My runt is turning yellow. Should I be worried?

[TheLMF 0]

Hey everybody! This girly is Green Chili! She's the runt of a litter of 20 plants I started for my first grow. When all the other plants were hitting 18in, she was still only 3 inches tall but I didn't have the heart to throw it away. I got way to attached.

 

Now here it is looking better than all the others, but the leaves deeper into it are turning yellow. I'm hoping it's nothing to worry about, but I thought I'd play it safe and ask since I'm still quite new at this. Is there anything I should do about it? I'm not really using any nutes on it. Just soil and water.

 

Also these big bulbs have appeared and I wasn't sure if that's just big preflowers or if it's growing funny on me. I just worry about it because it was always such a slow growing runt. Does anyone know why it would be so slow at growing in the beginning, then just take off like it did?

 

Thanks for any input yall can share!

[Don Joe 5]

Heya LMF plant is overall very healty,you need to give her little bit Nitrogen,but be really light on nutes and look in the days after feeding at plant to see is there some changes,if not give her than again light dose of grow nutes.This preflowers are from lady,they are big and nothing to worry,just grow your lady and be easy on nutes,later you will change grow nutes for flowering ones.You will found that if you use mineral or chemical nutes that one third or less is much better for plant then full dosage,like they write on bottle.

Also if you use mineral nutes allways first give her plain PH- water and after that give her water with nutes,this kind of feeding is more better than giving a plant just water with nutes.

Who made this strain?

Greets,DJ

[TheLMF 0]

Thanks a ton DJ! Sadly, I'm not really sure who made this strain, or even what it is, as all the seeds were randomly collected from friends and random bags. I think it's probably not the best strain since it came from seedy bud, probably from an accidental hermie? I sure wish I talked to you before I went to town with the nutes on my other plants. I went normal dosage according to the Fox Farm bottles and burned em alive.

 

For nitrogen should I use BIG BLOOM which is 0.01-0.3-0.7, GROW BIG which is 6-4-4, or should I go find something else? I'm not really sure if those are mineral or chemical nutes, but they are both fox farm. I see you are an organic grower. Does that mean you don't use any bottled nutes or something? Are there advantages and disadvantages to growing organically?

[thesamyboy 428]

those numbers are N P K - nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). In veg, plants need more Nitrogren, once they start flowering after the strech, they will want more P & K.

Don't mind the numbers themselves, just the ratios from 1 to the other. It would look like Grow big has more P & K than Big Bloom, that's not the case. It's just a ratio relevant only to that 1 product. Higher number doesn't mean stronger or more concentrated either... essentially, the numbers in the front are mostly BS, just an general indication of which nutrient is more or less prevalent.

 

Are the other seeds showing the same preflowers?

You're looking for a small bulb with a white hair coming out. They are usually in pairs, one on each side of the branch node.

That looks a little big to be a preflower... and I think i see regular preflowers in the background, it's hard to tell though without an up close shot but she looks female to me.

 

EDIT - I apologize in advance for writing way too much... but folks know me for that already i think!

 

Organic means a few different things to different folks, here is what it means to me:

 

1. Control over my ingredients. Most bottles don't disclose exactly what is inside ( and how they sourced these nutrients ). For each nutrient, their is a quality factor, which form that nutrient is in and how easy is it for the plant to eat up that nutrient. A solid block of pure Calcium won't do any good, calcium pills crushed up aren't the same as Calcium from egg shells for example...

 

2. Price. If a manufacturer takes worm castings and makes it into a liquid product, that's 1 more person that is getting between the worm and my soil... and 1 more person making profit. Between the individual nute companies, their distributors, the hydro store... that's 3 people that have a markup that would make you cringe if you saw the cost. I work in distribution, we just move product and we pretty much sell everything at double what we buy it for. The retailers that buy from us ( we make the price stickers so I know ) straight up double our price 1 more time. A $5 item to manufacturer gets up to about 20-30 bucks easy by the time you buy it. Throw in $1.50 in packaging and that item is up to 50-70 bucks.

