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joejusttyped

Anyone running Sannie's buffertabs in a Super Soil?

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I've been thinking a lot lately about concocting a lovely 'super soil' using four bags (1.5cu ft each) of Roots Organic's Coco Mix & Earth Juice's Amazon Bloom mediums as my base, with a few amendments (25lbs ewc, 5lbs bone meal, perlite, sannies tabs).

Does any one else use a super soil with the tabs? What is your mix? Would I get away with a mix like that by feeding only with water, and the ocassional tea and earth juice catalyst feedings?

 

Cheers

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Super Soil - the recipe from subcool is a concentrated, amendment rich soil that he puts at the bottom of the pot. It's not the entire soil.

 

Sannie's tabs takes most of those amendments ( the bone, blood, fish meals, the seed meals, the rock dust and dolomite lime and more I forget ) and puts in 1 package.

 

Bone meal + tabs would be too much i think - you need EWC + tabs. That's it.

 

If you are starting with Roots Organics Coco, you're all set. I wouldn't use a blooming soil. If you want bat guano - buy some. Make a tea or a top dressing. Or buy a 1 part organic bloom nutrient.

 

If you've got Light soil + EWC + tabs, you won't need to anything but water until flowering, then, I would reload on Bacto and start with bloom nutes.

 

I usually measure EWC by volume, not by weight, I spread it out, break it up and measure out the amount I want - I like 10-20 % EWC in my soil, YMMV.

I've had the same size bag of EWC come in at 30lbs or at 10 lbs depending on the moisture levels. Try to source the best, fresh, DARK BLACK worm castings, you'll need less and it'll make for better soil.

 

The organic method that you are talking about is worry free, easy and produces HEALTHY plants. Enjoy

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I think you will burn the shit out of your plants.

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I don't know how the buffer tabs would factor in, but I am running a soil mix that I only give RO water and teas to.

 

50% Sphagnum Peat

25% EWC (best you can source or make)

25% Aeration (perlite, pumice, etc. - I am using parboiled rice hulls)

3-4 cups glacial rock dust per cubic foot

1/2 cup per cubic foot ea. of: Neem/Karanja meal, Kelp meal, Crab meal

 

I have a few other things in my latest batch, but that's the basic mix. My plants get a Kelp-Alfalfa tea every week and a half to two weeks (whenever I get to it - less often lately).

 

I'm not sure this would cut it for everything, like maybe some longer flowering sativas, but it's been working great for me so far.

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That is no good , even if is subcool say you can do this , In real life Ive NEVER seen decent bud grown this way...

 

Have you seen subcool's videos on youtube? He's plants yield nothing at all...I personaly dont want to have plants lookking like his stuff...I respect the man and his genetics...I think He cant push them more...

 

When I was commercially growing ..I would Have got beat up by the boss for growing plants like he does...ahaha

 

Real organic nitrient takes too much time to be avalaible for the plant ...If you feed your plant whit shit , weed gonna be shitty...Life of a weed plant is soooo short...Every watering counts...you can't go only with plain water and soil amendments...

 

 

Of course it will grow... But poorly dressed and with defiency of courses,,,

 

All things you've mentionned can be good for outdoor gardens , but indoors ishhh,,,,,And all that bio stuff in the soil exept the tabs is like a welcome carpet for spider thrips gnat name it!

 

I kinda like the tabs concept since its seems sterile

 

Cannabis needs nutrient to give decent final product , you can go bio with product like canna because the shit has been worked like crazy to act nearly fast as chemicals...but the result is still less bigger ...

 

I would add these Bacto tabs to my soil with regular nutes,..I dont think it will replace anything! But it will probably add life in your soil , I personally use mykes...Havent heard of these tabs before! If I had some Ill probably give a try...Im pretty sure its better prepared the soil with this a week before to let the bio life shit happens ...

 

But then dont use any peroxyde or things that will kill this life...

 

I dont think you can burn a crop with good bacteria ...or overdose them since in dosn't really goes into the plant , it lives in symbiosis with the roots,,. Or maybe Im just unaware of what this product realy is...

