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How to Grow Hydro Flooding Style

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Hello OpenGrowers,


In this topic i am going to talk about Hydrogrowing, flooding style. My favorite way of growing.

Not only talking, but also showing allot of pictures. Gear, Setup, Building,Growing,Shedule, Results = in one topic.

Pictures can give u a better idea how it all works.

As detailed as possible i will try to do my best to work it out as good as possible.


Hydro makes allot of people affraid, but there is not reason to.

Perfekt control, allot of speed + power and big buds are the keywords.

This is where we all aim at.


Lets start with the gear,


A BudBox tent, 1.2 m², but u can actually use every brand and size, as long u adapt everything.



600 watts Master Son-T PIA from Philips.

Philips is one of the best brands out there.



Carbon filter, 350 kub


Exhaust ventilator 452m³


Good quality tubes



The crates to grow in, they are in fact laundry baskets. It was a nice color, good quality and they fitted perfektly.

Everybody is free to chose what they want, but the size has to be at least 20 to 25 liters.

Run to your toystore or plastic store to buy them, growshops cannot help u.

Transparant crates are nice to see, but when light leaks to the roots they will die. Also this type of plastic is weaker after short period of growing.

When u buy crates, then buy 1 or even 2 more then u need. This extra crate u gonna need to press the flushed mapito to restart a grow.

Measure your flooding table, measure your crates so everything fits in perfektly.


Some other elektric gear,




Low quality dimmer, when dimmed to much this one gives a humming sound. Best buy stays a climate controller, but this works to.


Fire Safety



Next update, ill show the flooding table and system setup.

Also much easier then u think.


All begin is a bit boring, but we have to start somewhere. :)

Things are going to get freaky in a while.


Grdz e$ko,

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The crates fit perfektly, the table will be the size of the tent.



Drilling holes in the crates

NEVER drill holes into more then one crate at a time. The plastic will break by the pressure if u try multiple at a time.

for soil i used this


for hydro i drill extra holes in the sides to improve the suction allot.

I dont have a pic of it, so i used paint and my drawing skills.lol. But this is it.

The extra spare crates dont get drilled with holes.


Input air 225m³


Fixing the exhaust and filter








Creating a cheap wooden frame, covered with clear plastic foil.

The chain and hooks make it adaptable on the size of the plants.







The Flooding table, Custom made PE plastic plate, sealed togheter by a proffesional. One hole in the front to pump up the water and let it run back.

I paid around 150 euro to let this make. Iff u dont want to buy this or cant find it, then some handy skills can make almost the same with wood and foil.





In stead of building a low table to hold the flooding table i have another easy trick.

Again crates. I buy them few mm higher then my reservoir(left side).


After some puzling


+ the table on it (the input air tube is behind the table, not visable, but its there)


Finally ... u need camouflage :)



Next update will go about flushing mapito, planting clones and use the plastic foil screen + a glimp of the pumpingsystem.

Preparing for takeoff.


All these pictures are from a few years ago,

so yea, i still have some thousands of pictures from all the grows i did in the mean time. :D

I think its time to open up pandoras box.


Grdz e$ko,

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Hoi Esko,


Nice to see a setup for more people possible to build :) .


CArefully watchin how you do this.


I work with blumats in soil.

The blumats keep the toplayer of the soil constantly wet with as result white fungi.Seems harmless to the plants but its stressy to watch.

Not to mention carryin about 9 bags of soil, but thats not too much.


Hope this topic gives an idea of how to it hydroway.


Thanks for sharing.

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At last an esko thread :D i like the way you hang the wooden frame with hooks and simply attach some clear plastic=instant greenhouse. now lets see some big esko buds :) mack

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I'm in. I want to learn how to grow hydro. Can't think of a better way. :)


Thanks for the show E$ko!



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Fantastic thread E$ko, this is just what I need to help me figure out what to do for my area. It is about the same size as the space you are showing us and I have been thinking of seting up a flood and drain system. This thread could not have come at a better time. I love the growth and logic behind watering from below and the root mass from those large containers have me thinking......