 

3. Leeway. Organic soil is based on soil life. Roots and bacteria and fungi and worms... all these things co-exist and they all supply each other with exactly what they need. When the plant needs nutrients, it's available in the soil and it takes exactly what it needs, the usage of those nutrients allows the rest of the soil life to perpetuate.

Organic soil allows you to literally mix in all the nutrients you would need for 2 months worth of growth and that's it. Just water and the plant consumes whatever it needs.

Chem nutrients are only available within a range of PH, many of these bottles are just mineral salts dissolved in water, the problem with salt based nutrients is that when the soil gets too wet or too dry or after a few months of saturating the soil with nutes, you get salt buildup and the PH is swingign and plants can't get in a range where they can conduct nutrients from salt to root. Not saying that dealing with PH and salt buildup is a symtom of something bad, just different concerns.

 

Disadvantages:

 

time - researching dolomite lime for 4-5 hours isn't super fun, or finding out why 1 humic acid isn't the same as the other, or investigating how different companies extract kelp is very time consuming.

 

money - good quality organic ingredients are usually not the easiest to source, shipping costs are high... if you buy local ( recommended ) buying larger quantities of product deffinitly adds up, many things have to be bought in large quantities for it to make any sense. Hydro stores will just keep selling $15 bottles and give you 1 for free everytime, so it doesn't feel like as much of an expense at times... my bottle of bloom nutes lasted 2 grows, my$ 100 bag of rock dust will last 10 years...

 

ease - prepping soil months ahead of time to give all the amendments " fermenting time " is messy and time consuming... and 3 big garbage cans full of dirt takes up space. Organic growers often employ beneficial teas, ( increase soil life, add nutrients or prepare a foliar spray ). You have to set up a brewing bucket and have things brew for a day or two.. and clean up the equipment... but mostly you can't prep any nutrients or teas ahead of time because they will spoil ( and the bacteria will go wild and fuck things up ). Many organic P & K boosters ( even bottled ones ) will also go bad quickly when mixed.

 

Some like big pots of soil because they can water a lot and be okay for 4-5 days, they find soil to be pretty easy going

some like hydro because just fill up the reservoir and you can go on vacation for a week ( or two if you have a really good setup )

Some tools like bluemats ( automatic watering system that measures when you soil is getting too dry ) are there to ease the pains of watering plants often, but for a few reasons, organic nutrients sitting in the reservoir waiting to be pumped isn't optimal.

 

For me, it's about funding a big corporation vs a small local farm that has worm castings. It's also about going back to the days when it wasn't about sprays and fertilizers and pesticides... I'm not looking to max out cannalitics charts but I'm serious about quality. Yield does matter, at the price of electricity, damn right I'm counting grams but I won't sacrifice taste for yield.... I'll grow another strain if this one doesn't please me.

Flavor, taste, smell, these are things that can be manipulated and improved upon with experience. Some people prefer the taste of soil or organic, some people say that the smell / taste just isn't as strong as with hydro... Like I said , yield is deffinitly a factor, hydro is known for speed and yield.

 

You'll have to your own judge as to what's worth it to you.

 

I am also the resident baker in the house ( second favorite hobby ) and it always freaks my girlfriend out when she sees me mixing ingredients without measuring... I can tell if the dough needs more water or if the yeast isn't taking... She's a great cook, but she brings out teaspoons and tablespoons for a dash of salt or 1 tsp of vanilla... But I look over her shoulder and I would have said that her dish was too dry or that the proportions are wrong, but I taste it and I love it... Different techniques, both made with love... you get great results either way.

Half the pleasure of doing anything ( growing especially though ) is having fun on the way and enjoying it the way you wanted to enjoy it.

