Jump to content
  •           ai.php.gif

ledfoot

A Cree CXB3590 COB LED Bar

Recommended Posts

gallery_6205_3270_65507.jpg

 

Parts List:

OA938AP-11-3TB:

Orion Fans

AC Fans Fan AC 92x38mm 115V Ball Terminals [26 CFM]

 

F-7800-A

Bud Industries

Racks & Rack Cabinet Accessories .87" Plastic Foot

 

CXB3590-0000-000R0HCB30G:

Cree, Inc.

High Power LEDs - White, 3000 K

 

HLG-185H-C1050A:

Mean Well:

LED Power Supplies 199.5W 1050mA95-190V CC IP65 int. pot

 

08174:

Qualtek

Fan Accessories WIRE GUARD 92MM

 

4733

Schurter

AC Power Entry Modules APPLIANCE INLET FOR CABLE 10A

 

C45-12

Orion Fans

Fan Accessories Fan Cord 45 Degree 12" Blunt Cut

 

Tripp Lite Model P006-006-2 6 ft. AC Power Splitter Cable NEMA 5-15P 2x IEC-320-C13

 

8329TCS-6ML

MG Chemicals

Thermal Interface Products THERM CONDV EPOXY SC 6ml(.20oz) SYRINGES

 

Heatsinkusa.com

3.945" Wide Extruded Aluminum Heatsink

(Choose Length (Inches): 16")

SKU L016

 

1 Mil Kapton Tape (Polyimide), 3/4" x 36 yds

 

SUPPLIES I Bought:

 

3055 SL005

Alpha Wire

Hook-up Wire 18AWG 16/30 PVC 100ft SPOOL SLATE

 

Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station

 

ETB Weller Scrwdrvr Tip .093"x.020"x.625" (good choice?)

 

MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 ml Syringe

 

(I already have solder)

 

EDIT: no soldering or epoxy required if you buy these: IDEAL 50-2303CR LED HOLDER, CREE CXA35 COB ARRAY

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The CXB3590 is new and only Ideal makes a holder for it. Newark carries them but are out of stock. I might use Arctic Silver epoxy. The Kapton tape will be used to secure the hookup wires to the bottom of the heatsink.

 

The luminaire will put out about 150W, dimmable to half that with an internal potentiometer. Each bar should illuminate (flower) a 2x3ft alcove.

 

Cost will be about $380 per bar--I bought enough stuff to make two. The CXB3590 sells at a premium right now, $88 @ mouser.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why would you use white led's?

 

as I understoned it the whole Idea behind led's is to give the plants only the wavelengths of light they need, a significant part of the light the white led's produce would be wasted, all the green part of the spectrum for instance.

 

Stay Safe

 

BalzOut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was the classic thinking about the usable spectrum for plants but check out the McCree curve. The red & blue preference curve was based on blue-green algae as I recall. The cool kids are using 3000K COBs now.

 

From eyehortilux:

gallery_6205_3270_23120.jpg

gallery_6205_3270_202090.jpg

 

The holders arrived early at newark.com so I just ordered some of these--no soldering on the COB is required.

IDEAL 50-2303CR LED HOLDER, CREE CXA35 COB ARRAY They do require drilling and tapping an M3 thread or equivalent.

 

The estimated weight of the luminaire is 9.5 pounds.

 

I'm getting bin BD which is 11,100 Flux (lm) @ 25C degrees; 10,000 Flux @ 85. Those are excellent numbers. The CRI is 80.

Some people supplement 3000K COB with far red. My Lumigrows have 660nm red so I could use those as supplemental bud boosters.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish I was smart enough to understand but wholly support and look forward to your findings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interested in this, thanks for sharing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm a bit curious about the light intensity ratings, CRI, Flux, and lumens are all based on how the human eye processes light, it seems to me that a light based around growing should list a PAR rating, after all, plants don't have eyes :)

 

I like the idea of supplemental light, I've used CFl's with conventional red/blue led's to good effect.

 

That's a pretty killer deal on Cree led's, I've priced them out a couple times and found them well out of my price range.

 

Stay safe

 

BalzOut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cree doesn't pitch these towards horticulture; the general market for high power LED illumination is huge.

 

Here is the current mouser inventory of Cree COBs I looked at (the 115 deg is viewing angle):

 

gallery_6205_3270_215410.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect using white COB is a little like using HPS--pumping out mass photons and enough of them happen to be in the appropriate range of the spectrum for plants. A white LED is made by coating a blue LED with yellow phosphor, as I understand it. Looking at the 2700K curve of a related COB family, the right side of the chart is beefed up but the peak remains at the same nm as a 3000K COB. The bad part was, the blue spike was killed. I considered building a three COB bar: 3000K--2700K--3000K or 2700--3000--2700.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

woohoow they are quite pricey,

but if you can make your own fucking light fixtures with it why the hell not!!!!!