This clear plastic "foil" you are using, is it used to cut down on node stretching during early flowering? I have heard of this technique but have never had an explanation, let alone pictures of it in use. I am intrigued.


I would like to remind everyone to silence their cell phones while we are here in class. :)

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^^ the plastic foil acts as a mini greenhouse,keeping the humiditity high, plants really love this,so grow much faster. m@ck.

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The plastic foils has several advantages,


- the light can be pushed much closer then normally. 600 Hps can be 30 cm from the leaf canopy, as long the plastic shield is there and bumps the heats radiation from that lamp.

This effect will push the plants to grow lower and spread wider, yes even sativas.

- the intake air is aimed at the lamp, above the plastic, so above the plastic its hotter then below. Below the plastic there is a healthy humid enviroment created.

- The fun starts when u remove the plastic at end the second week of flowering. In matter of days, they stretch out and fill up the tent.

(end of second week flowering , why? because most of the plants only start flowering for real at this point)


It does not have to be a exact copy of this screen, iff u cant build good yourself, just put some sticks around your growroom and cover with plastic.

Bring down the lamp, but make sure the heat radiation does not melt the plastic.

Always keep in mind that the exhaust will pull up a bit the plastic, so give some space.

It can be dangerous iff u hang the lamp to low. So put your hand between it and feel.


The screen will be explained later on in this topic + more pictures.


Grdz e$ko,

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Hi mate,


Funnily enough i posted this yesterday in drip-n-wet' thread



Hi there,


I think what e$ko is saying, is to cover them with crystal clear plastic sheeting, creating a greenhouse like a propagator, basicly a humidity tent. He advised me about it and i have just made one out of treated wood to go under my 4ft x 2ft 8 tube T5. I made a frame like a table without a top, covered in clear plastic, next week it will be high tech when i get a piece of pre-cut-to-size clear perspex to cover the top. I have got a fan blowing over the top which means i can have the light lower, stopping the heat radiation.


Good luck




Does that sound about right?


Will be keeping my eye on this one...........

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Hello all,


This update is going about preparing Mapito (rockwool cubes and pieces) to restart or to start.

The example that will be showed here is flushing used mapito.

When u use new mapito, u can skip the cleaning of the mapito and start flushing straight away.

Normally when u buy new bags of rockwool or mapito, this is allready steamed. But ... never say never, u must flush.

Fresh mapito dont have to be flushed as long as re-used mapito.


Use gloves, rockwool stings your skin

Dry rockwool or mapito, make sure u do not breath it, just like perlite this is dangerous and bad for your lungs.

Only open up the bags of rockwool a bit, when it seems to dry, spray some water in that bag. Problem = solved.

I advise the same system when using perlite mixing into soil.


The example showed here, the flushing is done outside, some have privacy in there garden and some not, that choice stays free.

In this particular case, the growroom was few meters away from the side of the garden, so it was easy to take the crates outside.

Big hydro flooding growers build in a kind of shower cabinet for several crates at one time.

These days, i flush and clean my mapito for restart, on the table itself.

All the drainwater that drips into the reservoir gets pumped away in the gutter from the roof.

So in this system, the crates do not even leave the growroom.


Lets begin,

Cleaning the old leftovers from the earlier grow, dont bother to peel of all the rockwool perfektly, trow it away. u will only lose few.

This is in fact the only waste there will be. The plant material = buds get smoked, cutting waste for hashish, stems and leaves for compost.



When u have picked out every organic wastal from the plants, a empty crate get placed on top (yes ... the extra crate now comes handy)


Now u turn everything, so the used mapito gets upside down in the empty crate.



At this point, u will see the difference between when u are using enzymes and not.

With enzymes the roots will be like in this picture, without enzymes the roots will be lots harder to cleanup.


the mapito gets opened up and cleaned up a bit + making the structure lose again. The thicker roots take more time to disolve, so help and take them away as much u can (or like to do that day :)

Some fresh mapito can be added at this point. After every grow u will lose a few % of volume, so u have to add some.

For the example tent u need, u need about 2 bags per year of fresh mapito to add.

After 3,4,5,... times of reflushing the rockwool, the structure can become to dense. Thats why adding fresh mapito keep on giving its fresh and airy structure.

