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silver surfer

small LED grow round 4

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No one can denigh your Skillz mate with LED ..... Great shows every time .

 

Grtz HC

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agent orange at 16 days still under 250HPS, got 2 females / 5 pack, I love them, beautiful plants, the 1 is a bit taller than the 2

 

the 1:

gallery_3562_3666_138824.jpg

gallery_3562_3666_365223.jpg

 

the 2:

gallery_3562_3666_149495.jpggallery_3562_3666_148300.jpg

 

 

The Pure TFD (skunk#1) at 40 days, she had nutrients issues, 2 tabs for 9L pot and a bit too much liquid nutrients, and she is very sensitive, I thought it was an easy to grow plant, NO, she don't. The smell is A-ma-zing, i love it. I don't know why i waited so long to grow pure skunk genes, I ever loved skunk.

 

gallery_3562_3666_75871.jpg

 

 

very nice structure, i have a mother, next time i will grow her under leds

gallery_3562_3666_212163.jpg

 

the tent, growlab 80x80, 250W plantastar/lumatek AAW, 3 plants

gallery_3562_3666_304754.jpg

 

 

 

grtz

Silva

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The Pure TFD (skunk#1) at 40 days, she had nutrients issues, 2 tabs for 9L pot and a bit too much liquid nutrients, and she is very sensitive, I thought it was an easy to grow plant, NO, she don't. The smell is A-ma-zing, i love it. I don't know why i waited so long to grow pure skunk genes, I ever loved skunk.

 

gallery_3562_3666_75871.jpg

 

 

very nice structure, i have a mother, next time i will grow her under leds

gallery_3562_3666_212163.jpg

 

 

 

Hello,

 

i've grown it 9 years ago, for 3 years, a good strain.

easy to grow and with a good and fast harvest. different pheno i've found was in the pistil colors (from pink to red).

 

from TFD, i can suggest the Haley's Comet : some still talk to me about this strain, as to grow than to smoke. a great rooter and too strong for "little" smokers ;)

i've tried other strains from them, by 10 seeds :

-Aurora B. : i've found 1 very good taste pheno to smoke but with a poor yield. remember me the NYCD story...

-Haze Mist : i've grown it but with a never-end flow'... very disappointed.

 

thank you for your share, i wish you to continue with such good grows!

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thank you for the tips Rollit, i appreciate. So you found many phenos? she is not very homogeneous so?

 

I had two nice Agent Orange males, I tried a cross with this female, maybe i will make an interesting orange skunk.

 

grtz

silva

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Are you sure the pure is sensitive, she's very lime green from top to bottom, leaves tips just a little bit burn maybe she want more oligo element and can't take all well like strawberries tomatoes for example ;), all your plants (both Pure and AO) look lightly fed but with a little tips burn... but you know what you do... Have you tried to flush a bit ?

Sure Agent orange Skunk sound delicious for me... :yummy:

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thank you for the tips Rollit, i appreciate. So you found many phenos? she is not very homogeneous so?

 

I had two nice Agent Orange males, I tried a cross with this female, maybe i will make an interesting orange skunk.

 

grtz

silva

 

different pistil colors, pink-orange-red-brown, that's all. no real difference for taste/yield/aspect, no problem for me

you can try this cross, you won't waste your time. i think The Pure is a good stable base for crosses. ;)

 

Are you sure the pure is sensitive, she's very lime green from top to bottom, leaves tips just a little bit burn maybe she want more oligo element and can't take all well like strawberries tomatoes for example ;), all your plants (both Pure and AO) look lightly fed but with a little tips burn... but you know what you do... Have you tried to flush a bit ?

Sure Agent orange Skunk sound delicious to me... :yummy:

 

i was growing The Pure with coco and Ecolizer nutes. if i'm not wrong i was feeding them fatter than the average plants.

they can produce big buds in few time and need to have enough materials to build them :icecream:

but with organics... yes, perhaps not enough magnesium, etc... a produce like Metrop Calgreen can help you. it's vegetal extract with magnesium and azote, and elements. but hydro product and i don't know what the effect on the soil's life, specially the azote. but it's combined with magnesium and is very pure, so maybe not too bad. very efficient, it helps me in case of emergency, with my Hawaiian grow in 2Ltrs pots for example (take a look at the lasts "bud porn"). i decrease or stop the usual organic fertilizer and put 1 or 2ml/5L.

this happens to me because i've used rain water since weeks.

i use it for the mothers too, when they're too "tired" and i need cuts in the next days.

if you can, try Biogreen Calgel. (we don't have it anymore in France, like many things :( )

sometime it's hard to have the good balance...

 

bye!