 

LED FOR THE WIN

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was inspired to design this light by a thread at THCfarmer asking for the best LED light of 2015. The only consensus was DIY and the OP had some electrical and electronic experience but he didn't want something that looked like a kludge. I'd heard that DIY LED had become much easier so I started studying parts about a week ago.

 

[i should add this disclaimer: I am not an electrician nor an engineer and this is my first LED luminaire design.]

 

Like Balza, I'm concerned about the lack of red from the 3000K COB so here is an alternate design using LED Engin Deep Red (660nm) LZ4-40R208-0000: (or use LZ4-40R308-0000 for Far Red (740nm)) (Or mix, using matched pairs in parallel.)

gallery_6205_3270_205460.jpg

 

This would consume about another 40W of power from the wall and add $160 to the cost.

 

I'm going to make both bars using the simpler layout because I have a pair of California Lightworks Solarflare 100 (80W) bloom boosters to supplement if needed.

Edited by ledfoot
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3,000 K, is red if that is the Kelvin.Color%20Temp%20Chart.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah i think it becomes pricey making your own specially with no warranty right off the start curious on what is the final cost going to be ??? and what kind of power

i have read up on LED for some time still on the edge of either purchasing a couple for supplemental, lighting and prices have sure come down in last couple years and some day i will get into it hell why not right ...

But to my understanding and from what i read 3 watt diodes are the best in performance and the life ,

problem i see With COB ( Chip on board is going to be heat issues with out a doubt which will of course effects its performance and longevity

Have you looked at the UV rating for this COB ??? and what might it be ???? looks like its UVA starting at 360 nm

IMO one should look for one that starts in the 300 nm so your getting UVB as well as UVA in the spectrum curve ,, For trich production ...

red green and blue diodes = white light to my understanding but anyways

get er going looking forward to updated pictures hope it all goes well ,,, As for led's i really like the mars led there cheap coem with a warranty and appears Sara will go out of her way to help you

but Full spectrum LED is where its at ,,

I know you get the made in china crap hahaha but sad thing is really most colors are only made in Taiwan, china or Indonesia but 1600 watt mars for 599 bucks full spectrum that is a wicked price

http://www.topledgrowlight.com/led-grow-light/led-grow-light/mars-ii-1600w-led-grow-light.html#.VTayISFViko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3,000 K, is red if that is the Kelvin.Color%20Temp%20Chart.jpg

People see colors differently. That 3000K band looks bright yellow to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not after trichs but I haven't felt the need for supplemental UV when using the Lumigrow (460nm blue, I think).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is looking like a kludge but here is a 2700K COB and 660nm circuit driven by a dimmable 1400mA ballast (the two 3000K COBs are on a 1050mA).

gallery_6205_3270_177264.jpg

 

gallery_6205_3270_136160.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like this serial circuit better, using the 700mA model Mean Well. It allows the red stars to run at full rated power without maxxing out the 2700K COB.

gallery_6205_3270_65311.jpg

 

The constant current region of HLG-185H-C700 is 143V to 286V. Each star is 10Vf and the 2700K COB is about 72Vf at 700mA so that's a total voltage drop of 152V. [Edit: the published spec for the stars @ 700mA is 10.5V]

Edited by ledfoot
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gallery_6205_3270_94754.jpg

 

gallery_6205_3270_16757.jpg

 

The total Vf of the components in the 2700K + 660nm series circuit when the potentiometer is turned all the way down (current = 350mA) is just below the published spec for the power supply but I expect things will behave. (8 x 9.2V) + 67v = 140.6V

 

gallery_6205_3270_125209.jpg

 

gallery_6205_3270_147053.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well where is the finished product have you built one yet ???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, I haven't even set up my work space really. I sprained my back repairing the old overhead lighting.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old thread...I don't care. The information I leaving behind is about the subject...

 

If you are willing to order your parts from Alibaba...:

 

http://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/

 

If you don't mind having your parts shipped from Australia...

 

Cutter Electronics: http://www.cutter.com.au/ For a discount use the code "cutandroll" at the checkout.

 

For heatsinks: www.heatsinkusa.com

 

For more information on building your own LED array: competitor forum website

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I finally put together a luminaire. The COB was purchased from cutter.com.au, the heatsink from cdiweb.com and the driver from onlinecomponents.com. I bought a ten-pack of each. 3000K, 90CRI, BD luminous flux bin.

 

This thing is pulling 50W from the wall (but I haven't measured it yet) and runs very cool, 10C degrees warmer than ambient. I installed a thermocouple but I'm not confident about the reading, it seems too low. Thermal epoxy was used. Arctic Silver 5 was used on the heatsink interface.

 

gallery_6205_5419_11381.jpg

 

gallery_6205_5419_70385.jpg

 

gallery_6205_5419_7144.jpg

 

gallery_6205_5419_48712.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×