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On 2/17/2020 at 7:22 PM, oldschoolsg said:

Looking nice :) 

Good luck with the end of flowering :verrygood

Thanks. I'll really need the luck when it comes time to put them all on the scale. 

 

14 hours ago, hidronesia said:

Very nice show!

keep them green!!!

Thanks sir. I'm trying my best, seems to be working for now. 

 

I cleaned out the compressor of the AC since I noticed the cooling was not as strong. And I swear to god, I have never seen so much dust in my life. Take that statement seriously, because I have been living in a metro city in a country where air quality in metros is among the poorest in the world. After blowing the living hell out of 10 a/c compressor units, I looked like someone who had decided to bathe themselves with the contents of an ashtray - covered from head to toe in charcoal coloured flecks of dust. The water that came off of my hands upon washing them was opaque. I have never felt like such a filthy creature in my life.

But hey, at least the a/c is back to top notch function. I am going to have to do this every month. I've ordered a full body suit, like the ones people wear in labs when dealing with pathogens, and I've also ordered an air mask - the type of air masks military agents wear when they're crawling through a bomb zone. 

 

The humidity is something I underestimated. The capacity of the A/C to remove the moisture from the air is something I overestimated. I'm barely managing to keep the humidity in the flowering room below 65%, which is definitely a bit dicey. I hope I don't experience losses due to mould, but will not have more money to put into additional air cons and dehumidifiers until the next round. 

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Is this first grow out a from-seed run, with pheno hunting?

Then, ... running cuts from the best phenos?

How many beans do you pop per strain, and how many phenos selected from each?

Just curious on the numbers game to find the best.

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1 hour ago, Maria sanchez said:

Is this first grow out a from-seed run, with pheno hunting?

Then, ... running cuts from the best phenos?

How many beans do you pop per strain, and how many phenos selected from each?

Just curious on the numbers game to find the best.

Bingo. So I'd have liked more numbers, but lost 1/3 of my seedlings, long story. 

I am fine whether I find 1 keeper totally or 10. I just want the biggest yielder, the most potent, and the most tasty. Those will be my 3 cuts

I have around 75 plants. 14 amnesia, 13 critical jack, 4 critical +, 4 critical plus 2.0, about 30 are kolossus, 10 are random

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4 hours ago, elchupacabra said:

Bingo. So I'd have liked more numbers, but lost 1/3 of my seedlings, long story. 

I am fine whether I find 1 keeper totally or 10. I just want the biggest yielder, the most potent, and the most tasty. Those will be my 3 cuts

I have around 75 plants. 14 amnesia, 13 critical jack, 4 critical +, 4 critical plus 2.0, about 30 are kolossus, 10 are random

Ok. Sorry about the seedlings....

Hope you can find a few gems.

Good chance with the Ammie, Critical Jack and Kolossi!

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hello El,

in closed system the biggest enemy is high humidity,

opticlimate has pro4 15.000 water-cooled with inverter it can dehumidify when not cooling and has way bigger capacity than aircos..

also custom dehumidifiers compressors die very fast in growing environment because ideal temperature in flowering room if u give CO2 is over27 Celsius,

 on this temperature the pressure is too big in the compressor..

you will need some hotbox ( sulfur in it) for sure till you cant manage humidity... and a good fogger!!! full face mask etc... yes I know how you feel yourself in this gear hahah

but do think it is the best job on EartH:)

ps: around u cant u get some tested clones?

 

karma up

 

hidro

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1 hour ago, hidronesia said:

hello El,

in closed system the biggest enemy is high humidity,

opticlimate has pro4 15.000 water-cooled with inverter it can dehumidify when not cooling and has way bigger capacity than aircos..

also custom dehumidifiers compressors die very fast in growing environment because ideal temperature in flowering room if u give CO2 is over27 Celsius,

 on this temperature the pressure is too big in the compressor..

you will need some hotbox ( sulfur in it) for sure till you cant manage humidity... and a good fogger!!! full face mask etc... yes I know how you feel yourself in this gear hahah

but do think it is the best job on EartH:)

ps: around u cant u get some tested clones?

 

karma up

 

hidro

Hi Hidro,

opticlimate looks like it's designed more for use in climates where heating and cooling are both required? For me it's purely for cooling. I need cooling and dehumidifying happening side by side.

I do not give CO2, so for me ideal temperature is somewhere around 23/24. 

 

The sulfur sounds horrible, I'd rather go hungry and buy a new dehumidifier to be honest. also, wouldn't the sulfur leave some residue on the flowers?

Also - there's no way in my country to get any thing even close to clones haha. But this next round I'll have tested clones. Tested and hatched by me.