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Yeah also I'll add that many skunk cross grow well in hydro so it can take a lot of organics i think coupled with a few minerals (or seaweed) should do the flowering... They don't appear really overfed for me.

In any way they look awesome ! :tu

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I'm using the same soil and nutrients since 4 years, canna pro + and AN organic range, F1 H2 Iguana , rain water + a bit of sensical (0,5ml/l).

 

Usually, for such a relatively "big" plant i'm using at least a 11l pot. For her I used a 9 L, with 2 sannie's tabs.

 

She started very well and at around 2 weeks of bloom, the leafs started to make rust points and she become lime green. I water her every day, she is drinking about 1 l/day, so maybe the tabs are dissolved very fast. I have my ferts since one year and they are organic, maybe they are too old. I thought she was an heavy feeder so for the start of 12/12 i went with the 2 tabs and 0,5ml F1 and H2 + 1ml bloom.

 

When issues appears, i stopped the liquid ferts. Afeter 10 days she recovered and leafs become darker. Last week I watered with 0,5 F1/H2 and 1ml of bloom and the issue is coming again.

 

The AOs seems to be lime green but they are not, they have dark green leaves. They didn't have any tabs. I'm very carefull with them now, I prefer less ferts than too much, I will wait to see them asking for food.

 

I wil try to add sensical to the pure, but there is mg in the tabs i think.

 

Anyway, issues with organic ferts are hard to manage, harder than with mineral ferts.

 

Greetz

Silva

Edited by silver surfer
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You know what you do... maybe a little add of iron and maybe cal mag can help, this deficiencies cause others nutrient assimilation issues but if you said after 1 week it has recovered, continue what you did... :showoff:

Good luck mate !

 

just for example: http://grainesweed.c...nces-marijuana/

carence-fer-weed1.jpg

 

I don't know this site just found this pics as well as the link very informative...

Edited by hiwatt
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A lock up also can make deficiency if you have found that flushing helps, they are beautiful but Fe issue stop the bud formation then if this can hilight you... :unsure:

I have found also the Sour diesel often make this problems at mid-end flowering, genes are close though.

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Hey Silva !

I see this Skunk have double serrated leaves... should looking as some perfect hybrids I like. :yummy:

Wishing you all the best for end, we want really big lime green buds mate.

Also excuse me to have put a French link, just tell me if you want the English. B)

Greetings

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thanks Hiwatt!

 

perfect the link in French, i'm french speaking ;)

 

Yes it could be an Fe deficiency, but she has rust pints on the leaves too. I think it is more probably a PH issue, due to Tabs.

She is at 45 days now, I don't want to buy Fe only for 2 weeks. The think i should do but it's too late, is to remove the tabs and change the pot for a bigger one, but it is too late.

 

Since one year and half i'm using canna pro + + tabs and it worked very well. I don't know what happens this time.

As i said earlier, i have a TP mother, so i will make another grow, more carefully. I would like to try LaVie's supersoil, canna rpo + bat guano + worm castings + blood meal + bones meal if i remember well.

 

thanks a lot bro HW ;)

 

PS:

we want really big lime green buds mate

 

me too! :likken: , i will try to do a better grow with the AO's

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I know what happens it's a HOG ! lol

I have dry-soluble Anti-clorosis ferts for vegetables from the garden store, i can send you some if needed/wanted... :lol:

but i believe having paid less than 10€ for a 420g (very cheap), they advise to put 5 to 10g/10L depending if put this on leaves (or young plants) and roots (or older). It has all the oligo-e: Bo, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mo and Zn coupled with seaweed. His name is Ferticament anti-clorosis but many garden center brand have equivalent.

http://www.ferticame...x.php?id=27&L=1 (English) http://www.ferticame...x.php?id=27&L=0 (French)

I think if you had check pH you would have seen pH has increase for having chlorosis, or Ca too much to have this... completely different with adding again more so. Now we have the solution. :D

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this morning i was at a store, and I hesitated to buy some anti chlorosis fert (i didn't finally)

 

It could be too much Ca? :huh: , i watered her 2 hours ago with sensical (0,7 ml/l :unsure: ) F1, H2 and 2ml iguana bloom + B52 1ml

if she had too much Ca for sure she wont like this last soup!

May be she had too much Ca because of the buffer tablets.

 

I feel like a newbie, usually all is great, they are very healthy, when i'm using tabs i don't use the sensical. This palnt was big for a 9L pot, she got 1,5 tabs (this is 1 for 5L i think) so i don't know what happens. The tabs don't looks all the same, some are homogeneous and grey, some are not very homogeneous in the aspect.

 

Flush the canna pro + will be difficult, i don't want to overwater her

 

thanks for the help bro, highly appreciate!

