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Bleach to kill broad mites?

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Been told only mitcides will kill these mofo's. Is this true? Looking to take cuts from moms and soak in 10% bleach for 10-15 mins before rooting. Then kill the rest off. Will this work? Any info would be great.

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Cheers bro, great info in that thread got some great ideas from it. Only problem I've got as being in UK we're not able to readily get them chems that the peeps in the states are. So looking for alternative options.

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I personally wouldn't do the bleach thing at all on the plants themselves. 10% bleach may be overly strong.

 

Last time I had spider mites was between '02 and '05 don't remember as I lost some notebooks from about a 5yr period in there. I spent at least 2 months fighting them with sprays as my flowering plants were dying... I'd come home from my work day and there'd be webs on the colas and the leaf spots were everywhere. I would kill the adult mites but the eggs just kept hatching and all the reading up I did said that after the adults are dead the eggs only hatch for 2 weeks. I ended up cutting everything down but a couple mothers that were in an offsite location. A month or so after the plants were cut and everything was sterilized I threw a few rooted cuttings in the "mite room" and all was good. Not much help here. That was before the days when you could buy predator mites online (in my area anyway).

 

Mites suck! Old adage that an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure applies. Check the plants regularly, look under the leaves, look for eggs and on top of course webs and leaf damage from the sucking. There's probably at least a few on OG that have succesfully irradicated an infestation of broad mites. I'd like to hear their irl solution. I've hammered down thrips and whiteflies a few time in the past when I had greenhouses and a few different negatively impacting species of insects from the grape vines, but mites are bastards.

 

When I use bleach to sterilize containers and etc. I only use 1/4 cup per gallon of very hot water. Soak for 5 or ten minutes, then scrub. Followed by a thorough rinse with cold water.

hopefully you get pointed in the right direction- good luck

 

-Passion

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http://flyingskull.n...hp?prod=Nuke-em

 

OMRI and is recognized by WSU.

 

Clearly geared towards cannabis growers.

 

Bleach is what I'd like to call "half-assery". Just because it's deadly doesn't mean it selects what it kills. Bugs, plants, good bacteria….

 

10% bleach is awesome after you're plants are on the of the room and you're ready to clean.

 

I'd suggest cutting out cannabis forums completely for your personal enlightenment.

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I wouldn't mess with bleach around the plants. They do have some natural things made out of essential oils, but I have not used it to know if it is good. One out called Guardian, has a great rep, but haven't personally tried it.

 

Guardian ingredients. Cinnamon oil, Lemongrass oil, citric acid, Yeast extract, sunflower lecithin all at 2%, the rest is water :)

 

Make that up, spray all parts of your plant, including under the leaves, cover it till it drips, including stalk. Repeat in 7 to 10 days.

 

Maybe that will work. If you try it, please let us know if it does work.

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Wettable Sulphur. Foliar.

 

All plants, don't miss a mm of plant.

 

If it is just one plant, isolate or toss the the infected plant (with fire)

 

The only good characteristics of russet mites is they dont spread to other plants until the host plant is dead.

 

The bad is that they have one of the highest chemical resistance of any mite.

 

Wettable Sulphur is about the only thing that may... kill them.

 

Bit like chemo as a last resort, you either win or you lose, if you do nothing, you only lose.

 

Sulphur is also safe for your plant ;)

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The only thing I can add is that you may be better off starting fresh....

 

clean out the grow space and wait until the incubation period for the larvae has passed and then crack some fresh seeds. I know it sucks, but so do mites.

 

then just stay vigilant with the preventative measures

 

Good luck

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The biggest thing with all pest control is learning the stages of the pests life. Different treatments work for different stages and if you can get in-tune with the pest…you can own the fuck out of it.

 

First step in being successful at that is getting a proper scope or magnifying glass. You cannot see broad mites with your naked eye well enough to diagnose, just the damage unless you have super human eyesight. The damage is pretty tell-tale. They murder the plant from the centre-out, top first working down. When they fully murder that plant they will as a group move to the next and eventually stumble on the rest.

 

Typical broad mite infestations do not spread fast, they tend to stay in a tight group and most of the time if you catch them early enough, getting right on one plant in a fire out in the back yard saves you a ton of bullshit.

 

Indoor grows, I'd say 90% of the time the grower brings the pests in on themselves. 10% the bug finds its way into your room through a crack, through ventilation and through osmosis. Okay..maybe not osmosis.