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Hi

Love your workspace, I'm quite envious. You have your work cut out for you but I bet you love every minute. I hope this post is helpful and not redundant 

Is your humidity an issue lights on or only lights off?  If you don't have one, I would invest in a data logger that records temp, humd, and CO2. That way you know how the room shifts thru the day.  

Do your minisplits have a "dry" mode where they only dehumidify vs cool?  If so this could be an option for lights off although they don't have much more capacity vs a standalone dehumidifier. Not sure how much cooling your room needs during lights off.  Most of this depends on the heat load in your room.

RH would decrease if you increased your ambient temp. Maybe let the temps go to 27 degC.  

Also, sorry to hear about the outdoor air quality in your area. I'm sure you didn't expect that chore when were building the space. Do you use an emulsifier when you clean the condenser coils?  That might make thejob easier and maybe even keep them cleaner longer. Also, If you don't know, you need to clean the filter for the evaporator (inside) unit. They tend to load up quickly. 

If you do end up getting a new dehumidifier, look for a commercial unit that is designed for crawlspaces.  They have better components, and are meant to run continuously. But, they are usually 2-3x the cost. 

Trim

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6 hours ago, Trimmermuffin said:

Hi

Love your workspace, I'm quite envious. You have your work cut out for you but I bet you love every minute. I hope this post is helpful and not redundant 

Is your humidity an issue lights on or only lights off?  If you don't have one, I would invest in a data logger that records temp, humd, and CO2. That way you know how the room shifts thru the day.  

Do your minisplits have a "dry" mode where they only dehumidify vs cool?  If so this could be an option for lights off although they don't have much more capacity vs a standalone dehumidifier. Not sure how much cooling your room needs during lights off.  Most of this depends on the heat load in your room.

RH would decrease if you increased your ambient temp. Maybe let the temps go to 27 degC.  

Also, sorry to hear about the outdoor air quality in your area. I'm sure you didn't expect that chore when were building the space. Do you use an emulsifier when you clean the condenser coils?  That might make thejob easier and maybe even keep them cleaner longer. Also, If you don't know, you need to clean the filter for the evaporator (inside) unit. They tend to load up quickly. 

If you do end up getting a new dehumidifier, look for a commercial unit that is designed for crawlspaces.  They have better components, and are meant to run continuously. But, they are usually 2-3x the cost. 

Trim

Hey trim

I have way too much cooling requirements to run even an hour without air cons on. Dry mode isn't an option.

I have set the air conditioners to 22, they're never getting there so are on 24/7. 23-24 at the ac, and about 24 at 1.5m under the light.

I expected the chore of cleaning the condensers, I just didn't expect it quite so soon. I don't usually do the cleaning, I call a cleaning service, they send a guy over. Works without a problem for another few months usually. 

Perhaps I should increase the temperature that's not a bad idea...27 is warmer than I'd like though. Maybe I'll just set the ac up to 25, so it doesn't cross 27 under the lights. 

My current dehumidifiers are industrial grade. It's just a matter of volume of water to suck out. So I'll just have to keep getting one more till it's capable of keeping the room at 35% during flower in the relatively dry season. During monsoon, it will be 90% R/H outside so I will need a fair few.

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Pics from the 18th..

Amnesia in the background, just about finishing stretching. Critical Jack varieties in the foreground:

IMG_20200218_094800.thumb.jpg.7627339f9b4cdea0e8a7d7bfa7b34b34.jpg

Here is my super sativa critijack:

IMG_20200218_094811_1.thumb.jpg.2cbf5efd972ca8f4b11ddc5b84d47983.jpg

And here's one that's pretty damn different. 

IMG_20200218_094805_1.thumb.jpg.6a6abbd033dfc49da155dc6dede81bc6.jpg

Definitely work to be done in this entire critical line as far as selection goes. Also very easy to control height of critijack and critiplus. Not at all for amnesia.

Best vibes

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On 2/20/2020 at 11:00 PM, hidronesia said:

 

 

you will need some hotbox ( sulfur in it) for sure till you cant manage humidity... and a good fogger!!! full face mask etc... yes I know how you feel yourself in this gear hahah

but do think it is the best job on EartH:)

hidro

Hidro - if I was to use a sulphur burner, I'm guessing I would have to turn off the air compressors (air pumps) while it's running? Otherwise, I guess the Sulphur Dioxide would go through the air pump, dissolve in the water, and mess up with the reservoir and lower the pH?

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I second Hidro on the sulfur burner.

Yes, you want to run them when the air is shut down.  

Before flowering or at flip.

Also in between grows.  

If you vent into another room and have that room also filtered, like a giant lung room, it is not so much a problem to shut down your grow if smell is the main concern while you run the burner.  Just be sure to do it at night or when people will less an issue in the area.

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Just now, Hempyfan said:

I second Hidro on the sulfur burner.

Yes, you want to run them when the air is shut down.  

Before flowering or at flip.

