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Boobsto

RFX-1 AGRA-WOOL

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HI all thx for help :)

 

I would like a person to give me a advice to water with this RFX-1 product at the end of day RFX- and still wet

 

On my offer a kind of mapito call RFX-1 AGRA-WOOL, I'm with an IWS system 36 pots Flood and Drain, I really have a big problems after 3 days the ec moves a lot, look my setup:

 

CRITIKAL KUSH BARNEY FARMS FLO + 40

 

IWS 36 POTS FLOOD AND DRAIN SYSTEMS

 

PH : 5.7

 

EC : 150

 

TEMPERATURE : DAY 25/ NIGHT 19

 

HUMIDITY : 40

 

4 WATERING PER DAY OF 30 MINUTE

 

How much watering a day do I have to do for my 36 plants?

 

Some tell me once every 3 days these true?

 

If I make several rises of water in the day it does not help for the oxygen?

 

I have to leave some time for the plants to eat EC that stays in the pots?

 

With each drop you think that I must add again product for arrival at the initial EC?

 

I search much especially in the topic of escobar but I can not find anything you can please help me

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pic can tell more then 1000 words

 

but 3 day watering up to 1/3 of the pots usually OK with most of the pitos

the first week u can water from top... till roots are at the bottom of ur pot of crate..

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Hi again :)

 

shiskaberry savior :

 

It looks like mapito but not mapito

 

hidronesia

 

I can not adjust 1/3 in water, usually I fill the pots with 11/L pots, what is the difference?

 

 

Can you tell me why 3 days?

 

Do we wait until the pots dry?

 

Is there a difference between 3 times a day and 1 time every 3 days?

 

If I understand my EC consumption problem comes from the fact that plants do not have time to consume their food, and these for that my EC goes up then ???

 

Thanks you very much for help me :)

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This is all basic hydro growing knowledge... read a shitload of growreports and you will know the answers to your questions, and the logic behind those answers.

 

Try googling "racker mapito" for a lot of useful info on how to grow on hydro.

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I have already seen the forum page several times, you think I have come here without looking?

 

The answers to my questions are not displayed, the answers are sometimes very light, I seek answers firm.

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Without pictures this topic is completely useless... the plants tell u exactly what is wrong, so without seeing the plants the answers in this topic are based on blind guessing..

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The problem is that the plants go well, these only my EC tray that has problems, it goes away after 3 days it no longer wants to eat ...

 

And I end up with overgrazing.

 

Example:

 

Watering 4 times a day 30 minutes

 

1 DAY EC 150 4x

 

2 DAY EC 137 I increase my ec a 150 with only additions A + B 4x

 

3 DAY EC 148 4x

 

4 DAY EC 147 4x

 

5 DAY EC 152 Increase 4x

 

6 DAY: I wash all my pots in clear water

 

7 DAY: She eats without problems ...

 

I water very much?

 

I am post in photo comming soon .

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What are you pumping into the table, and what comes back?

Ph and ec values.

You can tell by looking at the ingoing and return values whats happening inside the pots.

 

Search those "racker" topics i told u to. In his reports he explains exactly what those values mean, and how to interprete them to your situation.

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I always take measurements in my water from the tank 400 liters

 

When I take the RFX-1 foam in my hands and compress it to get out of the water I sometimes measure it and has 1.40 and sometimes 1.90

 

People can not answer a simple question, if I leave longer without watering the plant absorbs the nutrients that remain in the pots?

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Depends on what the ph values are doing... that why i keep telling you to read up on stuff... so you know what your meters are telling you.

 

Plants cannot take in their nutrients if the ph/ec balance is wrong, and that problem gets worse every time you add more nutes/acid to your system.

 

 

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Hi.

 

i am not experienced in mapito but have decent hydroponic insight.