[Don Joe 5]

Its easy LMF,when i was start to growing i was use mineral nutes and at first grows i didnt feel happy because i was destroying my crop with too much love(read-too much nutes).If you grow in pots you must to be very carefoul on nutes,because you will create mineral nute salts deposit and made your soil more acidic,and then you will must to flush your soil because MJ dont like this deposits of mineral salts and changed PH in soil,if you made organics no flushing,organics nutes are better for plants because they are not such agrresive like mineral nutes,organic nutes feed bacterial life in soil thru a symbiosis with mychorhizal funghi,and mineral nutes killing this soil organismus and mychoriza funghi.So what is better,organics or mineral,for me its organics because i enjoy in beauty of my plants,they dont have any kind of defficite and they grow whithout any problem what you can see when you grow with mineral nutes,so for me if plants are happy i am happy too.Then i know what i was put inside my soil and i am not worried that i will put some nasty chemicals inside my lungs,everything is natural,also i can reuse my soil mix by adding some fresh organic amendments inside and live her for 30 days or more to ferment so i can reuse it again in next grow(want to tell you that organic soil is every time better and better with reusing).

Also i dont use PH/EC meter,even i have new one from Hanna and all this calibrated liquids for calibration,my life is more easier,dont ask myself so much questions like when i was growing with chemical nutes,my life is much more better when i start to use organics,but i have only 10 plants under 600 W,maybe somewane who grow more plants and they grow for money think differently then me,but if i need to grow for myself it will be only organics because i think that i deserve best and true medical MJ.

Bad thing is that you in USA dont have developed Carp-fishing,because most of amendments for soil i buy in Carp-fishing store and they have great quality,some things they have that growing industry still didnt understand that they can use to sell people who growing,also i can buy bulk packs so everything is really cheap.

Want to tell you that Sannies 4 step products are top notch for organics and MJ,also other companies who made organics products like mychorizal inocullant,bacteries you can use to try organic method of growing,look for a people if you want to try organics who grow world record super big pumpkins,they use lot of mychorizal funghies,thats why their pumpkins have epic proportions.

If you use nutes for growing,then this formula 6-4-4 is for this stage of growing(name said-Grow Big).

From bottled nutes i use-Blackstreep Mollasses,Kelp extract and B.A.C.-organic bloom and PK,so everything is organic on the end.

For soil amendments i use-LT-94(special type of fish meal),bloodmeal,puryfied meat-meal,poultrymeal,kelp-meal,probiotic yeast,worm-castings,spirulina powder,granite powder,bone meal.

I dont use all this amendments for soil together,thats the thing i still study and try to find best formula.

LMF if you need help with organics,i will give all informations i know about this style,remember i still dont know all about organics but i didnt destroy one plant with my organic soil-mixes and feeding,au contrairre,they really thriving on organics for me.

Greets,DJ

P.S.-I still didnt found Humic acid here where i live,thats the product that is great for organics method.

[Misterdirt 11,962]

The plant looks good, LMF. And don't fret about the fact that it was from bagseed. Bagseed is the perfect practice seed, and I find that bagseed grows ALMOST ALWAYS produce better weed than the weed that was in the bag. (I had two plants that did not measure up over the years, which is less than 1%.)

 

Yellowing at the bottom of the plant means the plant is tapping those leaves for nitrogen. In veg or the first week or two of flowering, you want to add some N. If it happens well into flowering, you pretty much live with it, and add nutes sparingly.

[Don Joe 5]

Now i was look at page of FFox nutes,you already grow organic,i was read that GROW BIG and BIG BLOOM are organic nutes,bravo girl,you dont even know that you grow organic method,hehe,nice pick you made in shop.

Greets,DJ

[bobbiroo 441]

I just finished my first grow which was a bag seed. The harvest was way better than the bag she came from, in smell, taste and potency. I made my mistakes on her but now I've graduated to trying some of Sannie and E$ko's seeds.

 

You found the best forum on the planet. These guys know their stuff and are so kind and helpful.

[TheLMF 0]

Hello Everybody!

 

 

I'm back with another problem with Green Chili.

 

 

She is now bigger than our grill, so that's pretty cool, but many of her leaves are turning yellow. They aren't just happening at the bottom of the plant but just randomly throughout her. Her leaves have been turning for a couple weeks now, and she is now into her 3rd week of flowering and we have kept her outside under the real sun. (as opposed to the fake one i guess...?)

 

Some pics:

Zoomed in picture of one yellowing leaf

Zoomed out on one side

...and the other side.

 

Any help would be amazing. I was told not to attack a N deficiency for sure, but that's all I know right now. =/