 

Get preventative, get smart, bugs are pretty stupid, don't let a stupid bug living in your controlled environment outsmart you :)

 

 

Save the pyrethrum and spinosad for real spider mites and thrips, it scientifically does not do shit to broad mites.

 

If you're an organiac google search "green house broad mite treatment". I forget the specific name of the predator but there is 1 go-to that the pro's use that also does very well agains thrips.

 

RM

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I like predatory bugs before chemicals and the like. I have not seen on broad mites but am sure their are predator bugs that love em.

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Abermectin and ivermectin kills em, so use products like, Plant vitality. Dr Schimmel or Harkers mectin to wipe out broad mites.

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Lots of bad advise based on speculation here and little experience in this SPECIFIC pest.

 

Unless you yourself have had and successfully eliminated broads or cyclamen mites you should not post an answer to this question.

 

 

I've had broad mites. I've eliminated broads as well. Here is my experience.

 

I've soaked cuts in bleach. I've soaked whole plants in bleach.

 

Soaking cuts in 10% bleach will not kill them as nymphs live IN the plants which is why MOST organic methods are in effective . So fuck the worthless tobacco, garlic sprays and treatments . Mighty Wash is worthless. Neem is worthless.

 

Cuts CAN be soaked in bleach BUT as Bucky says , they better be 100% healthy or they will suffer and lose chlorophyll.

Soaking cuts in Physan 20 will accelerate rooting by eliminating pathogens but will not kill broads.

 

I went the Nuclear route with Avid, Akari and Forbid followed with SM90 and others.

Each solution needs a specific ph and must be mixed accordingly . Mighty Wash is about as effective as homeopathy. It's basically low ph water with some oil. Lower ph really knocks bugs back.

 

This is a product I have read knowledgable professional growers using to eliminate broads which is non toxic:

https://m.facebook.com/pages/Guardian-Mite-Spray/102405263428074. I have only used it as a preventative as I have no active infestations.

 

 

 

Unless you have a rare collection of elite clones , I would toss plants and start again.

 

Throw everything away ... Pots , floor liners, soil, mediums everything . Spray all surfaces every three days with a 10% bleach solution forever.

 

Trim all moms back to look like asparagus and begin whatever treatment you decide on . Do not use a spray bottle , buy an atomizer.

Treat every three days rotating products if you use chemicals or just stick with Guardian.

 

The only people I know who can't rid themselves are lazy and have cluttered dirty spaces. They refuse to clean , reduce clutter , be methodical or throw things away.

 

 

I lost Chemd, Cherry Pie and a fine OG to them before I understood what was going on.

 

If your plants are something you grew from a pack of seeds you can still buy, cull them and buy more seeds . If you grew 100 to find that one , then fight to save them.

 

Take notes, watch what happens and trust your experience vs posts from people who have no experience eliminating Broad or Cyclamen mites.

 

Trust me, they were easy compared to Stem Nematodes.

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So essentially you believe in "burn the bodies, clean up the mess" as well Joker?

 

I have had experience dealing with broadmites more than once over the years, generally introducing new elite clones into the quarantine area prior to veg rooms.

 

The "burn and replace" is always option #1... but if something must be tried, I still back wettable sulphur 100% until I find better.

 

As a fine foliar spray combined with a wetting agent, it will kill the leaf beneficial bacteria that feeds the broad mite much alike bleach allowing a chance for the plant to fight back against infection... or die.

 

We win some, we lose some :)

 

 

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I forgot to write that I do sulfur burns between runs but if you spray oils sulfur will damage your leaves.

 

I am only using neem , soap and liquid copper on moms. Vegging plants get neem and soap as a preventative. I will rotate Guardian or Spinosad or Horticultural oil as preventatives.

 

I'm post infection and am focusing on plant health with chitins in the soil ( crab meal , defensor chitin creating bacteria) watering with uncoated aspirin , foliar sprays etc. ACT's. There are things that activate a plants immune system. The healthier your plants , the stronger it's immune system .

 

Part of the discussion , particularly segueing into duds , is that newer hybrids don't have the immune systems of older strains closer to land race.

 

That Guardian defense spray can be used in flower and is non toxic. I have no personal experience using it against broads.

 

I treat all " cooking" soil with crab meal and Caps OG Biowar.

 

Haven't used chemicals in a year and am on my 4th generation of cloning all moms.

 

I put my worst moms outdoors and they bounced back. Something about the earth and sun. Took new cuts and started again.

I fought nematodes this way.