 

I would not keep adding nutes everytime the ec drops. The ec will fall as the nutes are taken up. As long as ph is in good range and plants are healthy ( they are not asking for anything ) then all is well. When the rez level drops, i would only add whats missing ( h20 ) and correct ph. At most, if adding nutes, i would add at a rate of 25% for a topup, just to replace the most vital minerals used at any particular stage of growth. To add, i would usually top up after around 7 days with a nute boost. Anytime before would just be plain water.

 

i also found reading ec in my aero setups was not a necessity. I gave only what they needed and stayed ontop of my ph. As long as feeds are within recommended range of dilution, all should go smoothly.

 

I hope this is of some use to you :)

 

best vybez

 

ddb

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Thanks for your reply guys, so for you, when the ec drop example:

 

150 drop to 137 you do not touch the EC?

 

I always knew that we had to adjust the fertilizer soup every day to the level of the day before.

 

I look at the pots today, it and still wet, when I press the foam in my hand this one still has water.

 

I calculated the EC of this water pressed it and of: 147 EC.

 

My fertilizer tank: 147 EC

 

The ph and good it and 5.9

 

What do you think about it ?

 

So the plant does not yet eat the fertilizers that are in stock in the RFX-1 foam?

 

Now I would water 1 time every 3 days, but this will affect my yield?

 

I find that since I stop watering the plants stagnates.

 

 

BUDS 2

BUDS ALL

BUDS 1

BUDS 3

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In my aero runs, if the ec dropped from (for e.g.) 1.4 to 1.2, i would not increase nutes to raise this unless after a period of a week. After a week, i would add 25-50% of the initial nute amount, and finish with a complete rez change after a further 7 days.

 

with ec readers, they don't tell you how much of any particular mineral is suspended in the h20 with regards to ppm. Just an overall of total nutrient value. This is why i would advise not to top up everytime the ec moves. You may be adding more elements that are not used during that time leading to an overabundance of any one particular element.

 

in a good rez, the ec should slowly fall whilst ph rises. Whilst the ph goes up through the correct range, all available nutes needed should become available throughout their ph range. With that said, i would aim to set the rez at around 5.5-5.6 and allow it to rise slowly after being stabilised, to around 6.2. This way, they get what they need and when you do eventually raise the ec and set the ph with a rez topup, they should have another dose of the nutes they had access to when the rez was initially set.

 

i will say again though, i dont know much about mapito or whether or not it comes with nutes in the medium so my info relates to rez and ec mainly. Not too sure how many times you should flood but there are some members here who can point you in the right direction :)

 

Best vybez

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Thanks DR DON

 

Thanks to you the friend I also seek the right direction, it must really be that a people who used this damn RFX-1 comes to help me ...

 

You are probably right concerning the addition of fertilizer in the water tank, I think it is necessary to wait at least 4 days before adding fertilizer again.

 

For the ph I do exactly as you except that I do not drop to more than 5.6 and I let go up to 6

 

I really need to know if the nutrients are consumed by the plant even if I stop watering.

 

I ask myself the question about the well made of such a substrate because it comes down to saying that these like soil .

 

Hydro = yield = a lot of water, if I water like soil does not affect the yield?

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i used rfx on table ebb and flo and i watered crates every 3 days.

no matter how wet it was or not, lol. you are overthinking things.

(although that's not a bad thing per sé).

 

plants look ok, don't go all johnny on them, hehe ;) good luck, ebst.

 

giphy.gif

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I am with Santero on this one, long long time ago i grew up with canna yes but that was a century ago lol.

 

Simplicity is the key. Stay sharp and don't overdue or react. They will thrive.

 

Good luck!

 

Pg

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Thank you guys you warm me up!

 

I water now once every 3 days.

 

I rectify the fertilizer level once a week.

 

I spoke by mail with the producers of this product are very cool, it also answered my question here is a transcription of their advice:

 

 

 

The substrate must not be too dry.

 

By lifting a pot, you know if you need watering.

 

You can prepare a wathertank with a pH of 5.5 - 5.6 and an EC of 1.3

 

For first approximately 2 to 3 liters of water over a pot RFX-1.

