at full force all the time. I've already changed one panel's all 3 noisy fans with 2 Noctua's. After two weeks use I think it did the trick, so I'm going to change fans from other panel too to get noise level down.

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DonQuichotte:

 

Thank you for your advices! What a lucky coincidence that I happened to get the same bacteria (or any bacteria at all). I actually read the recommendations from the bottles so you were right there too ;)

 

DQ> Yeh, great move you were able to lay your hands on them, it would have been either that or sannies bacto. It's Sannies site so i recommended bacto, quess what i would have recommended if this was posted on Cees his site :P lol

 

I'm not really familiar with reading EC.

 

DQ> You press a button and the display shows a number. Depending on soil EC and stage of your plants you arrange this number to be inbetween 0.5 ms and 2.1 ms. (adding more clean water to the solution to be measured lowers the ec reading.)

0.5ms feed water is to start your plants with, or when you are on rich soil.

2.1 you only get to do in the final stage of a superb grow under plenty of hps wattage when everything has went better then anyone can dream of.

So according to how the plant is going while beeing aware of the soils ec reading, you got to decide the right Ec/ms reading of your feed water.

I could guide you with it on another grow when you start from scratch cuzz i first need to know the ec reading of the soil you started off with.

 

Is it enough to read the water+nutrients combination or should I also be arsed to dig soil and measure EC from there?

 

DQ> I would n't dig up any soil now. just try to make the best of this grow. Sorry to say but it's not gonna be much you will get this time> you are too far in flowering already to turn it into a mega harvest, just do your best for now and try to turn the tables your way using the bacterial.

The big idea is to keep those white hairs white and plentyfull for as long as possible, too many red hairs in a too early stage of flowering is a sign that the plant is making it self ready to die. In your case it is the ineveteble result of too much surplus nute build up.

I never had to dig up soil for measurement purposes btw, I only measure the soil before i start growing on it and that's it.

It 'll tell me how to go about my feeding schedule. lets say, if I start on soil that has a reading of 0.8 ms, I will start feeding 0.5 first 2 times to let them get used to it when they are 2 weeks old, then i raise up the EC by aproximatly 0.1 per week and depending on how the plants respond to it.

I'll watch for dept of colour and texture of the leafes. Both as well fan as tip leafes should have the same colour at all times, never to dark green and never allow the leafes to become hard and stiff.

Leafes should be a shiny medium type of green, plenty of soil life and no rubbish in your medium takes care of that, hence the EC reader.

 

I water the plants just by pouring water to DR60's floor and let the gravel+soil suck it up so it would be literally digging up samples for measuring. Oh and I have EC calibration solution too, bought it along with the EC meter so that's not a problem.

 

DQ> I'm not a big proponent of watering exclusivly from under. water should for about 80%/90% be poured from on top, and 10/20% from under.

In your present situation however you shouldn't change nothing as you are doing right now tho, cuzz the better part of the rubbish will now be high up in your medium due to evaporation , and you dont want to flush it all back down again.

 

I used 1ml to 1litre ratio in vegetation phase when I didn't yet have pH up solution (1:1000 ratio made the pH go down to 6.5 from 8).

 

DQ> quit the feed for now, use rainwater instead, rain water has an ec reading of 0.00 ( so no rubbish) and has a ph shifting between 6.0 and 6.8, there are however so little negative ions in rainwater that it wont have an impact on the soil ph of your medium.

 

 

The bacteria is now in a bucket with 4 litres of water. I had no such sugar available. Is it essential?

 

DQ> yes, it's just feed to your germs to get them up and multiplying. you buy it at any regular supermarket, dextrose cq fruitsugar is best since it keeps your solution clean, regular suger would turn it into a slimy mess. a flat teaspoon a day of it would be enough on a 10 liter bucket of water.

 

Should I go buy it tomorrow from a store and is it already too late to apply it to the water+bacteria mix?

DQ> yes, better buy asap, and no it's not too late already.