 

If it dosent change Ph or EC runoff....I dont think you will burn nothing

At my hydro store , the owner always give me a couple gallons of alaskan humic earthworm casting kind -of -teas ...You keep it in the regregirator , and its quite clean to use , instead of all shity ornganics matters,,

And that shit dosent replace any nutes even if it had NPK indic on it...

 

And to me It changes nothing on the yiled and quality of buds..,.I did 100000 crops before addin teas , and it changes nothing...To me its like a little gift for the plants,,,maybe it makes em feel good i dont know ...

 

In othes hand , Mykes (mycorize ) is overpowering the crop...you really can see the result.

 

To be medical , The bud needs to be at his maximum potency of resin and cbd thc alldat , and to achieve it you got to push the strain to the maximum , weed grown the way your talkin will be poor in resin so it wont be efficient enough to call it medical , especially if you dont use treatman against fongus and spider thinking the plant will be more bio = more medical = No!, the plant will suffer from these infections and give a a result that is not suitable for medical use.Plus fongus are 10000 times more dangerous than the product you use to treat em , Im sure I can take a sip and nothing will happens lol..

 

And I really dont know the deal about revers osmosis water , since its not good for plants , its too plane ...Dosn't support the nutes correctly , can stress a plant to a very high level.Unless you have a very bad water source , r-o water is pointles...

 

Rain water is good for plant , dont ask me why , because this is natural reverse osmisisits confusing and I dont know all :( ...God knows he's shit!!

 

Do you drink r-o water?? Even the water we bought for drinkin is mineralized,....Just let your water sit for 24h with an airstone to get the clorure off...

 

I personally drink my water with clorure , I dont give a S** haha

 

Have a nice grow yall!

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Hey Joejusttyped,interesting thing is that i was using Subcool supersoil mix but with different products(here i dont have azomite,so i was using some other product,also i was using lot of kelp-meal,puryfied meat-meal and some spirulina powder)then also i was using 3 buffer-tabs in the same pot and all i got is beautifoul and healty plant with very potent buds,she was healty but then again she was hybrid-MAD SHACK,i dont know what will happened if i give this treatment to pure sativas who are sensitive on nutes.About supersoil,-i think that you can make this mix with different kind of meals,also if you dont have Azomite you can use some sort of granite dust who is rich with nature minerals,the longer this mix is naturaly brewing in bin and bacteries working his job the better will be for plants,so we need to wait,now in this moment i have about 3 cubic meters of Subcool supersoil(my recipe) that is old about 6 months,so next time i will grow with this soil-mix,also i will use it for outdoor this season.If you want pic of this plant before i choped her i can show you.

Greets,DJ

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I would not advice to feed in veg with the Buffer Tabs but thats up to the user...

 

I have tried all kinds of different ways with these little Tabs and found its strain dependent of coarse....

 

mmmmm i dont think you can argue with the yeilds you can get from organic's

 

it's not what you have got but how you use it :tu Bacto helps to break done the feed ect...you will get tip burn

 

 

 

 

Organic's rocks

 

 

grtz carper

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We advise to use as less nutrients as possible when using the 4 steps feeding schedule from sanniesshop.

When using a nutrient poor soil to start a plant it will root faster and the mycorrhiza colony will grow fast with the roots, when there is already enough or to much nutrients in the soil the mycorrhiza's will grow much slower or not.

The buffer tablets will be releasing its nutrients slow and the mycorrhiza's can start growing, when the nutrients are releasing from the tabs the colony already started. In this way we use the best of both worlds.

 

The buffer tablets are to buffer your soil a complete cyclus and give nutrients for your plant unto week 3 flower.

Most of the growers has the idea to put in more to get more result, but especially with organic growing more is not better. If you want to use extra soil amendments I would advise to use a bio-char, perfect start and worm castings to improve and enhance the soil.

 

Products with more PK I would use as a topdressing or when you have to transplant before flowering, when you have vegged on a low nutrient mix with a good root system you can use a stronger soil mix with added products like complete organics, palm tree ash etc....