 

Then fill the pot with the RFX-1, put the pot into the pot and again 2-3 liters of water over the pot.

 

The pH value will fluctuate with new use of RFX-1 for the first 2 weeks.

 

Then it will be stable and you can use the correct value of about 5.7.

 

You should not increase the nutritional value, otherwise the plant will get too much food.

 

You better go after each week with tenths up.

 

How often you want to give water to the plants, you can decide for yourself.

 

At ebb and flow systems you do not need to give water daily.

 

Wait until the pot is lighter, but not completely dry.

 

Some growers give a lot of water once in three days, the other grows three times a day but then water.

 

This depends on how you want to grow the plant.

 

If you want to equal the side branches of the hand branch, you have to add a little water several times a day.

 

The plant wil therefore noth that high, but full of flowers.

 

If the temperature is too low in the room and the pot is too wet, it will be rot at the stem / trunk.

 

The salts do not accumulate in the pot.

 

If the value is too high, you can get it, the value back down.

 

When used properly, this is not necessary.

 

 

 

Advantages of the Agra-Wool products are:

 

 

 

Organic binder.

 

Better rooting

 

Excellent growth performance.

 

Sustainable.

 

Better for the environment.

 

No skin irritation.

 

Our products are not made from recycled materials, but completely new.

 

As a result, no contamination of disease or fungi from the outside.

 

Our wool is made of basalt, which is volcanic rock.

 

And a formaldehyde-free binder is used (ECOSE-technique).

 

This allows the roots to experience no growth resistance, making them more resistant to pests and diseases.

 

The substrate behaves as a full substrate and is better than the regular yellow wool.

 

Our RFX-1 is wrapped with three bags, compressed in a box.

 

That's 3 X 80 liters in a box of 60cm X 60cm X 40cm and a weight of 10 Kg.

 

So 240 liters in a moving box.

 

 

I hope I have fully answered your questions so you have a lot of growing success with our products.

 

Sido Fokkema

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@Boobsto... why are u so confused? and why after 40+ flowering day?

if the pictures really from ur garden... i really dont understand u... those plants looks great!!!

 

dont believe anyone who claim one medium is better than other

hidro doenst means more water consumption than soil needs, (where did u read it?)

and hidro not equal high yield at all, just an opportunity to give the right food at the right time...

I know soil growers who gets near 1k/m2

 

 

read ur plants... and do what they like

 

and please make a picture from the bottom of ur plants... top of ur pots

if u really need real answers...

we need details about flood height, pot size, number of plants/m2, pre veg time, light sourceW/m2, room temperature, RH%, CO2 level etc after we can help u to tell u the frequency.

tap water EC and also important:)

if u still dont believe every 3rd day and 1/3 flooding

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Media and style should be chosen for reasons other than what one thinks but what they know. Only in marketing will it say one media is better than another as this can only be true based on situation/environment.

 

I have seen greatness from about every grow style I have seen. If you want to grow yields at quality with consistency you must have this knowledge and capability.

  1. Plant Environment,
  2. Plant Physiology,
  3. Light Spectrum,
  4. Plant nutrition,
  5. Media care (media environment for soil, soiless and hydroponics or at least for the media you use)

If you do not know this or seek to genuinely learn this, you will always be led or you will stay in a comfort zone and be happy where you are. Other than those who stay in comfort zone, those others will typically be wanting.

 

Just get the basics of that, your world will open up bigger and wiser.

Hempyfan,

Jah Bless!

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@hidronesie

 

Thank you for your reply, I am a person who is really looking for optimization, I am trying to learn I am a passionate about culture.

 

It true that my plants its good on the photos, but I also have a lot of worry, for me how it grows it are delayed

 

Why after +40 days, because the EC of my water tank starts to do things not normal.

 

I think I have had accumulation because I water 4 times a day

 

And now that I have made a fertilizer rate lowered it begins to have deficiency.

 

So far 4 watering a day does not cause me too much worry but for a while I feel that plants do not go healthy ...

