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Bleach to kill broad mites?

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Hey Joker, I honestly have not had broad mites in a personal grow. They are only prevalent in greenhouse grows in Canada, and I fucking hate greenhouses because of that very reason.

 

I have however did a ton of research on broad mites because of their reputation in the cannabis community, I like to learn and apply knowledge if necessary.

 

My trust would lie on Guelph University's research with the A.swarskii predator mite. Not your average predator, they are very robust, long living and eat every stage of the broad mite from egg to adult.

 

Plant inspection and early diagnosis seems key and since they are well documented as being slow moving, getting rid of the first affected plant, which goes with everything in growing plants…seems like the logical gate-way to success.

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as hempyfan already suggested you should use natural predators against mites. there are plenty of predator insects that love to feast on broad mite flesh for breakfast.

 

another eco friendly way to get rid of the majority of mites is to use the vacuum cleaner technique then finish off the survivors with predator bugs as the vacuum cleaner technique will only destroy about 95% of the mites.

keep in mind that the vacuum cleaner will slightly damage the foliage depending on the vacuum strength.

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I used OG Biowar which contains several type of fungus which grow on and consume pests. The photos show little mites covered with white fungus. In addition , it's also the best foliar spray and combined with the root pack , amazing for plant vitality . It has multiple strains of insect consuming fungus. It did not work against broad mites. Best source of beneficials I've used as it covers all bases. According to Cap ,not all ingredients are listed .

 

The other important thing to know about fungus is that it will not kill the eggs . Broad mites have a rapid life cycle, so they lay eggs quickly. Even as the fungus is slowly consuming them, they are laying eggs . In addition , what makes broad and cyclamens unique is that at stages in their life cycle , they live INSIDE THE PLANT unlike spider mites which are only ON the plant. So a topical treatment will not work , has to be transliminar and Neem Cake doesn't cut it.

That's why an ovicide is so important and disrupting the reproductive system ( Akari) is so important. Forbid 4F is some nasty shit, but it kills the eggs . Spray last. I wore a Tyvek suit, chemical gloves goggles , respirator and hood.

 

 

I would like to say that I wished predatory mites worked against broad or cyclamen mites , but they simply do not.

10 seeds of Grape Krush x Cherry Pie to anyone with their own documented experience of predatory mites eradicating BROAD OR CYCLAMEN mites.

 

 

The best broad mite thread is at Cannaculture.com which was a private site for experienced growers only . It's going to be open to the public which sucks as you will now have to sift through 9 pages of misinformation to find one page of information like everywhere else.

 

The thread was written by people with broad mites or who had gotten rid of broads. All excellent growers. No guesswork or beliefs, just failures and successes. We all got nematodes too and almost all of us have rid ourselves of them too.

 

We all used fungus re: Caps OG Biowar foliar combined with roots for a spray and a drench. It helps heal the leaves from all the Chems and gets any stragglers . Part of the reason it took me so long to realize I had them was that the fungus kept their numbers down. I used it weekly before I knew .You can't spray flowering buds without risking mold, so by week 5 , my flowering plants were destroyed. Spraying fungus on clones under a dome is also a nightmare. Your clones are covered in it and die.

 

If you really want to help , then pointing people in the wrong direction based on wishful thinking or belief won't help.

 

 

Broad mites are ao bad many growers just throw everything away and move to a new location. They are that hard to get rid of.

 

For those of you not experience with BROAD mites, consider yourselves lucky . They are unlike any other mite as they live in the plant and are extremely difficult to eradicate . They become resistant super fast because lazy growers have repeatedly used only one pesticide . I've read reports of Avid having no effect on some as it has been misused . Never repeat .

 

Spinosad didn't work. BT didn't work. Neem cake and oil didn't work. Merit 75 didn't work. Bleach didn't work. Fungus didn't work. Pyrethrins didn't work. Floramite didn't work. I tried a lot of stuff. I have an entire shelf of products that didn't work.

 

I finally went nuclear. Done. Gone.

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Well, rather than try to counter some of what you have stated above (which is incorrect), I'll let you read it for yourself regarding the fungus I am recommending.