 

The 4 steps we are selling in the shop are giving us optimal results with some of the biggest harvests we have done.

 

greetz sannie

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gallery_6144_2863_679341.jpgThat small cola is from combination of supersoil 1/3 of pot,3 buffer tabs,2/3normal soil-mix,so for me organics kicks a...,and to week 4 only plain water,then little bit flowring nutes, mollasses,and every 2 weeks bacto.

Peace,DJ

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Yeah it's super soil (lol nothing super about it) or buffer tabs .not both. as carper said it can be strain dependant as I use bIOCANNA soil which is aliitle hot..........with tabs... but i only use on strain I know can deal with it and that are a bit mature.

Personally as said above......... fair do to Subcool on his work but IMO he has been risen up by stupid Breeder worship...... he ain't worth the hype it's a plant from nature an d he created nothing really...........but assisted nature..........it's like DJ's they don't make music (most) just mix tracks but yet ppl still put them on a pedestal.

 

My 2cents............ screw super soil and go either TABS or Hydro lol

 

Grtz HC :P

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I think you will burn the shit out of your plants.

 

Maybe you didn't intend this comment to be funny, but I just got some good chuckles off it. :) Just finished burning the shit out of some plants myself.

 

I burned up 5 nice little seedlings awhile back from hot (nuclear) soil. At least in hydro you can flush right away. When you burn in soil, I'm sure recovery is always longer, harder, and yield will be affected more.

 

Go easy and amend with water borne nutes if you have to, I say. Next round, you can add what was lacking. My $.02

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On 5/19/2012 at 9:36 AM, sannie said:

We advise to use as less nutrients as possible when using the 4 steps feeding schedule from sanniesshop.

When using a nutrient poor soil to start a plant it will root faster and the mycorrhiza colony will grow fast with the roots, when there is already enough or to much nutrients in the soil the mycorrhiza's will grow much slower or not.

The buffer tablets will be releasing its nutrients slow and the mycorrhiza's can start growing, when the nutrients are releasing from the tabs the colony already started. In this way we use the best of both worlds.

 

The buffer tablets are to buffer your soil a complete cyclus and give nutrients for your plant unto week 3 flower.

Most of the growers has the idea to put in more to get more result, but especially with organic growing more is not better. If you want to use extra soil amendments I would advise to use a bio-char, perfect start and worm castings to improve and enhance the soil.

 

Products with more PK I would use as a topdressing or when you have to transplant before flowering, when you have vegged on a low nutrient mix with a good root system you can use a stronger soil mix with added products like complete organics, palm tree ash etc....

 

The 4 steps we are selling in the shop are giving us optimal results with some of the biggest harvests we have done.

 

greetz sannie

What about potency ?

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On 5/18/2012 at 9:59 PM, JeanGuySeeds said:

That is no good , even if is subcool say you can do this , In real life Ive NEVER seen decent bud grown this way...

 

Have you seen subcool's videos on youtube? He's plants yield nothing at all...I personaly dont want to have plants lookking like his stuff...I respect the man and his genetics...I think He cant push them more...

 

When I was commercially growing ..I would Have got beat up by the boss for growing plants like he does...ahaha

 

Real organic nitrient takes too much time to be avalaible for the plant ...If you feed your plant whit shit , weed gonna be shitty...Life of a weed plant is soooo short...Every watering counts...you can't go only with plain water and soil amendments...

 

 

Of course it will grow... But poorly dressed and with defiency of courses,,,

 

All things you've mentionned can be good for outdoor gardens , but indoors ishhh,,,,,And all that bio stuff in the soil exept the tabs is like a welcome carpet for spider thrips gnat name it!

 

I kinda like the tabs concept since its seems sterile

 

Cannabis needs nutrient to give decent final product , you can go bio with product like canna because the shit has been worked like crazy to act nearly fast as chemicals...but the result is still less bigger ...