 

I posted all the details of the culture room higher up in my former post you can check ...

 

Since I spent 1 watering every 3 days I feel that the plants are better.

 

But now that I have made a fertilizer rate lowered it begins to have deficiency.

 

These very complicated to change balls of clays has the type foam mapito watering and not at all the same.

 

I nevertheless found that after 3 days, the foam was drastically dry, I watered all after you think I must water a little before when these wet?

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I will be nice.

 

You water even when wet because of Oxygen and roots.

 

If plants are showing hard signs of being wet let go 4 days but its about air, not wetness and fertilzer. Once your roots equal out for size of plant and establish they will shoot hard. If they are not ask yourself why and work from their.

 

Now I see you say you water 4 times a day and go against standard mapito advice. When you feed from bottom you raise the EC column in our media. This is why we do not let dry to much as the EC can spike as it gets concentrated in middle to upper ends of the mapito. You risk much by overly frequent watering in both the now and later perspectives of the grow.

 

What the fuck do you want from us??? If you play I know better, well be better or do what is standard and then work from their.

 

You say you want optimal but you do not know what optimal. Do you really want me to yell at more??? I wont but say this.

Learn the following:

  1. Grown Environment
  2. Plant Physiology (life cycle)
  3. Light Spectrum (what does what and how and when it affects the plant)
  4. Plant nutrition
  5. Media environment

Learn that, then come back and talk optimal, otherwise you only desire it but blindly seek it. Grow shops welcome this, I do not.

 

I be nice again:

  • Mapito is not new regardless how new it is to you. To go off the beaten track will lead to problems almost for sure. Learn first an appreciation and then go off on your way.
  • Every 3 days feed = good air to root ratio with EC. To frequent or too far in between you are not that smart.

Mapito is an unforgiving media but can produce spectacular crops. However, this learning curve can take a minute and few continue past a bump. The grass is not necessarily greener unless you choose this medium for reasons other than what one perceives as most optimal.

 

I have seen side by side with mapito and soil and = simlar ends in the right competency. Sannie himself was early in saying to me this. The media should match your grow situation. Working that method best = best practice.

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Thank you for your intervention hempyfan

 

I understand what you mean, and I have noticed.

 

After 3 days of watering the next day my plants get better.

 

The problem and that the RFX-1 was very dry after 3 days, then these although it silk as dry?

 

I think water it once every 24 hours and the right solution in my situation.

 

I will see if after 2 days the plants are healthy.

 

Today I rinse the pots from the top with clear water.

 

Tomorrow I think watering with fertilizer has an EC 1.6

 

And I program to water 1 times every 24 Hours.

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When you watered from top, you rinsed EC down into root zone that you may not wanted to do.

 

If this did not flush out your risk burning your plants with high EC.

 

If low ec still than you did effectively remove the EC in the media. I am unfamiliar with your specific media so I cannot offer a more pointed direction but I ask this, did the plant show thirsty or is it just the media was dry? If you was to lift it was it heavy or just light and yea we need some water.

 

Regardless of what my or anyone else's dumb ass near a keyboard give an opinion that trumps (referred to trump card, in cards) what the plant tells you. Look at the leaves and such and if she is happy. Just do what is or what was making her happy. Sometimes we listen to much to others and not enough to her.

 

Media wise you need an oxygen, humidity and nutritional balance. As long as the media truly is drying that fast, you might have to adjust EC and maybe bit of PH to stay in range a bit but I am unsure this is issue. I would say it appears your running it more like a grodan cube but chopped up than this being a true mapito.

 

Find a balance either bottom feeding or top feeding and keep with that. Generically I think you will fine. If the plants are wanting a bit give them a foliar feed and be sure to give a water soluble calcium with fulvic acid in the foliar spray.

 

As soon as the plants finds it feet and balance is found I suspect the plant will take off nicely!

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if it is a rockwool you can run feed every day It is designed to carry the proper amount of o2 and water but if you were crushing it in your hands the properties are altered making it more like compacted soil.

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