 

http://www.google.com/patents/US8574566

 

But so you know, this product (Isaria Fumorosea, anotherwords, PFR-97) does and will infect spider mite eggs, along with mite adults. Rather than assume it works or doesn't work like other fungus you mentioned, do some additional research. This site may help you on your journey too:

 

http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Help_with_Russet_Cyclamen_and_Broad_Mites

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1. Those are great links. Fungus is a great way to control most insects. There are only a few strains that work. The google link says nothing about broad or cyclamen, just a general topic on controlling insects with fungus. I've been using OG Biowar for a few years and got rid of two spotted mites, fungus gnats but it didn't help with broads.

 

 

 

 

2. Spider mites are easy to get rid of and are completely different from broads and cyclamen. Absolutely , completely different. It's easy to get rid of spider mites with fungus. Absolutely. BROAD MITES ARE LIKE THE MUTANT SUPER MITES COMPLETELY DIFFERENT FROM REGULAR MITES. Again, you have no idea how lucky you are to not know about broads. The worst way to learn about Broad mites is to get them. Ask anyone who has had them,

 

 

3. My heart skipped a beat when I clicked the second link... could it be... but no. It's a great site with some great products...

 

They talk about control of Broads or Cyclamen but not eradication. I'm not being a dick. If you click the link they have for the broads.... http://www.everwoodf...and_Broad_Mites it has some great advise on identification and the life cycle which is very important. However, the products listed won't eradicate them.

 

Botanigard is an excellent product. Won't kill them. The Jury is out on heat treatments. I didn't try it. A few did, it's very difficult to get your heat all of your gear. Greenhouses will steam clean after they throw away all plants and equipment. Diotemaceous earth won't kill them, but I still mix into all my soil.

 

The products they recommend are in a lot of products and it's great BioWorks Cease: Bacillus subtilis (strain QST 713) but it won't kill the broads. It's in Caps and in a few others. So is this Beauveria bassiana, strain GHA . Also a great product. Won't eradicate broads. I used all the products they recommend specifically for BROAD MITES.

 

 

 

What that site is doing is conning you into buying ALOT of product that they admit will not eradicate Broad mites. My experience with fungus was that it seemed amazing. My plants bounced back. I scoped and scoped and could not find a single broad mite! DE in the soil. As previously stated, I stopped spraying as soon as buds formed, but I kept using the two fungi they mentioned as a drench as they are in CAPS. Come week 5 ... mite explosion.

 

They even admit that:

 

"Russet and Broad mite symptoms usually show up after you are in bloom! Timing is critical here so schedule your Beneficial Insect application immediately after your last foliar application of Beauveria bassiana, and again before bloom, or you will be fighting an uphill battle requiring contact pesticides. We typically use slow release sachets, which contain adults and juveniles that will exit the sachet over a two or three week period. Two or three applications, 3 weeks apart is, usually sufficient for the season. "

 

However... from Chimera

Introducing predators to a flowering (12/12 light cycle) chamber is essentially futile according to leading cannabis researchers... the predators seem to just go to sleep. They are more suited to the longer light cycle in a veg room.

 

What they are telling you is that none of their products will get rid of broads, but by attacking them on all fronts, you can reduce their numbers to a level where you get some kind of harvest.

 

Let me tell you what kind of harvest you will get. Your buds will be about 1/8 to 1/4 the size of normal buds. They will have greatly diminished smell and no taste. That's what you'll get .

 

Again, I'm not being a dick, but you do not realize the tremendous difference between regular two spotted or spider mites and broads.

 

​You can buy three to 4 products and completely get rid of your mites in 12-15 days or you can buy 6-8 products from them and apply them over a period of months and still have broad mites.

 

Guardian Spray is pricey , but it's a single product and it will ERADICATE broads in 9-12 days.

 

 

So what do you want... to eradicate them or spend the next few years fighting them?

 

I'll up the ante. If you can show documented proof that you yourself or anyone else has else has ERADICATED Broad or Cyclamen mites with fungus I'll not only give up 10 Grape Krush x Cherry Pie seeds, I'll add 10 Grape Krush x The White seeds which was released as White Krush.

 

Organic methods whether oils, bacteria, fungus , DE or beneficial insects will knock them back, but will not eradicate.