Also in between grows.  

If you vent into another room and have that room also filtered, like a giant lung room, it is not so much a problem to shut down your grow if smell is the main concern while you run the burner.  Just be sure to do it at night or when people will less an issue in the area.

I am not even remotely concerned about the smell others will experience. What I am concerned about is the sulfur dioxide getting sucked into the air pumps that feed the air stones, and my reservoir pH falling. I assume that would happen if the air is filled with oxides of sulfur. 

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Namaste,Chupa !

it does look damn nice inside your Warehouse :tu  millions of buds there........

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I need to open up the discussion about LEDs vs HPS vs CMH for a large size grow like this one. In the possibility that expansion is considered, I would really like to move to LEDs next time. This heat is going to be a toasty problem going forward and needs to be addressed without additional cooling. I am hearing more and more about CMH and that sounds like a good potential option. However, if a 630w CMH has the same thermal output and footprint as a 1000w hps, it doesn't solve my problem of heat. Power draw is not a big concern, but heat is a bit of a tough issue to deal with without going overboard and attracting attention. Using 24kw of LEDs in the place of 24kw of HPS sounds like it could be a good idea to save me some trouble with cooling.

I know i'm being generic when I say "LEDs". I'm thinking of something like the fluence spydrx/gavita 1700 type of LED. I wouldn't be buying the branded ones, just duplicates from china. Not cheap duplicates - same parts and components, but reasonably less expensive and easier for me to handle procurement, shipping, and customs, as I have a friend with a logistics contact there.

i've also been doing a lot of research into plant spectrums. A man named Bruce Bugbee caught my attention (I mean, he showed up in my suggested videos on youtube, heh). This guy is a gem of knowledge. I've just got a small space, maybe a total of 75 sqft of real grow space at most, and I want to try and use 3 spaces of 5x5 to test the results out in terms of yield and quality.

Any suggestions on lighting choices, specifics? Considering that it's going to be implemented on a large scale?

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I am not real educated in a lot of these things but I do know if you are looking to solve heat issues, LEDs are the way to go. It dropped my temps over 20 degrees, I had to throw a 600 watt back in to keep the temps up. lol

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19 minutes ago, gardenartus said:

I am not real educated in a lot of these things but I do know if you are looking to solve heat issues, LEDs are the way to go. It dropped my temps over 20 degrees, I had to throw a 600 watt back in to keep the temps up. lol

haha I wish I could have those problems. It would be amazin to grow indoors in a dry climate that was around 15-18°C outdoors. Add humidity if needed, lights take care of heating. dreams, dreams

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3 hours ago, elchupacabra said:

haha I wish I could have those problems. It would be amazin to grow indoors in a dry climate that was around 15-18°C outdoors. Add humidity if needed, lights take care of heating. dreams, dreams

actually led do create less heat that hid but still some. I've heard ideal temps for led is 25 

that would save you a lot of money in the long run keeping in mind the cost to operate vs much less cooling.

led is the future of growing indoors

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18 hours ago, oldschoolsg said:

actually led do create less heat that hid but still some. I've heard ideal temps for led is 25 

that would save you a lot of money in the long run keeping in mind the cost to operate vs much less cooling.

led is the future of growing indoors

I totally agree with you. I just need to find my sweet spot and see how to use it optimally with enough penetration

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18 hours ago, oldschoolsg said:

actually led do create less heat that hid but still some. I've heard ideal temps for led is 25 

that would save you a lot of money in the long run keeping in mind the cost to operate vs much less cooling.

led is the future of growing indoors

I'm not sure if COBs are the way for me or quantum boards or something like the fluence spyder. 

Now that I've got a PPFD meter, it should be easier to make qualitative measurements about light performance at different levels of the canopy.

Very disappointed that I can't measure far red and far blue. I'm surprised that despite the research, PAR continues to be defined as 400-700nm as opposed to 350nm-750nm. 

I wonder how beneficial it would be to supplement my 1000w hps lights each with 40w of blue light. HPS has 4% blue light, I'm sure adding more would help contain stretch. 

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5 hours ago, elchupacabra said:

I'm not sure if COBs are the way for me or quantum boards or something like the fluence spyder. 

Now that I've got a PPFD meter, it should be easier to make qualitative measurements about light performance at different levels of the canopy.

Very disappointed that I can't measure far red and far blue. I'm surprised that despite the research, PAR continues to be defined as 400-700nm as opposed to 350nm-750nm. 

I wonder how beneficial it would be to supplement my 1000w hps lights each with 40w of blue light. HPS has 4% blue light, I'm sure adding more would help contain stretch. 

I looked really hard at the Spyders before they changed hands, nothing but good reviews on them, same with Illumitex, think they're both made in Austin.  