 

I used 1½ teaspoons of that bacteria and I have maybe 1 teaspoonful left. The water had been in the bucket for 34 hours in dark, will that do the airing trick? I was unthoughtful and put the bacteria in non-balanced water (pH about 8) and I don't have pH down (can get it tomorrow)

 

DQ> Mix the bucket with an other bucket of rain water and keep it at 21/22 C, then add the last germs you got left, should last a life time if you keep adding water and sugar daily, airing is beeing done with a small rotating aquarium pump that circulates the water (1.5 to 5 watt, maybe 10 bucks at every aquaria store, remove the filter agent), not a membrane pump with airstone since these only clogg up all the time.

 

This is probably quite a mess now, but if you are still following where I'm going could you please give instructions what should I do now. Apply quickly some BioBizz Grow so that the pH will balance? No other nutrients in next watering? What about the sugar?

DQ> all questions are token care of in the above. so only give the 10 liter rainwater/4 liter tapwater solution with bacterial in it for now.

Never empty the bucket completely btw cuzz you need some of them germs left to reproduce new ones, keep adding sugar and rain water to it.

 

I can probably get some more of the bacteria if I fail the first set. Huge thanks for your help so far. DQ> YW ;)

 

Ps: SZ is sativa not indica. You probably just wrote other than you thought, but let's be correct ;)

 

Damn, for some reason I realy thought you were growing the El Monstre, thanks for correcting me on thisone.

(allthough I do understand how this all got fuckered up in my head by now, but gets too long and to no avail :P ;)

https://www.opengrow.com/index.php?showtopic=42269 Try studying these links ledm8 it ll tell you how it's done without the need for an EC meter.

 

http://www.wietforum.nl/index.php?showtopi...t=0&start=0

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You put it really well, it all becomes clear now. Appreciated very much.

 

One thing is that I don't understand. I can't calibrate my EC meter (Fastech FA35) to this EC 1.413 solution. The mS value doesn't get below 7. I rotate the calibration screw but nothing happens at this low end. It can be calibrated up but not down. Any tips or tricks? Tried to do a search but no luck.

 

How much should I use the fructose sugar? I put two tablets (3g or two teaspoons) to 5l of water.

 

Thanks for the links too. I've seen the Sannie's grow report, but haven't read it well. Will do it over time.

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Sorry, im not familiar with your type of EC reader Ledm8. I hope someone else can help you out on that one.

I got a combo reader from hannah myself and after some digging on google I found the whole manual even.

Maybe persue a bit still, if you don't find it at first.

 

For as far as the fruit sugar goes, a flat teaspoon per 10 liter of water a day will be fine.

 

If you add more then that on a daily basis it will turn into some kind of lousy home brew :P

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Saddhu:

 

I've read your latest led grow topic and now I know more about leds. Enlighting stuff.

 

I'm not sure who is the producer, but they are made in China.

 

Other information that I could get from an A4 brochure that came with the panels:

- Use high efficient 1W led as light source, based on 112x1W high power leds

- Wide beam angle: 120 degree

- Unique heat dissipation device: thermostatically controlled fans to keep LED light cool

- Power Factor (PF) > 0.97

- Total Harmonic Distortion < 15%

- Ratio 8(red):1(blue)

 

Thermostatically controlled fans hehe. I think they blow at full force all the time. I've already changed one panel's all 3 noisy fans with 2 Noctua's. After two weeks use I think it did the trick, so I'm going to change fans from other panel too to get noise level down.

 

Hey ledm8,

 

120° angle: so distance to lamp can be as short as 15cm. With lenses for example 60° ones for my penetrator, distance to lamp is 45cm or plants will get apical chlorosis. With a 120° angle, footprint is better but penetration is lower. But this lamp is perfect for scrog. About the distance lamp/plants, i think 15cm is the minimum. If you increase the distance you will increase the footprint. Put your hand under the lamp at bud level and see if there is enough light intensity at the sides of the grow area. If not, increase the distance lamp/plants, but IMHO 25-30cm will be the maximum. Just see if buds on the sides of the grow are as big as buds at the center and you will better adjust the distance lamp/plants for the next grow.

 

With cheap chinese led lamps, poor quality of fans is often an issue. If a fan break down, led can be seriouly damaged. You had a very good idea to change the fans. Cooling is very important forthe leds lifetime.

 

I think you will get good results with these lamps.