 

I'm a 100% organic. I use several strains of bacillus subtillis to both boost plants immune system and kill bugs. Shit does not work on broads.

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For a number of years I was a Director of Operations for a chain of garden stores in my state. I sent an email to a fellow employee, the most knowledgeable person I know on the subject- and he's the resident expert on the subject- and here's his response:

 

Heat treatment. Cyclamen and broad mites are heat sensitive and can be killed if immersed in 110 degree F water for 30 minutes. These temperatures are generally low enough to cause little to no damage to most plants but water temperature must be maintained properly and the whole plant, pot and all, needs to be immersed. Removing heavily infested shoots first may make this process easier.

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I further asked him how he accomplishes this and his answer was something along this line:

 

"I take a 50 gallon drum and run a hose from a water heater, set between 110 and 120 degrees and mostly fill the drum. The I carefully lower the potted plant into the drum for the 1/2 hour." He did confide that he has used this on marijuana previously with no ill effects on adult plants and it's quite effective. Sounds like a pain in the ass to me, but there's you answer from an expert in the plant field for many, many years.

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Good discussion!

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I agree Hempy ;)

 

Joker nor sshz are being jerks about anything. Just simply discussing knowledge and experience in detail.

 

Im in Joker's boat a little in the sense of I have tried many techniques and applications of all kinds to eradicate the super villain's known as Broadmites.

 

If somebody told me that it could be done, id be hesitant to beleive there is a path I have not yet traveled in that quest.

 

But there always is a new path that opens sooner or later in science and understanding... id be very interested if heat was the Broad's kryptonite :)

 

But gosh, tbh... I hope I never have the opportunity to test that science again in a good way lol

 

 

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Thanks for all the great info fellas. As joker said can you only give info if you've actually used the tech and its worked for you. As there is so much miss info on the sites from passed on info its all most impossible to find the proper info.

 

Any idea if merit 75 works? Think it's got imid in it?

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I've had to kill my main vegging plants off. There too far infected to try saving. Got some cuts from a pal trying to save though as think they maybe OK. Had them in different area and have been treating with haccers and plant vitality plus ever 3 days.

 

They are not showing any real signs of damage from bm's just a bit battered from the chems as used high dosage to make sure it worked. Should I be using lower concentrations as there only newly rooted cuts?

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this is a great discussion as I am currently battling mites. I have killed everything so far, and now I am going to clean up everything and throw away all soil and pots and just start again. Thanks for sharing your experiences....

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I tried Merit 75 , which by the way kills bees, so please don't use it outside or even dump it. No it does not work. Will kill root aphids.

 

If I were to do it again, I would start with Guardian which is some kind of lavender oil that only works on soft bodied insects.

I still have Avid , Akari, and Forbid all of which were applied only one time each 5 days apart. I got Pylon as well since Avid has been misused so many mites are immune. You need to rotate or you will breed resistant mites.

Floramite does not work on broads.

 

You have to be careful spraying plants as the stomata need to breathe. Give them breaks . I sprayed AACT between pesticides . Once the plants recovered I've learned to treat with liquid copper for bacterial and fungal infection. Plant damage attributed to pests is sometimes the result of a bacterial or fungal infection brought from pests, especially nematodes.

 

Obviously don't spray Chems on something someone will smoke .

 

The heat thing doesn't help your ducting , lights , tools , fans , walls etc. In addition to my plants I sprayed 100% of everything even inside cabinets and drawers . Ceilings , I wiped bulbs down. Cleaned the fan blades .... Every single thing.

 

I caulked all my cabinets, baseboards , any crack I could find. If you don't seal your area , they will just hide , wait out the sprays and come back. Repainted too .

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Use the dosages reccomended but many have ph requirements. I have it somewhere written. Some were 5.6 , some were 6.2. No need to increase dosage . I also left them in the dark for 12-24 hrs after applications because you can fry the leaves .

 

 

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Warning...

 

looks like Guardian Mite Spray was tested and the reason it worked was that it had Avermectin in it which is the main ingredient in Avid.

 

Big news in the Emerald Cup this year was how many submissions failed for pesticide. Looks like they may have been fooled by the makers of Guardian that it was organic. Everyone was questioning how an ORGANIC cup had most submittals rejected after testing.