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I have not seen firm effacacy studies but I believe a high brix will help you deter pests. I concur, determine if the plant is worth the fight before taking it on as it might not be worth the effort.

 

I have no direct experience with this type of pest but I would pursue the concept of predator bugs and using proven preventative measures.

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On another thread here about mites, I listed a product (spores basically) that mix with water and cause a fungus to grow and kill off the mites, that is ANY mites. It is not harmful to humans or the plants, but is deadly to insects of all sorts. It is not cheap, but a 5 lb bag will last you like 2 plus years if refrigerated. You spray it on, make sure the humidity in the room stays high for 8 hours and your mite problem will be gone shortly. It is safe to spray anytime. It is the newest, and most effective product available while being safe in all regards. Forget everything else that may or may not work.....this is the final answer for everyone if you can afford it!

 

Look for the thread, I can't remember the name off hand.

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Gotta say, never….ever heard of anyone using a sulphur burn in a cannabis grow for anything other than a powder mildew battle.

 

How exactly do it work against broad mites?

 

RM

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Sorry Reverend, I must have mixed you up with the terminology ;)

 

'Sulphur burning' is only used to kill PM as far as I know (but wouldn't recommend in the last 3 weeks, will make your bud smell like somebody 'cupcake' farted into your curing jar :P )

 

Wettable Sulphur is a chelated powder which is diluted for foliar application.

 

The 'burn' part is literal. Take the infected cutting/plant and incinerate with fire (Like Ripley and the flamethrower in Aliens)

 

If chemicals wont kill the mites, hopefully lots of fire will.

 

If the fire doesnt kill them... run! (Or open the airlock) :P

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...will make your bud smell like somebody 'cupcake' farted into your curing jar ///laughing my ass off freaking tears on the screen. Different cultures, sometimes languages etc. make jokes not strike people the same. Net width and my mistake from us to metrics lol. :) But good job putting it into an understandable way. death by fire for the mite infested plant (spidery looking stage of the aliens life cycle looks a bit miteish)

 

ah yes- a quick hot fire such as you get using a Zippo while blasting...Death to mites (as an inane barely audable chant)-- love Herijuana X Jackberry I do.

 

-pASSion

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Passion, bet that is good weed.

we are smoking some what alike .

I am smoking a syco x heri bud. :wave:

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Sorry Reverend, I must have mixed you up with the terminology ;)

 

'Sulphur burning' is only used to kill PM as far as I know (but wouldn't recommend in the last 3 weeks, will make your bud smell like somebody 'cupcake' farted into your curing jar :P )

 

Wettable Sulphur is a chelated powder which is diluted for foliar application.

 

The 'burn' part is literal. Take the infected cutting/plant and incinerate with fire (Like Ripley and the flamethrower in Aliens)

 

If chemicals wont kill the mites, hopefully lots of fire will.

 

If the fire doesnt kill them... run! (Or open the airlock) :P

 

I failed to read the "wettable" part ;) But yeah taking the affected plant(s) outside and setting them on fire is a 100% solution.

 

Then set the grow room, home and everything else surrounding the affected plant(s) on fire.

 

Fire…it solves shit.

 

Peace

RM

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I tried the fungus using Caps. Bacillus subcillis or something. Didn't do shit as nymphs are inside the plant. Works great on root aphids and fungus gnats but won't eradicate broads.

 

 

Broad mites make regular mites seem easy to get rid of. You need something that the plant can absorb to kill larvae and nymphs in the plant. You need an ovicide to kill eggs and you need something to kill adults. Avid , Akari, Forbid or Guardian are the only things I've used or seen used with success.

 

Rev: you ever use predatory mites to get rid of broads? I never tried because all posts regarding said they were ineffective on broads and are incapable of ridding a room of any mite , only keeping them in check.They die really easily and don't help on the phases of the mite life cycle in the plants.

 

How did you get rid of your broad mites?

 

When I got two spotted mites it was easy to get rid of them because of the precautions.

 

I use sulfur because plants that get bitten are prone to fungal infection. The double whammy of pests that suck and penetrate plants is that they create openings for pathogens to get in as they also weaken the immune system . A sulfur burn between runs gives your recovering plants an easy start.

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Hi Joker......you used the wrong thing. The fungus's proper name is "Isaria fumosorosea" and it's very effective if applied weekly. Use the correct stuff I listed above in the link, and I promise you, your issues will be over. It sounds like you used BT or something similar and it's not effective (although some report it is).

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