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Flowering day 44

 

Some pics with led flashlight.

 

i19073_haeklaado.jpg

SZ#1

 

i19074_iaekmaado.jpg

SZ#2

 

i19075_jaekgaado.jpg

SZ#3

 

i19076_jaekoaado.jpg

SZ#2 The centern hat of the scrog

 

i19077_kaekgaado.jpg

The roundest bud of SZ#3

 

i19078_kaekpaado.jpg

SZ#2 and SZ#3

 

i19080_laekmaado.jpg

SZ#2

 

>Nutrients Table updated (flowering period)

Day (12/12)  Water (l)  Grow/Bloom/TopMax (ml per water litre)

 3		  4	   2/2/2
 7		  5	   2/2/2
 9		  5	   2/2/2
11		  3	   2/2/2
13		  3	   2/2/2

15		  3	   2/2/2
17		  5	   2/2/2
20		  4	   2/2/2
22		  4	   2/2/2
24		  4	   2/2/2

25		  4	   2/2/2
28		  4	   2/2/2
30		  4	   2/3/3
32		  4	   2/3/3
34		  4	   2/3/3

36		  4	   2/3/3
38		  4	   2/2/2
40		  4	   2/3/2
42		  4	   2/3/2 *** all too much, have to do some flushing 
44		  3	   0/0/0 + NMS Bacterial

 

I watered the plants now without any nutrients. Mission overdose panic repair. The No Mercy Supply Bacteria (1½ teaspoons) had been about 40 hours in water (pH 8-9) and 10h with 2 teaspoonfuls of fruit sugar added. I used pH down and so the soup had pH 6.5 when I poured 3 litres of it for the plants (from under like before).

 

2 buckets of light Bacteria+fruitsugar water (pH 6.5) will be now reproducing more Bacteria. 8l and 5l. Next plant watering probably in 15h. Too bad I couldn't get rain water just yet.

 

Next post will be on 2nd page on default posts lenght :P

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I could guide you with it on another grow when you start from scratch cuzz i first need to know the ec reading of the soil you started off with.

Hi m8, sorry for jumping in but I'm interested too. May I ask how do you measure Ph and Ec of soil with usual stuff?

Tia

 

Peace

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@ledm8, Your logic of going about it, since you were short of rain water sounds all pretty allright by me.

 

Im not a huge proponent of flushing on soil tho, it might cause rootrot and even without will most certainly stunt your plants, better let the bacteria take care of it for now.

 

@weedstiti, assuming ledm8 gives me permission to elaborate on this; Well here we go :P

 

I don't think there is a real universal way to decide the exact EC of your soil,since it depends on how long you let the water/soil solution "ripen".

The Ec will at first get higher in time but will shift later on after waterborn bacteria start encapsulating "solids"

 

Best is to work always the same way, and accept your personal outcome as the one that counts.

 

The idea is to dissolve so much of your soil in rain or Reversed Osmosis water that after filtering out the water, you get just enough water back to stick your EC reader in it and do your measuring.

 

In practise it goes like this: Take a measuring cup or whatever, fill it for about 3/4 with your soil, top it off with rain or RO water till the edge' and while pouring it in, stirr the sludge with a teaspoon to get the air out.

 

Now you dump it into a coffee filter holder with coffee filter in it, and catch up the water in a small clean plastic container.

 

Stick your Ec reader in the filtered water and there is your reading.

 

Im usually in a hurry so i do it this way, Others however, will instead of pouring it into the coffee filter straight away, first put it into a larger bowl and let it sit for a while, some do 15 minutes, others 1 or 4 hours, some let it sit overnight, or whatever they believe is the most accurate universal reading they can get.

Whatever way you choose, make sure you do it always the same way, since it is YOU that has to work with the reading and it's effects on your plants.

 

Remember Ec is nothing else as the amount of + ions in your soil. (wich I use to call "rubbish") The type that will hinder your roots in uptaking the more benevolent -ions.