 

I have recommended this product to a few people and have even tested it myself. I'm a bit pissed because I did not wear safety equipment and I would not have used it at all had I known.

 

Apologies.

 

So now, back to square one. There is no organic spray solution to getting rid of broads. Yes, you can soak your plants in hot water if you can figure out how to do that. I don't think people want to power wash the inside of their grows, lights, etc with scalding water.

 

How do you eradicate your entire grow space without chemicals?

 

http://www.oregonlive.com/marijuana/index.ssf/2016/01/oregon_flags_potential_problem.html

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http://fshs.org/proc...122/253-257.pdf

 

Read ^^

Swirskii Mites (and cucumeris) Natural predators...They work, especially in small grow areas. I have personally seen them eradicate severe broad mite infestations in numerous greenhouse situations, with everything from cannabis to citrus trees to vegetables..

Get them in during veg and you will have a successful harvest, if plants are already flowering its too late.

You can purchase them in slow release packets that hang on the plants, and last 4-6 weeks. Worth every penny if you are dealing with broad mites.

 

Don't use poison, please people

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Bad time to be that company.

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I looked it up and found some really interesting links... we have a winner.

 

http://www.ncbi.nlm....les/PMC2914298/ the best one....

 

Basically, they say by the time you see damage, your fucked.

 

it's conditional, but he's right. If you shut down, just go down to mothers, sterilize, repaint , repeatedly clean everything with bleach. Trim your moms to look like asparagus and then continue with the predators for a few months, it may work.

 

Studies on greenhouses are inconclusive because they can get around on whiteflies etc. But if you stick all your moms in a single cab with predators, while sterilizing the entire environment repeatedly, you may have a chance.

 

This is another good link:

 

http://www.oardc.ohi...10-10_Mites.pdf

 

I soak all pots in bleach after each grow. I spray bleach on tools and floors and walls at least once a week. Mid grow, I also take all plants out, spray walls and floors with 10% bleach and put them back.

Sounds obsessive but I haven't had anything bad in a year. Before that another year.

 

All my pests were from cuts from a single friend who had broads, two spotted mites, nematodes and .... a bacterial infection. Yep. Good times. Last round of cuts, I isolated, treated and got a bacterial infection anyway. That's another subject...

 

 

 

 

 

Management

Broad mites require a food source for survival, so implementing sanitation practices, such as cleaning greenhouses prior to introducing new plants and disinfecting benches will help to alleviate problems with broad mites. Broad mite populations are difficult to suppress with contact miticides because they are located in the meristematic tissues. Miticides with translaminar properties may be more effective and typically have broad mites on the label. Translaminar means that, after a foliar application, the material penetrates leaf tissues and new terminal growth; forming a reservoir of active ingredient within the leaf or new growing points. As a result, these miticides are more likely to come in contact with broad mites feeding in the meristematic tissues. Those miticides labeled for suppression of broad mite populations are presented in Table 1. Preventative applications may be required; particularly on highly susceptible crops because once damage is evident it is too late to initiate practices that may have suppressed populations of broad mites. As such, it is recommended to rouge out and immediately dispose of plants exhibiting symptoms, and those adjacent to symptomatic plants in order to prevent the spread of broad mite populations. file:///page3image20640 file:///page3image20800

 

 

 

Table 1. Miticides (active ingredient and trade name) that have broad mite on the label, and activity (translaminar and/or contact). ______________________________________________________________________________ Common Name (active ingredient) Trade Name Activity ______________________________________________________________________

 

 

Abamectin

Chlorfenapyr

Fenpyroximate

Pyridaben

Spiromesifen ______________________________________________________________________________

 

 

Avid Translaminar and contact Pylon Translaminar and contact Akari Contact

Sanmite Contact

 

 

Judo Translaminar and contact

 

 

 

Biological control of broad mite is another management option and involves the use of commercially-available predatory mites. The predatory mite, Neoseiulus barkeri has been successfully used in suppressing broad mite populations, and the predatory mites, Neoseiulus (=Amblyseius) cucumeris and N. californicus may be utilized against broad mite populations on certain greenhouse-grown crops including vegetables. It is important to apply predatory mites early in the crop production cycle before broad mites become established.