The flushing begins with a garden hose, tapwater.

Rainwater can be used, as long there are no dirts in it. Rainwater is more sensetive to diseases in a clean growing enviroment.




After some minutes of flushing, the water almost runs over the crate.

This is the time to stop.

Iff u would measure the ec and ph value of your start water, the drain water will be the same.

So the rockwool has become neutral, flushed away from every flowering nute


This crate can put aside to leak out, and another one can be done in the mean time.

After the leaking out (10 to 15 minutes), u take a empty crate (with no drilled holes in it, cause u would have wet feet) and u press with what u can.

Outside u can stand in the crate and let your bodyweight press, when u would flush on the table u can use your hands.

This does not has to be long, about 15 to 30 seconds is enough.


This action is ment to drop the to much moist and air up the rockwool structure again.


Now again, the pressed mapito is made lose again. A big wooden spoon is a marvelous piece of equipment to do it.

When u notice the volume of the crate is not satisfiying to grow in, u can still add a little bit of fresh rockwool at this point.

U dont need to repeat all the flushing steps, the little bit u add will do no harm at all.

Make sure u avoid it ... this experience u only learn by doing it, so dont be disapointed in the beginning.


Ready to rummmmmble ...



Next update will go about, how to plant and start the system.

U have seen the preparation of the medium, now it is allmost time for liftoff.


Have a nice day,


Grdz e$ko,

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Pulled up a chair and will be watching with great interest.

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Allright, lets have a look at the shedule.

I tried to make it as good as possible.




No hidden secrets or magic things.


People that are planning to grow much longer flowering strains, just spread out this shedule.

For example a Mango Haze will be in the Flowingeringveg phase up to 4, even sometimes 5 weeks.

Only then the real flowering will begin. Then the floweringhormone takes over.

Everything before this point is in fact still veg phase, but its switching softly towards flowering.

So, yes growing nutes in the first FloweringVeg phase.

A plant that is put on 12/12 will never start flowering straight away, respect the switching weeks and treat them like veg.


@ your service.


Grdz e$ko,

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Could you use coco like mapito by chance?

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The shedule i have given is finetuned to grow on rockwool or mapito.

Do u notice i did not put a name with the nutes? u can use whatever nutes u want.

I use Hesi Hydro nutes myself, cause those are the only ones that can give me a healthy crop on the lowest EC possible.


But ...


The basic principle, flooding, works with every medium.


Flushing of cocos is much harder, also to clean it up to restart.

U also cant keep on using it.


U have to adapt the hydro nutes to cocos nutes.


The suction of cocos is less then that from mapito and rockwool.

So u will have to flood a bit longer.


Cocos does not grow so fast like hydromediums, so u would have to give, 3 up to 5 days of veg to have a decent plant volume.


Grdz e$ko,

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A true gentleman and a scholar as they say. Thank you esko.

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This is more than awesome! So many "Thank You"s Esko!

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Very nice start Esko !


I was looking toward Hydro or Coco for my next grow .. to avoid having dirt in the whole house :)

I think i'll read your "Hydro for Dummies" guide to the end and then make my opinion :D


Thanks a lot !




PS : oh i got a little question, i found mapito to buy (around 35€/100l ..), but i also own some rockwool left when we re-insulated our house, as well as PU insulation plates (2.5m*1.20m), is it possible to make my own, just crushing pu to small pieces and mixing with rockwool ? What's the ratio Rock wool / pu in the mapito ? Is PU of any NEED, or is it used cause it's cheaper than bare rockwool ? (yeah, it's more than one question, it always ends this way with me .. sorry .. lol)

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Great thread Esko! Thanks for taking the time to post it.


Françoise> I'm not sure where you are from but in North America the rockwool you get for insulating your house is not the same as horticulural rockwool. Rockwool home insulation is water repellent and fire retardent this means it is treated with something. In my experience water won't wet down the rockwool insulation so it doesn't work for hydro. Also whatever the treatment is to make it water repellent/fire retardent is probably something that I don't want in my grow or smoke. Just my opinion. Butch BB

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