 

( Allthough plants need both types of ions, they will actively reject the bigger part of the +ions but will also exchange some of the -ions back to the soil via the roots after initially uptaking them.complicated shit all wich you dont realy need to know but just for sake of trying to be correct)

 

Ph is the ratio of +ions vs -ions, the scale is logaritmic (check wikipedia for exact multiplication of ion concentration per number up or downwards)

 

For PH reading of your soil you go about the same way as for measuring Ec, exept you don't use rain water but better low EC water of wich you can be certain that it has a PH of 7.0 (neutral)

 

Now if you add this "low EC / 7.0 ph water" to your soil sample and filter it through, then the Ph of the water comming out will depend on the ratio of + and - ions in your soil. This reading is what i would call your soil PH

 

I stress to use low EC water (at least lower than the soil EC) for the reason that if it would be saturated by plus and minus ions but still indicating ph 7, the strenght of your sample water would overrule the ph ratio of your soil, wich would result in an unaccurate reading of your soil Ph.

 

Hope this helps.

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Many thanks DonQuichotte for taking time to answer.

This is more or less what I'm doing at the moment (I put 50/50 soil+ distilled water) but I've never tried to measure several time to see if their were a shift in EC. I'm gonna give this a try. :P

Anyhow, very interesting info about ions too. Should read it again when I'll safely land back to the ground. :P

 

Peace

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Once again useful information provided. I will be using it. Thanks!

 

The soil doesn't feel dry yet, so I will probably move the watering of the plants for tomorrow. I think I will give them 4 or 5 litres (no nutrients, but bacteria yes) and watch how fast they suck it from the pit. Will be more bacteria reproduced by then and I don't want to give any chances for drowning my plants.

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@weedstiti & ledm8, TY ,YW. :P Other advanced growers once teached me this stuff, so now it's my turn to pass it on.

 

It's all rather basic stuff realy and once you wrap your mind around it, all verry logic and not as complex as it might sound at first.

 

@ ledm8, first thing I noticed when I saw your fotos was the burned tipleafes of your plants.

 

There is a logic behind that too, normally it happens when ppl have overnuted their plants a bit too much on occacion, but in your case it is because they have been too dry at times in combination with your rich feed.

 

If soil temporary dry's too much, the ion concentration in your soil becomes verry much higher, causing your leaf tips to burn. (since roots were obstructed to take up water due to a too rich ion concentration)

 

It is verry difficult to get the watering done correctly when giving exclusivly from below on relative small mediums like you have.

 

Down below, the roots will most of the time be having it too wet, whereas in the upperlayers of your soil, it most of the time will be too dry.

 

If you try to compensate for it by giving multiple times a day minimal amounts of water, your roots down below will be to wet at all times.

 

And watering bits from above is not a good thing to do in your situation as I explained earlyer since it would wash down all the salt christals that have been accumulated in the upper layer now, down back to the roots where you dont want it.

 

There is one way I sometimes practiced under certain circumstances that could help you overcome this problem differently,but it may be somewhat laboursome in your situation, so it is up to you if you want to do it or not.

 

That way is to place your pots on a 1 or 2 cm thick layer of (unfertilised) peat to then sprankle and compress a 5 to 10 cm thick layer of this same peat around your pots.

 

If you keep this peat layer good moist but never so wet that water will stand at the bottom, the cappilair action of the peat will let it travel through the holes in your pots, allowing your roots to get it administred more evenly and with plenty of oxigen in it.

 

The peat layer besides the pots will act as a reservoir/buffer to hold your water.

 

But yeh, it's a shitty job to get all that peat in place i know, but im only saying

 

No need to thank me for it either lol It's just something I know of that actually works, but I understand too that it's not everyones piece of cake ;) :P

 

But but, Now when you start giving clean water with no nutes in it for a while... you will notice at some point that they will start drinking like never before, causing you even more trouble to keep up the water supply correctly.

 

So so, well well, decisions decisions lol, happily I got it easyer, only have to sit here and write how its done ;)

 

PS. some ppl place their pots on water absorbing mats, fueling these mats with a wick system from a nearby bucket.

 

Others, before they fill the pots with soil, will hang a "wick-like" braided nylon string (1 cm diameter) going from hole to hole over the bottom from their pots like the letter "n", and let the lower ends of the wick suck up water from a reservoir underneath the pots. Just for the record.

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