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It is weird that watering with rain water bring higher pH, maybe you don't lower pH ? Iron assimilation is lower with pH increasing so at 7,5-8 some plants can't take their need. On the first link you have a graph of nutrients uptake function of pH. Here is one other.

 

ph_nutrient_chart.jpg

This one is for water so hydro charts the soil work itself his pH but helping a bit with water bring results faster...

So you can see at a pH of 7,5-8 (standard water) Fe decrease drastically, at 8,5 it's minimum... for some plants no problems but Sour D, some Haze and skunks (perhaps caused by hydro growth usually) can't take the Fe they need it's an usual deficiency as N, P, K, Mg, S, Mn etc.

Hope this helps.

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are you sure that the rain water will lower the PH? IMAO Rain water has a very low EC and alcalinity, so it shouldn't change the PH himself.

 

before using rain water i used RO water, and i didn't changed anything to my way of growing when i switched from RO to RW.

 

Usually i have no issues whith RW+ tabs+ my organic ferts. Last grow was 600HPS and for ex I harvested 95g of primo buds on 1 plant with 2,5weeks of veg, moonshine haze RD. But yes, the 4-5 last weeks (/14 weeks), the plants were a bit lime green, but nothing disturbing, and they had no rust points on the leaves and no tips burned.

 

Yes i know this graph.

 

I'm growing with organic ferts, this way i don't have to use a PH meter (i have one, I grew with coco coir in the past, with canna coco A+B).

But yes, maybe i should try to lower a bit the PH and see what happens, may be i will do it for the next watering. But i didn't use my PH meter since about 4 years, and I don't have the products to calibrate it.

I have still a bottle of PH down. How many drops of it should I use in your opinion?

 

thanks for the help bro :specool

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What is the pH down (bloom) brand please ? or the % of phosphoric acids ?

i have used Ionic, Canna & Bio Nova, still have a Ionic bottle (the most powerfull) now but i dilute in water before putting mycorhizae or bacto. I use 1ml/10l of ionic 81% for a pH from 7,5 to 6, so 4 drops/liter (Canna more it's 59%).

At start I like using also organic apple vinegar. I always change the pH indoor but use still a few minerals.

 

I'm almost sure that by decreasing the pH this plant will go again better, just try on this one, normally RO is around 7,5 if your pH meter is again good. Or try with distilated water pH7 to settle this meter. You never check the RW ? it's around 7 ?

About rust tips you said in precedent post it could be K and Mg with the Fe we speak, maybe try already to fixed the Fe issue, the others will go certainly with, each nutrient play with each other, so try with the most visible I think.

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Nice work, fun thread. I love LED technology, I am an electrical engineer. I am watching the techology versus price for the first time to buy into it.

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I'm almost sure that by decreasing the pH this plant will go again better, just try on this one.

 

yes I agree, it makes sense. I will do that, and water with 50%tap water /50% rain water adjusted at PH 6 with phosphoric acid (House and Garden). I have the products to calibrate my Hanna combo, i will do it.

 

To check the PH of RO water doesn't mean anything. It has a very little or no ions in it, so it won't affect the PH of soil by himself, only the ferts will do it. It is the same story with RW, when she is clean.

 

This is why i will mix it with tap water to go to 1,5-0,2EC. If i use only one drop of PH down/l in pure RW or ROW, the PH will decrease very very fast.

 

The reason why i usually don't adjust the PH, is that if I start to do it, I have to do it for all the grow duration, and with organic ferts there is no need to do it (in principle). If the pot is big enough, soil will do the buffer.

 

 

Nice work, fun thread. I love LED technology, I am an electrical engineer. I am watching the techology versus price for the first time to buy into it.

 

Hey Randude,

 

Thanks mate, you are welcome. This technology is not cheap, but very interesting to use for small grows, and the DIY is fascinating.

It very interesting to use for veg too, for vegging the power consumption can be only 120W/m2 or lower VS 440W/m2 with MH.

 

Do you want to buy a plug and play led pannel or will you go to DIY?

 

grtz

Silva

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I calibrated my combo Hanna, measured the EC and PH of my rain water and tap water, i didn't used it for 4 years, and the battery was still OK.

 

tap water: EC 0,65 :blink: , PH 7,2

 

rain water: EC 0,033 , PH 8, but PH 8 doesn't mean anything, the EC is so low

 

so i mixed some "perfect water" for the Pure (TSP, the sick pure, she is really sick ), 1/3 TW + 2/3 RW= EC 0,2 an i added PH- to go to PH 6, i will water the pure with PH6 from now, it is a bit late, damages are serious, but it should better the nutrients uptake and she will probably finish better.