Hot water treatments are another potential management option that has been suggested as a means of dealing with broad mites. In fact, it has been shown that exposure times between 15 and 45 minutes at temperatures between 105oF (40oC) and 110oF (43oC) are effective in killing broad mites. Plants have to be immersed in the hot water long enough to allow penetration into areas such as the meristematic tissues where the mites are located, and at the same time not damage plants. Producers may consider implementing this procedure; however, this is a short-term solution with no residual affect as plants placed back among crops can be infested.

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Lets say for example someone was looking at growing locations.

 

How would they know if the area had that type of pest problem? Is their an easy way to detect an infected area or just hope all is properly sterilized and cleaned before proceeding?

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Hi all!

I just orderered me some swirskii bags and pray they will eradicate the

nasty broadmites i've had for à long time.

Question is can i also use neem oil for foliar with the swirskii or what?

Maximum respect for all great info!

 

 

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Hi guys !

 

Beeing really stressed past years by broad mites with exactly the same problems as you Biggs, you say it's difficult to have access to all the US products or Amazon pesticides (30% taxed for now for sending in EU + shipping fees) so I think the best way to get rid of this little buggers is sulfur spraying rinsed 2 day after with water and vinegar, then 2 days black soap/water then oil water and maybe garlic mixture/water, alternate this and repeat it... Putting Aspirin around 80-100mg/liter in the roots feeding also can help too.

 

I know the natural product The Joker adviced me in the broad mites thread (OG biowar) with Beaveria bassiana can work greatly but it needs also Amazon purchase... so an European product named Naturalis-L is available in Marocco and Netherlands (or Belgium, Italia, but not in France for now I don't know for Norway) :(

 

Also after having fight the broad mites for a while, I see they always come back in Spring or Autumn when temps are great for them (between 10 or 20°C) they same seem staying here with this hot winter we have got again... so the best things I did is making a DIY Sulfur burner with elemental sulfur, fighting many bugs and mildew !!! :)

Now my plants look like never ! lol

Cheers

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@hiwatt. It was after seeing your pics here i understood i was dealing with broads. Looks exactly like my plants. So thanks for that!

Good to hear youre having some success with the sulfur. I,m trying to save some small mothers with a slightly different approach.

1) using flower cab as a sauna having ~50 degrees celsius cooking mothers for a couple of hours at a time. Repeat every 2 days.

2) cleaning everything else with ozone generator and bleach.

3) hopefully i will get some swirskii mites soon to be placed with the mothers.

4) og biowar will be ordered if possible(also in europe) and sprayed weekly.

5) pray roughly.

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Hey Ronald thanks for the kind words !

 

Yeah that shitty broad mites are almost everywhere since we have weird season and Agro regulation retired the strong product like Abamectin biotechnology company have made and sold a lot... I have read that mites are identified on hemp longtime ago, but we see them just when they are in mass, almost too late then, they are very resistant with their cycle of reproduction and eggs can hibernate so much time before coming back !

 

When you know really how they live, what symptoms they bring and what they like and hate the most, I think it's not so difficult to walk with... After many natural or DIY treatments I've found they really hate sulfur, in a clean environment (they love dust coupled with cigarettes smoke if you grow at home) certainly they don't like other things like oil, garlic but plants also suffered when you spray too much products in a short time so the best effective treatment I used to spray now is sulfur then water alternated with black soap then water. Here you have 8 days of treatments if you spray every 2 days, it works great if taken at the beginning of the infestation.

When you get almost rid of them but they come back from time time elemental sulfur is the solution, as well as Beaveria bassiana same if I don't have got the opportunity to try it again now. Trying to order Biogard Naturalis-L from country around me.

Biogard Naturalis-L seems cheaper than OG biowar and used in European union (no Airmail ;)) just need an agreement in my country.

 

IF ANYBODY HAVE ACCESS TO BIOGARD NATURALIS-L, please contact me if we can arrange us... :wave:

Prices varying a lot according to countries, in Hungary it is really cheap ! In Uk really more expensive but I don't know her price in Netherlands or Belgium...

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