LED's will help your stretch, generally, and your buds will be more compact.   I switched from HPS 600's a few years ago, running Platinum 600's, very pleased, solves a bunch of issues.   The learning curve was a bit more than I expected, but I was running hydro at my switch, which is much less forgiving than soil.  Hardest part was getting the nutrients dialed in, usually less, but not always, kind of strain dependent.  LED's can make plants mimic all kinds of crazy symptoms because they are so efficient, they drive plants nutrient uptake differently.  If I'd been running Octopots at the switch, I don't think I'd even have noticed. 

Yield under LED's is as good, or better, flowering times are definitely shorter by about a week, WAY cheaper, no cooling fans, no bulb changes.  I started supplementing my HPS with Hortilux Power Veg for the added UV, made a noticeable difference on resin production.  No need on LED's, all the good ones include it now.  I can't keep up, so many LED, CMH, new ones everyday.   

Looks like you've got a heck of a lot of work ahead of you,  in a good way. all the best.     

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Don’t do sulphur burns later in flower as the plants will take on a sulphur taste , week 2/3 at the latest followed up by a low ph’ed rinse with water . 

As far as heat and humidity if your able to extract for 15 min every 3 hours that the lights are on this will help to lower heat and humidity . 

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5 hours ago, dieseldog381 said:

I looked really hard at the Spyders before they changed hands, nothing but good reviews on them, same with Illumitex, think they're both made in Austin.  

LED's will help your stretch, generally, and your buds will be more compact.   I switched from HPS 600's a few years ago, running Platinum 600's, very pleased, solves a bunch of issues.   The learning curve was a bit more than I expected, but I was running hydro at my switch, which is much less forgiving than soil.  Hardest part was getting the nutrients dialed in, usually less, but not always, kind of strain dependent.  LED's can make plants mimic all kinds of crazy symptoms because they are so efficient, they drive plants nutrient uptake differently.  If I'd been running Octopots at the switch, I don't think I'd even have noticed. 

Yield under LED's is as good, or better, flowering times are definitely shorter by about a week, WAY cheaper, no cooling fans, no bulb changes.  I started supplementing my HPS with Hortilux Power Veg for the added UV, made a noticeable difference on resin production.  No need on LED's, all the good ones include it now.  I can't keep up, so many LED, CMH, new ones everyday.   

Looks like you've got a heck of a lot of work ahead of you,  in a good way. all the best.     

So I'm not a brand person when it comes to LEDs; the components are what matter, from what I understand, and as long as those are on point, I guess it shouldn't matter whether it's fluence or illumitex or anyone else. 

I did switch from hps to cob led indoors, and while it did save me a lot of power, I was always a step behind on the learning curve. I just couldn't get the same numbers off of them as I could with HPS. I found out later that I was keeping them way too close and when I did another round in a friend's bathroom I pulled about 1g/w with a 4x100w (400w) Vero setup.

And yes, I have an truckload of work cut out for me, in fucking deed. 

I may have to build a new RnD space to test these lights. I figure testing 1 of each doesn't tell me much. I need to test like 4 rows, side by side, each with 3 of each light. Hps vs CMH vs Led1 vs Led2. Led1 and Led2 are just different types of led tech. Maybe quantum board vs fluence style bars.

The research I've seen is all congruent and seems to suggest that 630wCMH blows 1000w hps out of the water. Waiting to try this as it's just a replacement, no learning curve. ;)

Best Vibes

El chupa

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5 hours ago, shiskaberry savior said:

Don’t do sulphur burns later in flower as the plants will take on a sulphur taste , week 2/3 at the latest followed up by a low ph’ed rinse with water . 

As far as heat and humidity if your able to extract for 15 min every 3 hours that the lights are on this will help to lower heat and humidity . 

Thanks, that taste issue was one I was concerned about, as well as the res change. 

Heat and humidity: extraction is not tooo helpful because it's 32-33°C outside, and about 70% RH. I literally have the centrifugal fans off right now.

I'm controlling any mould that is creeping up in the room on the floors or walls by spraying it with dilute phosphoric acid. Far, far more effective than bleach. But would advise the use of a gas mask, it's strong. And probably a good idea to toss the bottle afterwards.

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“I found out later that I was keeping them way too close“

Oh, wow, I’d forgot about this.  I had the same problems, raised them up high as I could, problem solved.    
 

 

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8 hours ago, dieseldog381 said:

“I found out later that I was keeping them way too close“

Oh, wow, I’d forgot about this.  I had the same problems, raised them up high as I could, problem solved.    
 

 

Tell me about it man. I saw so many threads on opengrow and elsewhere talking about how awesome it was that we could keep the plants inches away from those COBs. So I did it. Never worked optimally, but didn't really show blatant signs of failure. Just slower growth. I moved them closer to light, no deterioration, but no improvement. I was puzzled for a while. 

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