 

It remembers me a grow under leds, here in this micro grow section, a scrog with cannalope and C+, a friend gave me 4 clone in 3 liter pots, and he added some clay peebles at the bottom. So I had exactly the same issue, the PH raised and the plants had chlorosis and burned.

 

The strange thing here is that the issues is coming from the tabs IMAO. The AOs had bigger pots and no tabs and they are fine.

 

Here pics of the sick skunk (i'm really sad for her)

gallery_3562_3666_147193.jpg

gallery_3562_3666_13142.jpg

 

fortunately doctor Hiwatt came and he shook me :D . I'm a bit lazy, and I didn't think to correct the PH. The positive thing is that now I'm thinking about doing the next grow in coco coir, so to go back to mineral ferts, it will change a bit, and it will be fun.

 

Here the 2 Agent Oranges, they had exactly the same way to fertilize than the Pure, and they look nice (those sisters are strechers :o )

AO1

gallery_3562_3666_293487.jpg

gallery_3562_3666_269092.jpg

 

AO2

gallery_3562_3666_225664.jpggallery_3562_3666_59515.jpg

 

12 fingers leaf! :whistle:

 

I feel like a newbie with the TP issues :wacko:

 

grtz

silva

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finally i didn't find any antichlorosis at the store near my house, but i found one micro-oligo ferts supplément with 2% iron and Mo, Mn ad Zn, so I water the TP with 5g of this fert in PH adjusted water at 6,2.

 

It should fix the Fe issue.

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yes I agree, it makes sense. I will do that, and water with 50%tap water /50% rain water adjusted at PH 6 with phosphoric acid (House and Garden). I have the products to calibrate my Hanna combo, i will do it.

 

To check the PH of RO water doesn't mean anything. It has a very little or no ions in it, so it won't affect the PH of soil by himself, only the ferts will do it. It is the same story with RW, when she is clean.

 

This is why i will mix it with tap water to go to 1,5-0,2EC. If i use only one drop of PH down/l in pure RW or ROW, the PH will decrease very very fast.

 

The reason why i usually don't adjust the PH, is that if I start to do it, I have to do it for all the grow duration, and with organic ferts there is no need to do it (in principle). If the pot is big enough, soil will do the buffer.

 

 

 

 

Hey Randude,

 

Thanks mate, you are welcome. This technology is not cheap, but very interesting to use for small grows, and the DIY is fascinating.

It very interesting to use for veg too, for vegging the power consumption can be only 120W/m2 or lower VS 440W/m2 with MH.

 

Do you want to buy a plug and play led pannel or will you go to DIY?

 

grtz

Silva

 

 

I am interested and watching the technology, but not ready to jump in at this moment.

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I'm not sure that is the tabs making the problems, maybe different plants needs, if I was you before to correct several things i will do the pH, cause now I see many issues in your Pure leaves... not two days ago or just the beginning of... after you won't know what care keeping. Do one thing after one. B)

 

Why not a pH of 8 for RW ? Just cause it has a low EC... pH is fact of temp not Ec i guess. :wacko:

That's why your plant don't take all the Iron they want. that's all ! (watering pH 8 and more with humics and seacal !)

Nice leave ! hope. :)

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I'm not sure that is the tabs making the problems, maybe different plants needs

 

yes, maybe, but since one year I grew many plants, 15 different strains maybe, and i had no such an issue. It was same soil, tabs, ferts and RW (but they all had bigger pots)

 

Do one thing after one. B)

I agree, i'm too impatient. I feel (but not sure) that if I correct the water PH it will take some time to change the PH of the substrate. Yes i should only correct the PH and see. Now it's too late, she had a dose of iron yesterday.

 

Why not a pH of 8 for RW ? Just cause it has a low EC... pH is fact of temp not Ec i guess. :wacko:

Low EC water has no or very little ions, so the PH is not very important (IMAO, maybe i'm wrong).

Anyway, now I correct the PH to 6,3 for the AOs and 6 for the TP.

 

That's why your plant don't take all the Iron they want. that's all !

I hope so, but now the pure will have a lot of iron in the substrate, I hope she won't have too much. She is at 47 days of 12/12 now.

 

(watering pH 8 and more with humics and seacal !)

I talked with AN people 3-4 years ago about the ferts i'm using (Iguana, F1/H2, piranha/tarantula/voodoo juice), and they said that it is better to use always the same amount of F1 (fulvic) and H2 (humic) to stabilize the PH. And they said too that there is no need to correct the PH with this ferts.

I always had good results with this method, i don't believe that this issue it is related to specific The Pure needs, there is probably something more.

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