 

I would add these Bacto tabs to my soil with regular nutes,..I dont think it will replace anything! But it will probably add life in your soil , I personally use mykes...Havent heard of these tabs before! If I had some Ill probably give a try...Im pretty sure its better prepared the soil with this a week before to let the bio life shit happens ...

 

But then dont use any peroxyde or things that will kill this life...

 

I dont think you can burn a crop with good bacteria ...or overdose them since in dosn't really goes into the plant , it lives in symbiosis with the roots,,. Or maybe Im just unaware of what this product realy is...

 

If it dosent change Ph or EC runoff....I dont think you will burn nothing

At my hydro store , the owner always give me a couple gallons of alaskan humic earthworm casting kind -of -teas ...You keep it in the regregirator , and its quite clean to use , instead of all shity ornganics matters,,

And that shit dosent replace any nutes even if it had NPK indic on it...

 

And to me It changes nothing on the yiled and quality of buds..,.I did 100000 crops before addin teas , and it changes nothing...To me its like a little gift for the plants,,,maybe it makes em feel good i dont know ...

 

In othes hand , Mykes (mycorize ) is overpowering the crop...you really can see the result.

 

To be medical , The bud needs to be at his maximum potency of resin and cbd thc alldat , and to achieve it you got to push the strain to the maximum , weed grown the way your talkin will be poor in resin so it wont be efficient enough to call it medical , especially if you dont use treatman against fongus and spider thinking the plant will be more bio = more medical = No!, the plant will suffer from these infections and give a a result that is not suitable for medical use.Plus fongus are 10000 times more dangerous than the product you use to treat em , Im sure I can take a sip and nothing will happens lol..

 

And I really dont know the deal about revers osmosis water , since its not good for plants , its too plane ...Dosn't support the nutes correctly , can stress a plant to a very high level.Unless you have a very bad water source , r-o water is pointles...

 

Rain water is good for plant , dont ask me why , because this is natural reverse osmisisits confusing and I dont know all :( ...God knows he's shit!!

 

Do you drink r-o water?? Even the water we bought for drinkin is mineralized,....Just let your water sit for 24h with an airstone to get the clorure off...

 

I personally drink my water with clorure , I dont give a S** haha

 

Have a nice grow yall!

Super soil is too hot. And yes you can grow big yielding sticky buds in living organic soil. I use nothing but water, teas in the Gas / Coots mix. I get 3 to 4 runs a year and last one was 10 oz’s a pot.
 

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3FA06B63-55FC-4E87-8A0D-49475FDFCEEB.jpeg

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I dislike speaking against someone who is no longer here but I said this before when subcool was alive.

I also should say, me and him did not get along.  That is between me and him but I had made comment on that in the past.

Anyways the reason for my post here.

 

Subcool and myself along with many others, are the beneficiaries of an older group of growers who shared their soil workings.  Old school stuff way way before internet.

Now each person pretty much tries to put their stamp on those old lessons but lets be clear here.

  • Super soil recipes did not originate with anyone alive today. 
    • Subcool did not invent anything but adding his two cents to established and proven recipes.
    • Not meant as pure negative.  Just like with mapito, each grower puts their own finger prints on their method.
  • Many of those recipes todays are the main recipe with additives to put their stamp on it. 
    • These likely work for that grower but often when replicated the soil can be too hot for some who have different genetics, different growth stages and different environment.  These differences can mean significant end results.

In my basic soil recipe I emphasize pest control and I make not as strong.  For me, it is works like magic.  In fact.  for me.  I am more proud of my soils than my plants and that is a bold statement.  When combined with IMO's from natural farming you can feel the life in the soils.

All that said, it truly helps to understand your plants and soil biology and make up as to dial in the best media and media nutrition to meet your genetics and environment.  It is all one big circle.

 

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@Hempyfan the Gas / Coots mix is just the old Cornell University recipe and I actually use Gas’s version, Coots version also runs a little hot. I too get as much joy with my soil as the plants, it’s fun to watch the life develop and start farming for you.

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On 2/4/2020 at 10:49 AM, Zeus77 said:

What about potency ?

I have a run with sannies 4 step methods amd the potency was super perfect !!

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